there must have been at some point, but heavly cleaning and looking for an hour didnt let us find any, the internet pointed out were the marks should have been aswell, but they wernt there, oh well, the triumph is gone now! not my problem ( though it was runnign nice when it left! )
supernova2,
Oct 4, 7:10am
I've been thinking.As Ginga says he didnt turn anything just swopped the belt I'm guessing the motor was TDC firing 4 rather than firing 1.That would put the cam gear dot to dot rather than dot to arrow.As the marks are probably not exactly 180 degrees apart its quite probable that the belt is 1 tooth out.When the belt was too tight did the motor run ok!If so maybe it hopped a tooth in the retensioning process.He says his friend set the timing to 2 degrees was that with vac or without!I'd set dissy to halfway and put the timing light on and see what that makes the setting.That will give some indication of how far out (if any) the belt is.ie 12 degrees at the crank is 6 degrees at the cam.6 degrees equals one minute on a clock face so its easy to see how a 1 tooth error can occur
supernova2,
Oct 4, 7:17am
Just touching on the triumph for a sec.It was British so maybe the person with the dot punch was on strike that year so your motor was just put together by guess work at the factory by Lord Nuffield's darkskinned love child or perhaps a welsh miner.LOL.Afterall early Triumphs were named standard.As the later models werent "standard" that means they didnt need to pass quality control.Double LOL
smac,
Oct 4, 12:25pm
ooo.lemmy know if you have any. Check the numbers if you have - would be interested in D4R85, or D4R83 in a pinch.
thejazzpianoma,
Oct 4, 12:34pm
Morrisman, Firstly, not having a dig so take this as constructive please!
This may be some of the reasons why you have been having running problems with your Morries. What you said about your results with the vacuum gauge make me wonder if you actually have distributor hooked up to the wrong vacuum point.
I don't know the settings for your particular engine but as a rough guide I would be expecting around 10 degrees of vacuum advance over static timing at idle. Someone else on here could probably tell you exactly what you want.
An easy way to get your head around it is to remember that vacuum advance is there to advance the timing when the engine is not under load. your engine is not under load at idle therefore it should be running an advanced ignition timing.
SO. I strongly suggest you go back and check what you have done on the Morrie, if you have set your timing with the vacuum line attached as you suggested was O.K in this thread you may find you can get your engine running a lot nicer.
Also. if your vacuum is not advanced at idle I would be checking the vacuum advance diaphragm for leaks (just blow/suck down the vacuum hose and you can usually tell if its leaking). In addition check carefully the vacuum advance is attached to the correct port and the hose is not damaged.
Also, credit to bopbargains, he was on the money.
jasongroves,
Oct 4, 12:35pm
The 2 I can find off hand are a D412-B2 and a D4R83-30 (this one is in my car and not available until I swap engines sorry). I have another couple lying around that I will have a look for.
ginga4lyfe,
Oct 4, 1:12pm
Choice, I retentioned the cambelt, put everything back together, then pulled the dizzy out and tore it down and cleaned up and re greased the advance plates, as well as found the one advance weight had sorta chewed out the hole were its mounted, so i nipped the spring a bit tighter to compensate ( really i need a new dizzy ) and slapped it all back together, But i put the advance plate in the other way around to change the firing orientation, then installed it, put the leads in the new right way, and fired her up got her warm and. I finally can time her to 2 degrees!, so set her, took her around the block, and im pretty sure she is fine now, and she starts with a flick of the key now, no winding over for 3 or more seconds like she used to, so ill test her out liek this for a week before ill determine that she's good or not , but in all honesty. I cant wait till i have time and money for the GA Conversion that id LIKE to do, i just need a decent guide on the how to. and a list of parts :P
supernova2,
Oct 4, 6:25pm
Well done, so it looks like the problem is/was the dissy.Well at least you can now profess to be an expert on e13 cambelts.
