Starting slow restoration-best equipment needed?

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fred-a, Aug 2, 7:10am
Morning all
I've purchased a car I last owned 20 years ago and want to do a slow resto job on it - both money and time are factors. There's a lot o surface rust on the floorpan, the leaf springs, the diff etc.
I saw auction 49972450. Would this be a worthy invetment to cut down on time! I also see that Supercheap sell a 90L sandblasting box - any good! I am not sure that sandblasting is the answer , but don't want to spend 12 months on doing this and then say "jeez I wish I had bought a sandblaster to start with".
Ditto an air compressor and tools to go with it. I don't have one, but would it make lighter work of some things! I am not a car painter, but would be keen to use an air compressor/gun to paint the leaf springs, diff etc for a better finish! Also I see you can get spray on underseal as well. The interior of this car has been stripped and sat for 9 years so wondering if an air compressor and air drill with a wire brush attachment might make removing the surface rust from the floorpan inside easier.

Cheers for any advice.

jason18, Aug 2, 7:12am
Get a good air compressor. I have found those cheap sand blast units are next to useless.

jason18, Aug 2, 7:13am
Also im unsure a pocket bike would be of any help lol 49972450

fred-a, Aug 2, 7:26am
Doh! That was meant to be 499724250.
Jason - are you saying I could use an air compressor in place of a sandblaster (with some attachment) or just that the sand blasting things are useless! Will i actually make use of an air compressor for things other than painting small stuff!

jason18, Aug 2, 7:32am
Well I find my compressor great for removing stubborn bolts and using the air die grinder for rust and paint removal (with wire brush) I spray with mine. Use it all the time. Depends what you are going to be restoring!

fred-a, Aug 2, 7:46am
495785202
Air die grinder! Thanks I was searching for the right tool didn't know what it was called. Did you buy. One with the wire brush or just got that separately!

rsr72, Aug 2, 7:59am
#1- Buy-
a good air compressor with a big tank,(easy to do basic painting/undercoating on small parts, suspension, underneath, etc.
A powerful electric drill,
lots of drill wire brushes,
a cleaning tank,
scrapers/files/drills/small crow bar and levers/various hammers,
good socket sets,
- best to leave sand/bead/oxide blasting to specialists as home equipment can never do an adequate job.

chebry, Aug 2, 10:09am
I sand blasted and repainted an entire car with a 9cuft supercheap compressor cheap mini sandblast gun etc a bit slow but it can be done

gunhand, Aug 2, 11:13am
Those things are good for spot blasting only and need very clean media and a good compressor behind it. I use a 16cf one and its not realy big enough for alot of blasting.There handy for small parts.Id price up media blasters and you may find getting a few parts done at at time cheap enough.
Its the best way in the end unless you enjoy hours on end with wire wheels etc, even then they just skim the surface, blasting gets it all.
And buy the proper 2k primers as well.
And only other bit of advice is buy some 2k paint and when you finish each part give it a coat to seal it all up, dont leave parts in primer for long periods.
On bigger restos I finish panels in black 2k. It seals it and allows me to see what the painted item will look like. You only need one good coat or two mediums.
.

elect70, Aug 2, 12:06pm
I did thecomp sand blaston a charger I did up , tookages, bloody mess getting all sand outkept clogging upsand has to be absolutley 100% drywasnt happy with finish .Wished i had takenthe to dip strippers , they usesodaless intrusive& doesnt pitpanels . thenprimed & ,undersealedit. Cost more but forgood base cant beat it .

sifty, Aug 2, 12:11pm
Has anyone tried soda blasting at home.!

gunhand, Aug 2, 12:15pm
Have ya seen the mess those things make!And soda blasting dosn't remove surface rust.Its easy on panels but you have to wet the car to clean it off, although surface rust does not form afterward.

pdc1, Aug 2, 12:25pm
Soda isn't so good on rust. Also you have to throughly clean the soda off before painting. For small stuff you can successfully make a venturi to suck out of a soda packet with a air gun. Try googling it, and you will find someone showing you somewhere how to set up.
I've set up a home sand blaster. I just use fine sand from above high-water mark from local beach. Does a beautiful job. I've coupled 3 compressors together to supply enough air. Small jobs you can tackle with 15 cfm, but you have to keep waiting for recharge of air. I guess I'm getting 30 -40 cfm. Be very careful with sand blasting, very easy to destroy a panel or whole car with too much pressure or too course of medium.
Some really good paint over rust products these days. Also many other tricks to clean rust. Google is your friend. Try words like electrolysis, acid, molasses, etc. Good luck. Don't be fooled into do the rust job by half the hard way. Do it properly once and it won't come back to haunt you.

fred-a, Aug 2, 2:05pm
I'm more interested in the best way to clean parts like the diff, brake drums, leaf springs and engine parts. I am not a panel beater so not intersted in trying to do anything with the body at the moment other thank putting rust kill on anything that needs it. My plan is do remove the surface rust from the interior and paint Hammerite (or whatever similar) over it, then do underneath cleaning diff etc replacing bushes etc. body will be last and when I can afford to get it done .
Cheers for all the suggestions!

sifty, Aug 2, 3:09pm
Yeah I was interested in home soda blasting for the likes of motorcycle drums, hubs and engine cases, plus carbs etc. Not so much the panel work. I have seen simple syphon type setups on the net, might have to buy a big box of soda and have a go.

deeman8, Aug 2, 3:27pm
For a much better / more durable finish underneath the car, seriously look at powdercoating. Lasts for years and never fades etc. can even do springs and it wont crack off etc. granted its a bit more expensive, but the results are great

fred-a, Aug 2, 3:29pm
You can powder coat the floorpan!.

elect70, Aug 3, 11:44am
Must have a bloody huge oven to fit car body into, imagine the power cost

magoo2, Aug 3, 5:51pm
may be worth reading this
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php!t=702426&highlight=vinegar
but keep your eyes off the left hand side of the page

roys351, Aug 3, 11:49pm
you have got to be kidding if you are useing beach sand you are injecting salt into steel do you think it wont delaminate! if you like your car speak to a proper panelbeater.or at least a sandblasting co your just wasting paint and time if you dont

pollymay, Aug 3, 11:54pm
That actually looks great. Strange it worked so well.

roys351, Aug 4, 12:17am
that looks good but i think i might wait to see what gunhand thinks before i try it

icemans1, Aug 4, 2:03am
marine 66 crc has better penetration than 5.56 crc for rusty nuts and bolts

nicolaas3, Aug 4, 6:04am
I sandblasted my VW floorpan using the sandblasting attachment you can buy for a standard Karcher water blaster. Wet sandblasting in effect. Slow but worked fine. No dust, no heat etc. Garnet sand you buy in bags not cheap though, and you won't be able to recycle unless its 100% dry. Gets right into all the nooks and crannies. Then put on 2 coats of POR15. Happy as with the results.

gunhand, Aug 4, 7:33am
I read that, VINEGAR!Hey Ive been doing this for a fair while like many others and never heard of using vinegar. Not saying it won't work as lots of items around the home do things way outside what there made for.
It may be just very light surface rust it removes not badly pitted stuff, I don't know.
Try it. If the item comes up clean well it must work.
As for OP wanting to do diffs etc. Yep sandblaster for sure. You will get sick of sanding etc after a while unless you enjoy it lol. And a small home unit would be ok for that as there not a huge item. do it in a clean shed and you can reuse the sand, just put it through a siv first.