Hey Jazz.. I39ve now got an 3903 nz new mkiv golf v5 5spd auto with 100km on the clock i must say i am very impressed i actually

I've now got an '03 NZ-new MkIV Golf V5 5spd auto with 100km on the clock - I must say I am very impressed! I actually prefer it to the '03 NZ-new GTi 5spd manual I had earlier! This one has absolutely no peeling of the interior plastics, however the faux wood door handle is all cracked like they all seem to do. The engine is very torquey down low and the noise it makes is actually pretty good too. The only thing I don't like is it seems to shake/vibrate a little at idle and will sometimes feel like it's hiccupping on power delivery around 2500-3000rpm - I assume it's because of the uneven layout of the engine. Fuel economy was not bad, averaged about 8L/100km driving back from Akl to Hamilton, but once back in the city it climed to about 11L/100km.

My gran has one of those V5 Golfs, it is absolutely smooth throughout the rev range, no rough spots/vibration etc.Maybe you've got something going on with yours!

it should be very smooth, That economy is about right for general driving,

Cheers for the update phillip. It will be interesting to see how you find the MK5 when you get hold of one, I find its just such a leap foward after the mk3/4.

I have my suspicions that the interior problems may actually be a bit unique to NZ in that the cause may be exposure to our uniquely high levels of U.V.

Its just a shot in the dark theory but would explain why some are affected and others are not. given some cars are shedded part/all their lives. Some older Fiats suffer the same problems here too.

I would tend to think the V5 may be running a bit off as well. Its a pity you don't have a decent diagnostics machine as even if there is no actual fault showing casting an eye over the fuel trim etc (especially recorded over a test run) usually gives some great clues as to where to look.

I agree that your economy sounds about right although perhaps a little on the high side on the open road. might be a little clue there especially given the rev range where you are noticing the hiccuping is not far off cruise rev's.

The V5 Golf was enormously well regarded when it came out I agree with what you are saying with regard to that and the GTI, both lovely cars and the V5 does carry a different kind of power and some advantages.

Another small niggly issue is sometimes when you're pulling out of an intersection the transmission doesn't quite have the right gear selected, and there's a bit of a delay until it gets its stuff sorted and then away it goes - mostly noticeable when you come into say a roundabout where you slow down considerably with no throttle, then get back on the throttle mid way through the roundabout to find it takes a split second longer to get going.

Otherwise a great car, really thrilled with the low down torque delivery.

Hmmm its hard to say without driving it but the transmission behaviour plus the funny running you described has me wondering about the Maf sensor etc. It may of course just be how it is but I think its worth looking into.

You know how to test a MAF sensor without a diagnostics machine aye!

nope - unfortunately Volkswagon is not a language I speak (fluently). I got by fine with my MkIII VR6 but thankfully the issues I had were straightforward.

Its pretty easy stuff, same deal for any car. Do you have a volt meeter with a needle as opposed to digital by any chance!

Obviously first thing to do is to give it a clean with proper maf sensor cleaner and see if the problems improve.

If you have an electronics fault in the sensor i.e a dry joint giving it a tap with the handle of a screwdriver while its idling will cause a change in engine note. I don't think this is the problem here though as it sounds like mostly its running O.K so more likely its just not quite reading accurate.

There are a number of ways of bench testing them but my personal favourite is to leave the sensor plugged into the car with the ignition on but the engine off. I do however unhook the sensor from the air ducting etc.

Then I piggyback the volt meter into the appropriate signal wires (look thes up) on the sensor and blow some shop air through it. I use a sneaky little adaptor with an air screw so I can vary the flow up and down. Then I watch for a nice even increase in voltage from the sensor as I apply more and more air.

Also you want to make sure the sensor is producing the correct range of voltage which is in the 0 - 5v range from memory.

Have a look on youtube there are bound to be some videos demonstrating this, its a very useful skill.

BigFatMat may have some more expert methods and info for you as well.

BTW, if you are heading over this way anytime I would be happy to try my OBD reader and software on it for you. I havn't tried my new gear on a VW so not sure how compatible it is with VAG-COM cars but it likely will work O.K.

If it works I find its usually really easy to diagnose an O2 sensor or MAF problem. I just set it to record all data then do a quick test drive and then its usually obvious from what the fuel trim is doing whether something is up or not.

Gear like mine is pretty inexpensive so if you have a laptop and a spare $100 (might not even have cost that) it might be a well worth while investment as you start working on newer and newer cars.

Here is a nice sicinct video giving you the gist of how I test them without using a scanner. This guy leaves it attached to the car and uses the engine speed to adjust the airflow, I prefer to use the compressor but the process is much the same. I also like to use an analouge volt meter if available as you can watch the trend of the needle a bit like a poor mans oscilloscope.
http://www.youtube.com/watch!v=nNpwk3qtZok

Speaking of oscilloscopes, if you happen across one at a flea market or something to $30 or so snavel it up. They are a great tool for checking all kinds of sensors. Don't be scared of it if you havn't used one before, there is plenty of info available on how to use one for checking car sensors, its pretty easy stuff.