350 chev questions

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extrayda, Jul 12, 4:29pm
I just run a pcv from one side to under the carby, with a breather on the other side (I assume the theory is that the hose under the carb sucks the air out of the motor and burns it, the 'breather' should be air going in on the other side).This has always been sufficient on all of my V8's (chev / holden / ford).Try fixing it all up so that it works properly and see how it goes.Is there a lot of air pushing out with the smoke!

rob_man, Jul 12, 4:31pm
Could clean up a bit with some running if it's been sitting.

mk3zephyr, Jul 12, 4:39pm
no not any pressure that i could tell, mind we didnt have it running for long (crash started it), will tidy it all up and fire it up when the starter bolts arrive and see how it all goes.

lookoutas, Jul 12, 7:28pm
Probably didn't put that quite right. I've only ever run them in Jetboats at full-tit under extreme load for prolonged periods. In which case they tend to chuck out some fumes, which turns to ugly oil all over the covers. Some cure it with extended filler tubes. Doesn't mean there's anything wrong, just can't stop it.

mk3zephyr, Jul 12, 7:36pm
ok you guys what is a rough ball park figure for valve stem seals, might go down that route for starters and who is a good outfit to get them from!

alltorque350, Jul 13, 10:48am
try these guys http://www.segedin.co.nz/

mk3zephyr, Jul 14, 2:00pm
okelly doekelly, gotthe right bolts for the offset hole starter, even went and made a rear bracket (copying a picture of an oem one), hit the starter and it doesnt seem to want to mesh, Flywheel is a 168 tooth and starter is a 9 tooth job, Is that the correct configuration!, is there shims you can get to space the starter out!, loosened the bolts off and it tried to turn a bit but i stopped as i dont want to break the alloy starter housing, googled it but couldnt really find an answer

petermcg, Jul 14, 3:20pm
There is two different styles of starter motor with the small block chev, they match up with two different styles of Flywheel or flex plate. You need two change either your starter or your fly wheel to get the correct combination, then the bolt set up wont have so much strain on it. The origonal starter mounting bolts were a special type and one starter had a long and a short on I remember but if you get the correct starter to fly wheel combo and use the bracket that supports the back of the starter to the block, you could get away with using non standard mounting bolts as I have done that before in the past. Make sure you dont have a flywheel or flexplate of a 400 motor as they are balanced different. Also some early blocks had the starter mounted on the bell housing and the block needed to be drilled to mount the later starter,! Has this been done. The static timing with a timing light when idling should be off the end of the scale with the small block in my books. just make sure the motor dose not hunt or strain when starting as then you need to back of a bit. If you have a mallory or have no vacuum advance mechanismn, you can even advance up a bit more.

petermcg, Jul 14, 3:50pm
There are Three starters
One is staggered for 168 tooth flexplate,, and one is straight for 153 tooth flexplates. Then there is the bell housingmounted which also uses 168 tooth flex plate.
When you put the flexplate on, make sure that the beveled side of the gear is towards the starter.

mk3zephyr, Jul 14, 4:20pm
ive got the one that is staggered ie offset holes, when the guys who i got it from tried to start it there was quite a gap and when i bolted the starter up today it was on the piss which got me thinking that it may need a shim, engine hasnt been removed and this has all started as the wrong starter bolts were used causing breakages, cant do timing etc etc if i cant fire the bitch lol, ok just a bit of an edit here, got hold of the previous owner and yip its the correct starter, back to the old drawing board

petermcg, Jul 14, 7:04pm
Looking at your first two photos it looks like the bit that is broken will not affect the mounting of the starter as the long bolts pass through that section and clamp on another part of the starter,,, and two long bolts,, not one long and one short. I have never heard of using a spacer or a shim and still think the starter might be the wrong one for the fly wheel. or is it a flxplate and is it on the right way. The links provided to the listings on trademe for bolts and starters couldsee you right.

petermcg, Jul 14, 7:07pm
And when you do gt it going and it sounds like the timing is out,, you should also check that you havent got avalve clearance adjusted wrong,,(to tight),, as the timing being out would not make i run rough but would only alter the speed that it idles at. Check your leads are all on and there are no cracks in the cap.

mk3zephyr, Jul 14, 7:14pm
ok ive got the correct 2 long bolts from a chev dealer (knurled with a step), new starter housing (same as broken one) did some googling and its the correct starter and guys in other yank forums are talking about shims as when i put the starter in it looked a bit crooked when i tightened the mounting bolts, Its a flywheel (running a chev 4 speed box)and not a flexplate, just think i will have to get out there tomorrow and titu around till i sort it

mk3zephyr, Jul 17, 11:55am
well,well,well, Bloody amazing, Got the starter turning the donk over and it was blowing back thru the carb, pulled the plugs found TDC and checked where the rotor was pointing, Was pointing at #8 cylinder, pulled leads and re-configured them, put plugs back in,leads on, hit the starter and she fired into life 1st pop, no smoke from the rockers either and sounds shit loads better than when i picked it up, no wonder it sounded rough with the firing sequence out, huge relief and might just have to have an Ale or two to celebrate :)

lookoutas, Jul 17, 12:30pm
So you can do it.

mk3zephyr, Jul 17, 2:03pm
didnt say i couldnt

extrayda, Jul 17, 7:05pm
hah! Thats great news - hopefully thats all there is to it.
Nice to hear a happy ending for once.

mk3zephyr, Sep 12, 10:14am
Cheers, just have to make new rocker cover breather hoses (being a speedway engine), fix a slight fuel leak, weld a couple of holes up in the exhaust and it should be all good, then a final tune, then attack the rest of my list and the Vette should have a new lease of life