I have noticed lately that at low speed the cat converter does rattle a bit. oxygen sensor another option!
ceebee2,
Jun 16, 8:55am
Are you sure you cut the gasket exactly.sounds like you have covered a vacuum port. Hint: I use a small ball pein hammer to make all gaskets, works a treat and use 1mm gasket paper. If the hammer is small enough like mine you can even tap the holes out as well.
lolzor123,
Jun 16, 9:30am
Hmmmm, good point. I will check out that too. On a related topic, when I start the car on a cold Dunedin morning it will start fine at just over 1500rpm, but then as soon as I drive it to say the give way sign at the top of our street the idle is at 2000rpm.this goes down to the above described to +1000rpm area after 15mins or more of driving.does it sound like my thermostat is stuck open as well! Because I've got an aftermarket temp gauge with a sensor in the top radiator hose, and that will start producing a reading at 40 degrees celcius or so! Shouldn't it be much higher since the top hose should only be getting fluid once the thermostat opens!Grrrr this car is headaches at the mo :P
unbeatabull,
Jun 16, 11:42am
Personally, I would agree with Ceebee about the idle thing, good chance it's not a perfect cut gasket.
The Idle hunting problem could be a few things. Personally I've found dirty throttle bodies don't cause hunting, but rather will cause the car to cut out entirely. My bet would be your IACV is dirty (which attaches to the throttlebody) - remove this and give it a good clean. If it is an electronic one, unplug it and start hte car and see how it idles - make sure you don't plug it back in while car still running though, turn it completely off first. If its vacuum operated, remove the vacuum hose and plug it with a screw/bolt/thumb whichever is easiest.
If its not that and the everything around the TB etc is all immaculate, I would start looking at Coolant Temp and IAT sensors. The IAT Sensor is often part of the MAF sensor so trying another one of them would be a good start. Coolant Temp you will most likely have two sensors, one a single wire and the other will have two wires. The one with the two wires is the one you want as that is the one that goes to the ECU, the other one is for your gauge on the dash and doesn't affect operation.
lolzor123,
Jun 16, 12:16pm
Thanks for that unbeatabull. Yeah I was apprehensive about taking apart the IACV so didn't get to give it a decent clean. Will have a look at that on Mon morning tho - cheers for the tip about unplugging it to test :) I'm definetely leaning towards this being the issue now. Will also look at coolant sensors, and MAF again - might price up a second hand MAF with wreckers too if IACV doesn't seem to do much. In regards to my comment above about secondary temp gauge showing coolant flowing through top hose at only 40C - do you think that is a sign of the thermostat stuck open! It's about time to replace radiator hoses anyway so I guess I may aswell do the thermostat at the same time. Thanks for your advice :)
unbeatabull,
Jun 16, 12:56pm
I'd be checking the sensor first personally. How does your heater work and your incar temp gauge! If it gets hot within 5-10 minutes driver your thermostat will most likely be ok, but if the temperature is constantly below where it normally sits or your heater is never really hot then I would look into it. It is just a 5 minute job to replace like you said so for Peace Of Mind could be worth doing.
lolzor123,
Jun 16, 1:20pm
Yeah takes at least 15-20mins for car to get temp up and heater takes ages to get warm, and never gets really hot.I'll replace thermostat on Mon when I do hoses, and check out sensors. Oh how much fun this bottom radiator hose looks like it's going to be (not exactly the most spacious engine bay ;) ).
ceebee2,
Jun 16, 2:19pm
I assume you haven't touched the TPS screw that is loctited to a small nut that looks like the idle screw. If so that will certainly mess up all the A/F mixtures! Thermostat is def suspect. Shouldn't idle at 2000rpm for any temp stage. The adjustment screw is factory set at upper left of pic on the carby body. URL below
Nope haven't touched that. I figured it was best to figure out what is causing the problem rather than 'adjust it away'. Yeah is EFI model so bottom part of TB looks a bit different to pic too - it has a hose which comes off the main intake hose connected to it, and what I think is a coolant hose!That's what lead me to believe that the thermostat is bad - if it is stuck open it will be allowing really cold coolant to flow round, so car won't stay in 'closed loop' and get up to normal temp very quickly. The issue of heating uptime was reinforced last night when I left work after midnight.sooo cold. I went and grabbed a thermostat yesterday from Repco - they seemed to think it will be either a 52mm or 54mm size one I needed. Having not taken my old one off yet I don't know what size it actually is. If anyone know for sure what size I need to use it may save me a double draining and bleeding of my cooling system.1500cc EFI Familia BG engine 1991. (They only had 54mm in stock so I couldn't get one of each.) Thanks :)
lolzor123,
Jun 18, 1:57pm
Ok so replaced radiator hoses and thermostat today - as I suspected thermostat was stuck open.Car warms up soooo much quicker now. :) Idles better but still has a bit of a hunting idle when warm. I think I may need to take off IACV properly and give it a really good clean.
ceebee2,
Jun 18, 2:13pm
Nice!
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