to fit a direct injected diesel up to my 4x4 gearbox, I've been thinking about it and reckon i've got most of it figured out, but how thick should I make it! Anyone made their own!
bevharris1938,
Dec 29, 6:38pm
I had one made up got it made 5mm thick. i had to put a spacer between the motor and the bellhousing
serf407,
Dec 29, 6:41pm
It might help if you provide the details of the engine and gearbox that you are considering mating together. There are pre-made engine adaptors available for some of the common conversions.
aj254,
Dec 29, 7:38pm
Thinking of putting a peugeot 2l hdi in a hilux.
jasongroves,
Dec 29, 7:42pm
Interesting.haven't seen that before. I like your style, but surely there are far easier options!
morrisman1,
Dec 29, 7:45pm
I have heard that a ford type 9 box will bolt up to that engine. There is some info on a morris minor with a XUD9te engine in it and that engine will fit the HDI gearbox so my logic says the HDI will fit the type 9.
aj254,
Dec 29, 7:46pm
I knew someone would say that. Heard of a guy who put a 1.6L common rail diesel from a kia cerato in a hilux, reckoned it went like sh!t It used to have a 2.8 diesel in it.
aj254,
Dec 29, 7:48pm
I have figured out how to get all the holes in the right places etc, just wondering how thick to make it, because basically it has the engine hanging off one side and the gearbox on the other.
aj254,
Dec 29, 7:49pm
and if you're thinking 'why the hell', well why the hell not!
morrisman1,
Dec 29, 7:49pm
well really, it has to sustain torque and if the engine is balanced on the mounts then just a bit of force for jiggling. I can imagine that it is an easy item to over-engineer. Someone please correct me if my logic is flawed
aj254,
Dec 29, 7:51pm
What was it for!
aj254,
Dec 29, 7:52pm
Good point (maybe) I've never done one before so I can't prove you wrong, maybe someone else can!
skin1235,
Dec 29, 9:17pm
you'd have to make a few measurements, rear engine bellhousing mount face to clutch plate, is there room for the pressure plate, is the spigot going to be long enough, can adaptors be made if it isn't, what clutch is used and method of activation, do you need to space the flywheel out or trim it and move it in
and then you'll know what sort of distance differential you have, can such be taken up as a plate, would it be rigid enough, do you need more, or less for road work I've seen plates of 6mm, but there is no way I'd take those offroad
mrfxit,
Dec 30, 8:39am
Thickness of the plate will be determined by the length of the gearbox input/spigot shaft in to the flywheel spigot bush. Nothing else matters because if the shaft tip is too far in, the gearbox will bind. If the shaft is too far out the clutch plate & shaft will flap around like a k0c in a large sock
mrfxit,
Dec 30, 8:40am
Work out THAT distance FIRST. Then you can work on altering whatever you need
aj254,
Dec 30, 8:44am
Thanks for that, I'm still at the stage were I'm considering it as the 2.8 hasn't packed up yet and I've got a Lexus V8 Hilux project taking up all my space in the shed. I'll be talking to a couuple of engineers I think.
rob_man,
Dec 30, 10:35am
I have in the past had a stepped bronze adapter turned up to make a spigot locate to the back of the crank properly. It worked out fine. What I'm trying to say is that the distance from the box to the crank can be compensated for with a bit of engineering and ingenuity.
aj254,
Dec 30, 3:13pm
So how thick (minimum) should an adapter plate be for strength! Will be doing a bit of offroading in it if I get around to doing it. And is steel or aluminium better or does that just depend on the job!
mrfxit,
Dec 30, 3:18pm
Minimum of 2 to 4mm with webbing. A lot depends on how many bolts you can get in to the back of the motor & off stay arms from the block
SPIGOT POSITION SPACING FIRST.
The rest can be adjusted (even the spigot /gearbox input shaft) . << I say it like that so that you KNOW which shaft it is. Some ppl call it by either name & then get grumpy because you used the wrong name (olives & ferrals)
fryan1962,
Dec 30, 3:47pm
marks adaptors in oz used to have good page I better not put to much info up already in trouble you might get some ideas.I haven't been into 4x4 for ages not since selling my pinzgauer 6x6
fryan1962,
Dec 30, 3:49pm
not as good as when rod hadfield had it I have heard
thejazzpianoma,
Dec 30, 3:54pm
Its not the plate I would be worried about. its the electronics. (Might be an easy fix with the Peugeot I don't know. but some other common rail diesels. not so much)
Excellent plan though if you can get it to work.
skin1235,
Dec 30, 6:06pm
ali plate would be very flexible and suspect it would fail early to fatigue ( cast ali is more rigid), but you are getting ahead of yourself, the thickness will be determined by the available space, if you are limited to less than 8mm then consider spacing the flywheel ( unless you can verify that simply moving the box back further will not reduce spline engagement inthe clutch/es , if so you can adapt a spigot bushing to achieve the correct the spigot engagement) 8mm steel would be a minimum for me, and that would be on a plate with less than 30mm between the different bolt locations prefer 10 to be less concerned, 12 to be happyish, more would get a smile, depends on how far between bolts, big span 12mm would be too 'thin', that said, if you had 20mm to use you'd get away with 20mm ali plate any movement or flexing is going to wreck things, clutches, front bearings in the box, mainshaft in the box, starter motor, tailshaft bushings, driveshaft etc, any lack of rigidity will effect them all to some degree - and at what degree do they fail
aj254,
Jul 24, 9:06am
Cheers for that guys.
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