18RG Cam Timing

Does anyone have a Haynes Manual or Workshop manual which includes how to set Cam Timing for a Toyota 18R-G Engine!

The camshafts have 4 key holes as do the cam gears, so theres a possibility of 8 different positions in each camshaft. The problem I have is I marked it all when I took it off, but when the Camshop was doing the regrind on them they damaged them and had to replace them with new, which resulted in me losing my markings - I know, I should of written them down or taken a photo.

Cheers

Yes I have a workshop manual but you will need a special service tool to set up cams in the correct location.

Are you able to tell me which holes in the camshaft the pins for the camgear go into!

The 4 holes in the cam line up with the 4 holes in the drive pulleys but each hole is a few deg difference once the pin is fitted. If the cams are new they will need to be dialed in hence the special service tool. Every 18R-G engine is different so I can't just tell you a hole because it could be different and if the cams have now been ground the orangial holes will no longer be the correct holes. It's a primitive form of adjustable cam drives

Ok, any idea where I can get the tool from nowadays! Local Toyota dealers don't have anything to do with these engines anymore

Alternatively, I do have the cam spec sheet for my engine, which tells me Suggested Centrelines - Intake 105 ATDC and Exhaust 108 BTDC

I presume that is the Degrees that the cam is at Max lift/No lift !

Sorry to drag the thread back up again, hopefully angel sees this.

Does the book/manual show, where the dots on the cam gear are in relation to the head at TDC! I presumed they would both be flush with the head pointing inwards but it doesn't look anywhere near right.

Cheers

Follow the camshaft grinders card to properly align the cams. Do not use the standard 12 o'clock cam slot position at tdc as this is for standard cams and after extensive testing on a dyno and back to back runs and adjusting the standard 12 o'clock is not even close. I drastically advanced the inlet cam and retarded the exhaust and made more power everywhere. Between 2500 and 6000 rpm I gained between 15% and 33% more power across the board with standard 88270 cams. If the cam specs come with lift at tdc this is probably the easiest way to dial them in but can be tricky especially for the novice. Even a lot of reputable engine builders are not well educated in degreeing cams. Set it up at 12 o'clock at tdc and take it to someone that knows what there doing. If the engine is out bolt a degree wheel to the crank, find true tdc and make a marker, zero your degree wheel and at maximum valve lift with a dial indicator on the inlet valve you must be at the degree stated on the cam card. Once again I am very experienced at these and it is tricky and time consuming. I have made jigs and redrilled the sprockets to get the specs I want. It takes time but is the most important necessity to engine building. Let's just say it is free horsepower that you have already paid for but can be so easily lost on assembly. I could not be more adamant about how critical correct cam timing is. It is the heart of the engine. Yes if you have a dyno you can deviate away from suggested specs but only change one thing and remeasure. Its amazing how do many think a bog then surge of top end is faster than constant pull. Go figure. Measure always. Dyno doesn't lie when used as intended.hope this helps. Richard kerner. Allcraft automotives. Melbourne. Australia