Fortunately, these are all first world problems and we have plenty to eat, broadband and capacity for a beer or two.
toppo1,
Dec 20, 5:07pm
If its going to live in a marine environment or outside all the time 316 or 304 S/S is what you should be using. 316 preferably around salt water and keep it wiped down regularly. Salt spray is a bitch
tonyrockyhorror,
Dec 20, 9:23pm
304 is hopeless in chloride environments.
unclejake,
Dec 20, 10:41pm
The 201 vs 430 argument now seems to be moot as Burnsco can't easily supply the BBQ in 430 grade, so I either need to return it for a refund or put up with some corossion.
Thanks for the help
the_don_61,
Dec 20, 10:45pm
Stainless steel. can be a rip.some SS as high metal compand and a magnet will stick to some stainless steel
tonyrockyhorror,
Dec 20, 10:53pm
Try again, this time in English.
saki,
Dec 21, 4:13am
409 is magnetic
toppo1,
Dec 21, 4:23am
so is 253ma and 304h
tonyrockyhorror,
Dec 21, 4:28am
More accurately, martensitic and ferritic stainless steels are magnetic. But some austenitics become appreciably magnetic with work.
Not that any of this matters much for a BBQ.
intrade,
Dec 21, 6:03am
i did not read the whole thread but if you need to be sure that stainless steel is stainless 100% highest grade then get a magnet and if it wont stick to it then its stainless if it sticks then it will rust with guarantee sooner or later.
intrade,
Dec 21, 6:05am
ps good luck finding a bbq that is real stainless i doubt you will find one in this country unless somone hand made it from real stainless.
mrfxit,
Dec 21, 6:07am
316 should be non magnetic which would account for it not rusting under 99% of conditions. 304 & 316 is what's used extensively in the dairy industry/ cow sheds with mostly 316 for cow shed work pit gear (claws/ cups etc)
mrfxit,
Dec 21, 6:09am
Non magnetic stainless steel is also known "clip stainless" in the scrap industry & is worth a lot more then magnetic stainless scrap
mrfxit,
Dec 21, 6:12am
The higher the grade, the harder it is to work with, bbq makers work mostly with bottom grade thin sheet stainless "cos it's easier & still looks pretty for longer then plain steel"
I believe they are totara weatherboards. The house was built in 1927 but the main problem areas are recent alterations/additions. We get a huge amount of salt drift.
No one understands so I have to do most things myself.It is very frustrating to instruct a timber window fixer (for example) to use only SS nails and then catch him using passivated zinc screws. The re-work is sometimes impossibe once the nail/screw heads are punched down
drew2009,
Jun 28, 2:57pm
Have you considered building one yourself! I have seen one built from stainless offcuts from the local scrappy and trademe and it turned out great.
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