you cant do anything untill you get the drill bit outa the thread. If you can get that out you might have to drill the bolt out and put a thread in toe block.
carmedic,
Feb 11, 8:02pm
Big penny/repair washer over the broken stud mig weld it on at high power then weld a nut to the washer and undo. I??
h.e,
Feb 11, 8:07pm
if you cant get the drill out you will need to build up the bolt with weld,mig only, DONT GET THE BLOCK,once weld is past flush plug weld a nut on,undo pronto,it may take 2-3 goes but its about your only option with a broken drill bit in there
h.e,
Feb 11, 8:08pm
i must type real slow post 4 wasnt there when i started haha
dent,
Feb 11, 8:08pm
Carmedic can you please explain the repair washer option. Cant say iv e seen that done befor
smac,
Feb 11, 8:12pm
carmedic is saying a washer first, as the washer protects the block (you're only welding inside the washer hole - should only be able to see bolt)
dent,
Feb 11, 8:13pm
Ahhh ok thanks for that will rember that trick.
40wav,
Feb 11, 8:18pm
Make sure you let us know how you get on.
dent,
Feb 11, 8:19pm
yeah that would be good not enough people reply with results.
therafter1,
Feb 11, 8:21pm
If you don??
40wav,
Feb 11, 8:36pm
If you were in Nelson I would help you out with the mig.Surely someone down there can spare half an hour and 150mm of mig wire!
un_known,
Feb 11, 9:26pm
man i shouldve read it right the first time.if its broken off flush why dont u just drill it out.use a good quality drill bit.then just tap a new thread.
just my 2c.good luck with what ever u do.snapped bolts can be a real pain esp if u dont have a welder.
jsbike,
Feb 11, 9:39pm
forget it, just drill and tap outanother hole and re-locate the tensioner, same as when building up an rb30 twin cam. there is a guide on the net, search "rb30det guide"
evotime,
Feb 11, 10:16pm
I agree mig it, it has never failed for me, the heat will help to free any thread lock (loctite) thats holding the remains of the bolt as well. Is it the cambelt tensioner or only a drive belt if cambelt tensioner--did the tensioner move and let the cam belt slip if so you might have bent valves!
smac,
Feb 12, 6:47am
If you are going to get help, I'd actually head for an engineer or machine shop rather than a mechanic. Somewhere that does head work and crank grinding etc, they do this stuff for a living and won't butcher it like a grease monkey might.
No monkeys were insulted in the making of this post.
andrew241,
Feb 12, 7:51am
Ive just tryed this method and could not belive how easy it was thanks for the tip.
jsbike,
Feb 12, 9:38am
thats how I read it too, which is why I suggested moving the tensioner
gs1220,
Feb 12, 3:11pm
I've had a similar problem with a motorcycle exhaust stud, broken off flush with the surface of the cylinder, with an ezy-out snapped off in it. I took it to Mace Engineering in CHCH and they removed it using (if I remember right) "spark-erosion". We were, of course, able to carry the cylinder to them. It was a very low-stress solution.
tnt423,
Feb 12, 5:19pm
My mates one snapped at idle and bent all the valves.
elect70,
Apr 20, 11:43am
As above drill & tap new hole & also on tensioner bracketso will be same .save yourself a lot of greif .
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