I have replaced the rear wheel bearings on a 1990 mitsi lancer it has those crush nuts on the axles.How tight should they be done up.When i undone them they felt like they were done right up to end of the thread hard up to the axle if that makes any sense.
twink19,
Dec 2, 9:13pm
up tight,there should be a groove in the axle, tap the soft end of the nut down to lock in place
typhoon666,
Dec 2, 9:17pm
The axle is just a standard threaded one it has no groove in it and it has no washer it is like the nut is the washer to.
typhoon666,
Dec 2, 9:19pm
I have a workshop manual and it shows the axle type with the groove thisone has no groove
mrfxit,
Dec 2, 9:25pm
ONLY . tight enough to take the slack out Take them as far as you really have to but ONLY the slack in the bearing movement side play
typhoon666,
Dec 2, 9:29pm
Thanks i will give that a go
mrfxit,
Dec 2, 9:34pm
I do this fairly often with fwd cars that have failed a rear wheel bearing for being loose. Off with the cap & locks/ nip up the bearing ONLY. as much as it really neesd & refit locks/caps. Back for a wof pass no worrys & never give any more trouble. Do it WITH the wheel bolted on so that you can get some true leverage on the hub for sideways play testing.
I really have to say >>>> ONLY <<<< or you will get the exactly the same problem as ppl who fit brand new bearings & tighten them up too far.
(overheating bearings)
mike107,
Dec 3, 3:47am
Do it up FT!
mrfxit,
Dec 3, 3:54am
Yea great way to get it to overheat & seize = 1 dead tyre & possibly smashed car.
crzyhrse,
Dec 3, 4:19am
If you mean to the end of the thread, unlikely.
Tapered roller bearings such as these should be done up only enough to take the play out of the assembly plus a light preload and no more. Then crush the round edge of the nut into the groove in the axle.
I hope you replaced the cups too and seated them firmly.
typhoon666,
Dec 3, 7:51am
Ya have seated the bearings sweet they were both the same size inner and outer it just does not have a groove in the axle anywere for the nut to crush into.
mugenb20b,
Dec 3, 7:56am
On my old '89 Lancer, the nut had to be very tight. It didn't have conventional taper roller bearings. There was a metal sleeve separating the two bearings.
crzyhrse,
Dec 3, 8:07am
And no hole through the stub for a cage and split pin!
jmma,
Dec 3, 8:12am
Tapered roller bearings or ball bearings with spacer!
the-lada-dude,
Dec 3, 8:08pm
timken taper bearing are torqued up to remove play as mrfixit suggests. the torque is hard top measure and the " feel " comes with experience, luckily there's some give and take, but i always err to to loose side. these bearings always have a method of securing the adjusting / retaining nut. usually a castellated nut and split pin. from your description typhoontempest, you've got plain roller bearings, and as mugenb said there should be a spacer ( but not necessarily ) between the bearings to take the retaining nut torque and preload the bearings. my guess is 50+/- lb / ft & locktite.
crzyhrse,
Dec 4, 2:29am
Absolutely necessary to use a spacer if running deep groove ball bearings - they aren't designed to take axial preload.
However, he said above he replaced cups anyway.
jmma,
Dec 4, 2:32am
Can't see where he said he replaced cups!
crzyhrse,
Dec 4, 3:05am
You're right. I must have read a little into that because he didn't ask 'what are cups'. Perhaps he could clarify the type of bearing.
the-lada-dude,
Dec 4, 3:53am
its just gotta be ball bearing, as there is no lock'n devise is the wheel bearing a complete unit ! like front wheel drive bearing !
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