can't find the fuse for temp and fuel gauge as they not working anyone have an idea!
icemans1,
Jul 14, 4:49pm
from memory, fuses are underneath bonnet - not under dash. glass, not plastic
jme16,
Jul 14, 4:56pm
they all good but aren't they for lights and indicators, there is only a 4 fuse unit under bonnet
jme16,
Jul 14, 5:46pm
all fuses good still won't work
smac,
Jul 14, 5:53pm
Could easily be a loose connection of course, but could be the voltage stabiliser, I think mounted in behind the 3 pod gauge cluster on a clubman. Little box thing that looks like this:
If those gauges are fed straight off the power they fluctuate up and down as the voltage varies. SO that stabiliser feeds a constant (slightly lower) voltage to the gauges. If it fails, gauges no worky.
supernova2,
Jul 14, 7:14pm
The early stabaliser had all male terminals.If yiou hook it up the wroing way round it stuffs it.Later ones had a male and a female so bit harder to get it wrong.Have you checked the fuses (meter, test light)or just looked at them!From memory one of the fuses protects all things running off the ignition switch.Early Mini had a wire from the stabaliser to one guage and then onto the next however I think the clubman uses a printed circuit for the guage cluster.Might be a dirty connection.Pretty easy to pull the cluster out and fiddle about with the wires/connections.
jme16,
Jul 14, 8:09pm
thanks will look tomorrow
jme16,
Jul 14, 9:15pm
got the better of me i found it but how can you test it to see if it working!
directorylist,
Jul 14, 9:41pm
Chuck an analogue meter on the output, should be reading about 11.5 volts i think! not familar with the mini but on the brits i've got its about that.
If its both guages at the same time, chances are thats what it is.
smac,
Jul 15, 7:44am
jme16 have you got a workshop manual/! If not get one. It'll pay for its self in no time.
But for now, there are wiring diagrams available online that will show what is connected where.Once you have 12V feeding to the correct terminal (not the wrong one, you could fry it) you should get a an average voltage of about 10V from the output. Trouble is, as directory list says this is best checked with an analogue meter as it's actually an average voltage of 10.not constant. So if you check with a digital meter you'll see it flickering all over the place between your source voltage and zero. DO some reading on bi-metallic voltage stabilizers. Primitive, but effective.
If it's stuffed you can replace (see the link I gave above), or even better there is a guy on ausmini.com that will sell you a solid state replacement for about $35 incl freight.
smac,
Jul 15, 7:50am
Also, to just check that there is SOME life coming out of the unit you can use a bulb. 10V is still plenty to get some life out of a 12V bulb. That will at least tell you if the unit is completely dead or not.
jme16,
Jul 15, 12:41pm
thankyou very much
supernova2,
Jul 15, 8:35pm
And don't forget to check that you have 12v coming into the unit as well.
directorylist,
Jul 15, 8:44pm
Yeah like SMAC said a Solid state replacement is by far your best option
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