ginga4lyfe,
Oct 4, 7:37pm
maybe, because I now have a rather irratatin hesitation/sputtering problem under acceleration , I'm sure that the vacuum advance plate is causing it though, the plate feels like it notches instead of slides freely and could be binding under acceleration when its operating
ginga4lyfe,
Oct 4, 8:47pm
so yeah a little stumped, I cant find any info online on if that this can cause this
snoopy221,
Oct 4, 9:08pm
I now have a rather irratatin hesitation/sputtering problem under acceleration , probably a crappy accellerator pump/blocked pump jet in the carby. [shown up due to not being over advanced any more]
supernova2,
Oct 4, 9:15pm
Maybe easy way to check, disconnect and plug the vac line, that will only leave cent advance working and go drive.That will eliminate the vac advance side of things.As dissy had a flogged out weight/spring I say ginga might be right and advance is not operating smoothly.Could lock the cent advance up too but if you lock up all the advance/retard what would you set the timing to!Might be a bit of trial and error.Pickapart and a 2nd hand dizzy might be the way.Id start with the dizzy or the carb but not both at once.
supernova2,
Oct 4, 9:18pm
Maybe put the advance plate back the way it was and see if any improvement, cant see it making any difference but some dizzys do have different dwell and timing on different lobes of the points cam.Doubt that would be the case with a e13 but who knows.
snoopy221,
Oct 4, 9:26pm
some dizzys do have different dwell and timing on different lobes of the points cam.
mmmkay.mmmkay.- . seen one of dem ONCE the ole **shoveit**(Vauxhall Chevette) distributor cam ground wrong from factory-aren't tunescopes with a dwell figure for each cylnder GREAT things. [Something tells me supernova might recall the days when one would gap a set of points on each lobe] pretty common for the old hitatchi dcg 306 style carb to get lazy in the acc pump. and being over advanced would fire a lean mixture. also old vaccy diagphramns always feel notchy just the effect of age on rubber.
thejazzpianoma,
Oct 4, 9:31pm
Further to supernova2, I would suggest watching with a timing light as you increase the revs, you should be able to see if the timing is advancing smoothly or not.
ginga4lyfe,
Oct 4, 10:57pm
haha! But thats were the problem lays, it feels notchy and sticky whith out hte vacuum advance unit even attached!, takes a bit of force to move the plate back and forth, So Ill pickapart run around in a few days and see what i can find
jasongroves,
Oct 4, 11:15pm
What do you need! I've wrecked 3 or so.
jasongroves,
Oct 4, 11:16pm
Oh, and I should mention that my car would barely even be running if it wasn't for snoopy working his magic on my carb:) That man really does know his stuff.
ginga4lyfe,
Oct 4, 11:50pm
well I need a whole distributor,IM not too happy with the way the spring has worn into the advancing wieghts, and the spring also looks like its on its last legs, and the vacuum advance plate too is pretty worn ( hence the sticking ) and im not too sure yet, but id like to tear down the carb and over haul it, but that may have to wait, or i can buy a second one and pop that on and see how it goes, the main problem on why it was hard to time correctly could possibly have been just because everything in the dizzy is so worn and old, at 320 thousand kms its kinda expected to be worn out though
jasongroves,
Oct 5, 12:11am
Mines an '83 and has just under 150,000Km:) I have a spare dizzy or 2. Cheap as chips. Im going to start on the engine swap tomorrow, so the carb that snoop overhauled for me will be of no use to me anymore. The carb, as to be expected is in fantastic condition. The dizzy just needs a new cap.
ginga4lyfe,
Oct 5, 9:24am
Choice as, either way ill need a new cap soon anyways the carbon stalk on mines a little short haha
ginga4lyfe,
Oct 6, 2:18pm
Hey Jason, are you documenting your conversion anywere! Id be keen to watch how it goes also. i think my carburator is leaking, its wet al around the accelerator pump and got brown seepage around the hole thing, ( cleaned and checked to see if it would come back. and it does xD
jasongroves,
Oct 6, 2:59pm
Not documenting it as such, but can take some pics and vids for you and let you know of what parts are needed etc. You can get in touch at my username63 at the hot place.
ginga4lyfe,
Dec 12, 2:14am
Awesome ill contact you later tonight
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