Question about torque converters

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ginga4lyfe, Dec 7, 10:56am
have been pricing up rings/main seals and small end bearings but one thing that no one has been able to tell me is whether or not its ok to just whip off the auto box with out disconnecting the converter from the flex plate, I did this with out knowing that you were "supposed" to remove it before separating the box from the engine, luckily this didnt damage the seal, (and apparently they generally dont on sw20 mr2's ), so will i have to disconnect the flex plate and torque while the box is still inplace! or will the seal be fine! oh thinking about this reminds me to price up half shaft seals. :S ( I gotta do the cambelt oil pump seal and water pump, so why not do the rings and the main seals as it is burning oil slightly at 250.000 kms :P )

NZTools, Dec 7, 5:43pm
It's a no-no. Always dissconnect the converter from the flywheel and leave it in the bell housing as you remove the trans/motor.

ginga4lyfe, Dec 7, 10:16pm
Awesome thanks, would I still need to drop the oil out of the transit this way!

mm12345, Dec 8, 2:17am
If you don't drop the oil out, then chances are half it will will drop out the axle holes on it's own anyway.
If the trans is facing even a little bit downhill when you split the engine/trans, the converter will fall out on to the ground.Just warning you.If it's from a reasonable height when this happens, try to get it to land on your foot to soften the fall.Broken feet heal for free - especially with ACC.Broken torque converters cost $.
You've seen the thread on the Caldina rear main seal, so you don't needa comment as to whether you should spend the $40 and 10 minutes of your time to replace the rear main seal any more.
I'm a bit perplexed as to why you'd be considering doing rings and a few other things on250,000km engine, even assuming that the oil burning is related to rings, not something else (likely).If it was a special/rare engine, or something you were doing mods on to make it something special, then yeah - go for your life and do a full recond.But a half-@rsed engine recondition job to patch up a few things seems a bit pointless if used engines with 1/2 the km are available at low cost.Sorry if I've got this wrong, but I suspect you should sit down and think hard about what you're doing before committing to it.

ginga4lyfe, Dec 8, 3:18am
well the compression tests seam fine and all , just when i was accelerating through the new tunnel thing through town i saw smoke out the rear view mirror, so i thought that it may be wise to do them when i get around to the cambelt and such, and i have been looking for a 4sfe engine, but dodsons dont have any and dont know when they will next have one , I just thought that if i could get rings for around 300 and a head gasket for 120 then it may be worth doing, the main seals will be done anyways newer engine or not along with the cambelt water pump and tentioner , the oil seal and the small end bearings were really only being priced up for the "just incase" scenario

this makes me wunna ask the next question though , Who else is a reputable place that can supply engines and such!

saki, Dec 8, 3:40am
Jeeze Ginga you at it again.

ginga4lyfe, Dec 8, 3:44am
Jeeze Saki, pointless input again!, yeah, I am, its called a Passtime

saki, Dec 8, 3:55am
very pointless Im afraid, but all my cars go ok.

ginga4lyfe, Dec 8, 3:59am
Oh thats nice.

NZTools, Dec 8, 4:08am
First things first. how much oil does it burn between oil changes!

saki, Dec 8, 4:12am
For the sake of your mentality give it up put it back together get out and have some fun summers here. holiday season starts soon. enjoy yourself.

ginga4lyfe, Dec 8, 4:14am
i only bought it 2 months ago and there was only a small amount of oil on the dipstick, I found a service reciept for it that dted the kms to about 10 thousand kms prior to the date that i purchased it, so id say its burning fairly well, the odd thing is though, its not leaking, and the sparkplugs dont show any fouling

ginga4lyfe, Dec 8, 4:15am
how about keeping your un-needed opinion to yourself, you only seem to slam what i do and i do not appreciate it

saki, Dec 8, 4:16am
Have you topped up the oil and checked the usage over km

saki, Dec 8, 4:17am
Now Now ginga take a chill pill.

ginga4lyfe, Dec 8, 4:17am
only been 700 kms or so since my last service, no level change as of yet

cuda.340, Dec 8, 4:17am
is saki the new john!

saki, Dec 8, 4:18am
How much oil is it consuming per 100 km

saki, Dec 8, 4:19am
Accordrding to ging I only pick on him.

ginga4lyfe, Dec 8, 4:28am
Possibly, I Just try to ignore silly crap, but sometimes its just gets annoying

NZTools, Dec 8, 4:34am
If it had a service 10,000 kms ago, and it was on the bottom of the dipstick, it has burnt abouit 1.5 litres.
Thats around $10 to $15 per 10,000 km in oil use.

Dont waste your time or your money.

mm12345, Dec 8, 4:40am
^^^^ what he said ^^^^

ginga4lyfe, Dec 8, 4:41am
Oh ok, i guess that makes sense then

skin1235, Dec 8, 9:39am
also ginga, remove the t/c now and fit it onto the g/box, take a good look down inside the t/c, you'll see there are lugs that have to engage on mating lugs in the front of the g/b, this is a very good reason to not leave it on the flexiplate - when you go to put it back together they will very likely not line up . and damage can occur
once you have them lined up and engaged, loop a small wire through a couple of the flexiplate mounts on the back of the t/c and tie it to the bellhousing so it cannot move out of engagement when you're refitting the box

skin1235, Dec 8, 9:41am
when you fire it up later you'll have to check the trans level and top it up, but it will only be a lt or so down, has approx 6 lt!, firing it up while a bit low will not harm it - just don't drive off to picton while it's low