Tell me about batterys

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gmphil, Jun 1, 4:14pm
please .
hav a boat and battery had it .
pulled out and is a deep cycle!
isnt that sort of battery better as house battery for long slow discharge as in running like lights for long period ! tia!

mantagsi, Jun 1, 5:06pm
its pretty typical to use deep cycle batteries for marine applications so you can run accessories etc when engine is off. If it is OK, pop it back and happy boating :)

gmphil, Jun 1, 5:26pm
had the boat a year ,now noticed dusnt crank for long anymore and to flat today in coulnt go fish dam it
il charge in use as house battery in buy new one for starter

red97, Jun 1, 5:52pm
majority of marine batteries appear to be deep cycle.

bigfatmat1, Jun 1, 5:55pm
deep cycle is also used due to the construction allowing it to withstand vibrations better.

neville48, Jun 1, 9:01pm
Get a new one, its far too dangerous to go out there unless you are sure 100% you can get back in.

intrade, Jun 1, 9:26pm
for motor boat i would construct a housing with suspension shock absorbers as the battery will get detroyed when you hammer from wave to wave real fast no matter what battery you use but with propper suspended housing you could use any battery and save loads in the long run.

martin11, Jun 2, 7:39am
Thats why you buy a proper marine battery they are built differently to help them withstand vibration . Use a deep cycle for all auxilary power and a proper starting battery for starting the engine . make sure you have it switchable for charging and transfer if you need to . Deep cycle batteries are not really made for starting engines.
Do not bother with above comments from intradeits a total waste of time and money no need for that

mm12345, Jun 2, 8:31am
My experience with deep cycle batteries has been that they are possibly not worth the extra cost - depending on duty cycle on a boat.
I seem to get about 3 years out of a marine battery but only 4 years out of a deep cycle (at double the cost), based on the following usage:
Trickle charge via a small solar panel with charge controller.For 48 weeks of the year, the battery is sitting at full charge.
We use the boat for about 4 weeks a year (living on board).A 20w panel with charge controller doesn't quite keep up with our use - the battery will be periodically run flat - and this is where a deep cycle battery could or should make a big difference, but as it turns out - it's made very little difference at all to the battery life we've experienced.When the battery is flat, we'll generally get it charged by running the motor for a few hours as a matter of course.The charge circuit is unregulated - this is generally bad (over-charging) but it's been suggested that it might - under that duty cycle - actually prolong battery life, as over-charging (for short periods) can reduce sulphation from running the battery flat.
I expect that a deep cycle battery would really come into it's own if the boat was being used all year, and regularly run down.Our occasional use "off season" we tend to use the boat for day sailing or overnight, running the motor for short periods while anchoring etc means that the battery keeps close to full charge.We don't need a lot of "CCA" as despite electric start outboard, the starter only draws about 30 amps (IIRC).

martin11, Jun 2, 8:52am
Sounds like you are not looking after your deep cycle battery ,you should not run it flat and the charging should be regulated . Most should only be discharge to about 50% depending on the make of battery . Running it dead flat can cause the battery to SulphateSpecial chargers can help this but not an unregulated charge from an engine

mm12345, Jun 2, 11:20am
Absolutely I wasn't looking after it.
But on a single battery system it would be a PITA to fuss over it (really requiring a dual battery system as you suggest), when the cost of batteries per year (normal marine batteries) has been about $50.
I'm surprised how long the ordinary batteries last - the sulphate reduction from over-charging seems like a reasonable theory, the charge circuit from the outboard delivers about 14.5v at cruise revs, but at high revs - which would only ever be for short duration - over 20v.Something works - as despite abuse, they have consistently lasted as long as a normal car battery in a car.
On larger boats where you might have an expensive bank of deep cycle batteries, you're likely to have charging capacity from engines and/or solar capacity to look after them properly, and switching between banks.

martin11, Jun 2, 11:24am
mm12345 most outboards have a regulator on them ,what is your motor !

mm12345, Jun 2, 11:29am
Just a 10hp auxilliary on a yacht.There's no regulator - not sure if any or many outboards of that size have regulators.The outboard has electric start, possibly for that reason has a larger than normal "lighting circuit" (IIRC it's specified as about 8 amp).

mm12345, Jun 2, 11:29am
Just a 10hp auxilliary on a yacht.There's no regulator - not sure if any or many outboards of that size have regulators.The outboard has electric start, possibly for that reason has a larger than normal "lighting circuit" (IIRC it's specified as about 8 amp).

Motor is an old extra long-shaft (25") high-thrust 2 stroke Suzuki with High thrust reverse. Fortunately I've been able to keep it going as all parts are still available - as there are very few outboards made to that kind of spec any more (high-thrust / extra long shaft).Yamaha make a shorter (22"!) shaft 4 stroke, Tohatsu make a similar 4 stoke, also with 25" shaft, but lacks the high thrust reversing prop feature.

martin11, Jun 2, 11:32am
My 8 hp aux has a regulator just checked the manual

mm12345, Jun 2, 11:38am
What make is that!

martin11, Jun 2, 12:26pm
Evinrudeanother one I know of is the Mercury 4hp sale drive it has a regulator 56watt it shows this on the wiring diagram

martin11, Jun 2, 12:33pm
The 1988 Suzuki dt9.9celj has a regulator on it . Good site to find parts for you
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Suzuki/Outboard/1988/DT9.9CELJ/OPTIONAL%20ELECTRICAL%202/parts.html

mm12345, Jun 2, 12:57pm
That is a good site. Looks like that link though is for "optional" electrical.The DT9.9C I have definitely doesn't have the regulator.Ouch - it's expensive too.

jenny188, Jun 2, 1:21pm
There are good marine battery's and then there are cheaper ones, which (at risk of getting attacked here) are just heavy duty ones with a change of sticker. For an auxiliary on a yacht, the pounding should not be extreme and a standard deep cycle should suffice. It is good preventative maintenance to trickle charge every couple of months, even if it means taking your battery off the boat.

martin11, Jun 2, 1:47pm
Yes I agree ,but the more expensive one are made for marine service with heavier plates and glass fibre separators much better quality but they do last longer . I used to use heavy duty one and they wold last about 2 years in my boat but bought a more expensive one and it been in there for 4years and is going fine . tests okay are not cheap

realtrader1, Jun 2, 1:47pm
You say: quote "you buy a proper marine battery they are built differently to help them withstand vibration".Fair enough but suspension will help too.Why deny it!In fact, as intrade said, have a suitable mounting and fita cheaper battery!What's wrong with thinking outside of the square!I like it!There are lots of ways of saving money and even assisting your deep cycle to cycle longer:)

martin11, Jun 3, 6:42am
There would be a fine line in getting the suspension right in that the battery is held tight not bouncing around in a largerange of conditions .
Never in all of the years I have been involved in boats have I seen or heard of this . Perhaps it has been tried . Personally I would go for a proper battery well held down by clamps

whqqsh, Jun 3, 7:05am

pup2, Jun 3, 8:01am
Optima battery 1000 cca. As long as it is kept charged, will serve you well for years. Just pop it in. Seen these ones last roughly 12 to 15+ years. Yet to see another battery get close to this.