Hey folks, its been a while :) Hoping some one here will be able to help me out. Got a wee NZ built Laser with the E3 engine (1.3). Developed a wee miss so removed the cap and rotor as they look like they need replaced, expected to see a set of pretty standard ignition points behind the rotor, but nope, its something Im not familiar with. Bit of corrosion there and the 2 springs are loose so I would like to either clean and adjust or just replace. Problem is, the only listings parts outfits have are for Jap models with standard contact points and also google has given me no info on adjustment or settings. hmm. Anyone smarterer than I able to help? Cheers! Heres a pic of the set up (taken one handed in gale force winds) https://trademe.tmcdn.co.nz/photoserver/full/420684975.jpg
intrade,
Oct 24, 6:38am
them springs are the ref limmiter at a guess. centrifugal rev limmiter where common my mk1 gti golf from 1976 also had one
franc123,
Oct 24, 6:42am
Its got electronic ignition but with mechanical and vacuum advance, it was standard on NZ new Lasers from the mk2 model from mid 1983. Just make sure the 2 weights pivot free on the posts and that the diaphragm on the side holds vacuum, you should also be able to grip the rotor and twist it slightly in one direction, drop some light oil down the shaft underneath the rotor spigot if it doesn't, it should spring back after being twisted. Fit the new cap and rotor, refit the leads if they test ok and check the spark plugs too, it would be a good idea to check the timing afterwards with a strobe lamp.
the springs are loose at rest normally ( slightly), I certainly would not be tensioning them until you can prove the specs are too far out of kilter
skin1235,
Oct 24, 6:50am
had a couple of them jason, one screwed the cam in half ( that was a turbo 1600 model ) = engine destruct, the other went like a cut cat too, eventually retired after an argument with a gate post at 15km hr, who'd have thought that if you hit them in exactly the right place the windscreen pops out due to chassis warp!
jasongroves,
Oct 24, 8:31am
Sorry folks, got caught up with family and visitors. Looking like like really good info, so will read through properly tomorrow after work and post back with results. Knew I should have asked here first :)
alfred011,
Oct 24, 10:20am
the springs will be the centrifugal timing advance mechanism which advances timing as engine RPM increases if you rotate rotor with cap removed it should have a spring loading on it the springs and moving parts get loose with age which affects the timing of spark.
mainlander05,
Oct 24, 11:07pm
There are a few different dizys on these so look up the correct one first of all.don't just type in blazer etc etc.if its the Electrics that die its dear as.to solve that pick a part will do a dizzy for $40.much better option.took me 7/8 cars before I found the right dizzy.
gmphil,
Oct 25, 7:54am
+1 for this advise
I just done one a month ago auto stop had the parts .
franc123,
Oct 25, 8:22am
They certainly can be sods to ID the right ignition parts for, it got worse in the 90's. Igniters in particular were a problem area when they got old and depending on what system it was running, the replacement could vary in cost by hundreds of dollars. They weren't necessarily the same as used in same era Familia and 323s and even taking the cheaper but more risky route of simply fitting a whole used dizzy wasn't aways easy either if you were unlucky enough to have the type which used the real pricey igniter.
snoopy221,
Oct 26, 10:11am
Yeah bn a wy. lol-plug4dapluggies Dude. pull and check ya firin ignitors-Tip price a set of NGK BP5EY'S at B N T k
jasongroves,
Oct 27, 6:31am
Been flat out sorry guys. Just been out and pulled the bits off. Does governor weights sound like the right term? Everything looks like its passed it used by date in the distributor area, so will go buy cap, rotor and weights tomorrow. Yeah think you are onto something there too snoop. The plugs look to be the factory original Champions so think I will replace them too. Cheap as chips too from the looks of things. Will post back with results once Ive fitted/tested. Cheers all! You've been a great help as usual :)
jasongroves,
Oct 27, 6:36am
Yup Franc. run into my share of dizzy issues in the early 90s era Madza/Fords. Shes a tidy old girl, previous owner was 92 and just moved into a retirement home. He bought it in 96 and had it well looked after. The last 10 or so Wofs were clean sheet and its got all receipts for the last 20 years so I dont mind spending a few bucks on it. https://trademe.tmcdn.co.nz/photoserver/full/421218056.jpg
yz490,
Oct 31, 2:50am
Thought the modules in the dizzy either went--or failed--which is what happened to my "84 626 coupe, miles from home. Did a jack up using a toyota grande TCI Box, wired it in through the side of the dizzy to join the pulse [trigger] part where i'd located 'that' wire & isolated it from the rest of the module. Disconnected the vacuum advance due to wire flex & gave it more static manual advance on the distributor. Still had weights & spring advance. Been going close to 15 years & used every day--& goes extra well too. Found my little test leads the other day--driving the rev counter from 'that' box lol. Anyway--ignore all that woffling--only be plugs on yours i recon.
intrade,
Oct 31, 2:53am
yea old toyota electronics is of high quality new stuff is also one-hung-low
however i do read of a few dead ecus now ob 90s camry toyotas i guess the capacitors in these will give up the ghost eventually its 25 years . considering the mitsubishi caps lasted 6 or less years befor they failed . would be interesting to know if mitsubishi used one-hung-low items . and whats inside them 90s toyota ecus.
jasongroves,
Nov 3, 6:18am
Yeah Ive seen the modules go, and pretty sure its not the case this time round. Have replaced the plugs, which did help a bit. Its not surging and spluttering anymore. Replaced the dizzy with a known goody, good clean set of governor weights, new cap and rotor. But its still got a huge flat spot right through the middle of the rev range. Parts have cost stuff all, and needed replaced anyway so not phased about that. Guess leads are next. but a friend "borrowed" my multi-meter so thats gonna have to wait sadly. Runs really well otherwise, so this wee niggle is rather annoying. Anything else you folk would recommend in the mean time I check? Cheers all :)
franc123,
Nov 4, 7:09am
What does it idle like and what have you set the timing to after you fitted the different distributor?
intrade,
Nov 4, 7:16am
still got a huge flat spot right through the middle of the rev range. sounds to me the carburettor also has a problem or you got something like e10 fuel contermination in your system. does power return at full throttle and on hills?
snoopy221,
Nov 4, 7:22am
Ya mon i'd be poppin of dat airy cleana thang and openin da throttle tap-and seein if ol accy pump is a good squirtin gal petrol is fifteen times heavier than air and extra petrol delivery is requiered-hence acellerator pump squirt.
jasongroves,
Nov 5, 7:41am
Havent got a tacho to check idle revs, but was idling fine, maybe a little high and top end was good. but did adjust timing last night Was probably 1/2 degree out and has made a huge improvement with no noticeable flat spot. Will get my hands on a tacho and check properly if any adjustment is needed. Whipped the air box open tonight, and pump seems to be functioning well. But the filter could use replacing so was worth a look anyway. lol. Its been a while since Ive worked on vehicles and shes such a simple wee beast Im quite enjoying getting her to 100% :)
jasongroves,
Nov 20, 1:22am
No E10 down this way intrade, but will be getting that tacho and setting everything right just the same.
Since the public registrations are closed, you must have an invite from a current member to be able to register and post in this thread.
Have an account? Login here.