I have a nz new rh drive pickup and trying to get some ideas on suspension. I've bought a series 3 jag front end and thinking of putting jag rear end as well. There is also a mustang front kit around that looks good and a solid diff in rear but again not too sure what diff. any ideas?
jmma,
Sep 29, 7:19am
I'm no expert on this, but it may pay to state what engine and trans are in it. (o:
lumpster,
Sep 29, 7:25am
350 with turbo 350
race_hemi,
Sep 29, 7:44am
I got one of these too, but the GMC version. Same/similar everything pretty much well except mine is probably rattier than yours. Gimme your dash .It don't matter what sorta motor you got in there - IRS Jag or any number of solid arses will get the job done on street rubber. Slicks is a different story. Want budget(ish) but plenty strong for the street . BW78. Get one out of a mid 90's coon. Want something to skite about but not really any stronger (in factory form) than the BW but twice as much $? Go with the 9 Inch. Going to go low? Be prepared to lose some deck depth. Your tray will be sitting 48mm above the chassis in OEM form. The OEM kickup given to you by Chebby is pathetic. Climb under and have a look. Start mucking around with them (the trucks) too much and the cert guy will be wanting copious quantities of boxing undertaken by you. Chassis warping boxing that is. There would be a time when you would want to be considering replicating the whole lot out of 50x150 RHS and building in the drop and anything else you wanted from the start. I'm doing mine at the moment but its got cobwebs on it, lol!
tony9,
Sep 29, 7:44am
You should be having this chat now with your certifier if you want to get it on the road.
bwg11,
Sep 29, 7:45am
I was about in 1957, can't remember any Chevy utes, only Holdens and Ford Mainlines. International and American Ford had 1 ton flat decks and some wellsides, Chevy may have done the same but I can't recollect any.
race_hemi,
Sep 29, 7:52am
I thought he was talking about a pickup. I'm sure there were some RHD ones around that were sold as new over here.
race_hemi,
Sep 29, 8:04am
There is a trader on here that has built RHS replica ones of these before. i think he's even advertised them on TM. I've seen one that he has done at his shop and they are cool pieces. He's a LVV Certifier also. His trader name is 'carwrecker' on here. He's given me some pointers on how to go about things. 1950's pickup chassis from any of the big 3 are pretty basic mate and easy to replicate outta RHS.
rick224,
Sep 29, 8:23am
My old man bought a 1956 pickup cost him 1300 pounds in 1956. He had his name down for it before the war. They where assembled in Petone. They never got the jigs right. The body's where awful. They were the last pickup assembled here. Cheers Rick.
lumpster,
Sep 29, 6:04pm
I've still got the paper work and the black plates for the truck. I think these were made in Canada. It's a proper rh drive made for NZ. Someone mentioned these were council vehicles
race_hemi,
Sep 29, 8:15pm
I'm going to convert mine to RHD. It got explained to me that this could be done in one of either two different ways; splice and dice the existing LHD dash or find one of the original RHD ones from a NZ new one. I'm handy with a cutoff wheel but I can see a lot of room for error if you don't know what you are doing. And i don't. So I have located a cab (local) that was new RHD (according to the current owner) which leads me to believe they could be had over here. I am going to purchase that and use its dash. You got a RHD one already? Go manual bro :)) A comment re your diff question . I have elected to go jag front and ford arse end. I have just not long ago brought in the rims i wanted to run from summitracing. I brought them in 2 at a time to ensure I slipped under the cap/limit. I brought in 2 different PCD rims to cater for my choices of axle. There'd be experts' out there that would say to just change the PCD on the jag IFS or the 9 inch axle. Ever seen what the behind of a jag front hub looks like? Lol! And changing the PCD from 4.5 to 4.75 on the ford item is not as easy (or cheap $$) as it sounds on the face of it when you get down to the nitty gritty of the matter. If i was going to carry a spare - I'd either carry two or have a dual lug setup. These are some of the things you need to be thinking about re this stuff. Rest assured though mate . while your thing goes up a dollar a day in value - 99% of the turds discussed on this MB will be dropping a like amount.
daryl14,
Sep 30, 6:33am
If you are trying to lower the thing into the weeds, I know that the rodders go for either narrowing the jag front or getting a narrower cross member from the likes of a torana, or as you say, the Mustang kit.
race_hemi,
Sep 30, 7:28am
How is narrowing a front end going to get it to go lower?
daryl14,
Oct 3, 6:00am
Seriously? So you can stuff the front wheels up under the guards and you can still steer.
bbboo,
Oct 3, 6:27am
HI, I also have a rhd 56 p/up and used a whole HX Holden panelvan front chassis clip, same width as chev chassis, just cut off and welded in with gussets, standard this gives a 2" drop from chev height. Also used holden power steer etc parts are easy as everyone carries them, just another option.
esky-tastic,
Oct 3, 6:53am
Go with the HX front end, easy to 'glue' on.
IF you can find one that is, they're getting rarer these days.
And a 9" rear-end.
Just remember to change the HZ stud pattern to Ford and use 1/2" studs.
race_hemi,
Oct 4, 7:27am
Haha, too much time reading hotrod books bro and not enuff time owning a truck. They slot in without narrowing (lol!) them any, and a fair few people will slip in a 50 x 50mm piece of box between the bottom of the chassis rail and mounting surface of the Jag IFS in an effort to get a bit of ride height back.
race_hemi,
Oct 4, 7:29am
What sorta frontend do they have in them . are they a sub frame like in the sedans or are they a full chassis like in the utes?
Wow that link was good and the truck was amazing but i won't be going that flash i want a daily driver and some fun.
race_hemi,
Oct 4, 10:07pm
Hey, I just went out and measured (approx' but wayyy suffice for ball parking) measured the OEM front end as it sits on the factory 1957 GMC Pickup chassis. Its 1800mm from outside of tire to outside of tire. The wheels are OEM ones. The Jag frontend with OEM Jag rims on is 1630mm from outside of tire to outside of tire. There is heaps of clearance and this is how guys get those deep dish old school rims on their frontends and still able to plonk the whole caboodle down in the weeds.
race_hemi,
Oct 4, 10:14pm
Another thing too . sometimes you will hear about dudes using HQ - WB ute chassis's. Its a way of getting all tried and proven HD Holden gear under your ride in one go but there is a catch going this way, several actually. But the main one is to ask anyone purporting this as the way to go to explain to you what they had to do in the cab step area, to you and see if you are ok with it.
bbboo,
Oct 4, 10:43pm
Panel vans have a full chassis but could use a sedan as where you cut them is the same on both front ends. I just had a donar HX panel van.
race_hemi,
Mar 25, 6:39pm
Ahh yeah. I know what both look like and they are the same at the front aye. Someone i know put his cab on an HQ ute chassis. Have you seen how wide the utes get when they flare out from front end? Mate . you end up with Holden Chassis rail protruding out into your step stairwell, lol!
Since the public registrations are closed, you must have an invite from a current member to be able to register and post in this thread.
Have an account? Login here.