Handlebar change.

what else will I need to change when changing the handlebars on my motorbike! Putting straight bars on, will I need to change cables (clutch, throttle, choke)! Cheers

depends, are the new bars higher or lower than previous to a point where original cables, connectors or controls will be hindered or get in the way.!

what bike are you refering to/

81 XV 750, changing from standard bars to drag bars to change riding position.

Shouldnt be a problem, but I'd give it a tank lift too & hide the excess cables under the tank.
Esy-peesy, just make some brackets to lift the front of the tank approx 50mm. It will really give you that Bobber look.

and make sure cables are nicely curved, don't want any kinks.

Ok Virago Heres a step by step.
First get a big thick towel or blanket and drape it over the petrol tank.
This protects the tank from dropped parts.
Second get a med size flat bladed screwdriver and poke it into the hole at the end of the left handle bar grip.keeping the blade flat to the handlebar push it up between the bar and the grip. Roll it right around the bar so it breaks the glue or the "bakedon" effect. At this point I actually blow compressed air down the gap created by the screwdriver to float the grip off the bar. You might have to make do with lots of wriggling with the screwdriver.-don't be tempted to use a lubricant like crc because its a bugger to clean off
Next get an Impact driver with a fine+ blade. Use the impact driver (hit it with a hammer of course) to loosen the 4 screws holding the switchblocks in place. With an older bike you are better to use an impact driver to undo the screws holding the switchblocks in place as it preserves the origonal slots. -Use a normal screwdriver after this time and you will end up with 40 shaped pits.
Next remove any zip ties holding the cables to the handlebars.
Next carefully undo the bolts holding the brake master cylinder onto the handlebars.the bracket will split in two -Put the part with the mirror on it to one side and carefully lower the master cylinder onto the tank.
Undo the screws holding the left switchblock in place -it will just split open and drop away.
next loosen the bolt holding the clutch asembily in place.
Next loosen the four bolts that hold the handlebar clamps in place.
( You may need to remove a plastic cover first. )
remove the two clamps.
Rotate the handlebars and there should be enough slack in the throttle cables to allow you to slide the clutch assembily off the end of the left bar.
Once you've done that then slide the throttle assembily/right switchblock off
Bingo its all in bits.
Next take a look at the bars to see if theres any holes drilled in them
If there are you will need to trial fit the bars and mark where to drill holes in the new set of bars-usually a 6.5mm drill bit is whats needed.
Reassembily is the exact reverse of dissasembily EXCEPT.tighten theclamps on the bars,clutch and brake in place enough so they are able to be rotated with effort. This lets you setup the angles you want on the controls.
Incidently I DON'Trecommend you fit flats to your XV.
My recommendation would be 2 inch raise with (from memory) a bout a 20 degree back angle on them.This was the factory bar for 250/350lc and the xj650.
The issue is that if you go for flats the switchblocks will most likely hit the tank on full lock.
The last bit of the setup is tidying up
You may find you need to change the angle of the brake line from the master cylinder.Provided you loosen the bolt only slightly you wont need to bleed the brakes.
Make sure cables are routed so they have smooth curves and reziptie the electrical cables in place.

WOW, cheers guys. Bars have arrived so will be fitting as soon as I have some spare time. Want to change riding position because sitting too upright at the moment and I get a sore tail bone after only about 20 mins so end up leaning foward to take the pressure off.

Also, what do you use for cable lubrication ( clutch, throttle)! cheers

I would have gone to a sports tourer myself.

Those bloody things like the Virago are so damned uncomfortable to me that a mooch around the block as part of WOF check is enough for me.

If you think it was giving your back grief before, you wait till you see the grief it is going to give you with the alternative bars as your back will now be bent like a banana due to existing foot peg placement etc.

I owned a 1100 Virago, my back used to get really sore as well. A shitty seat design. So I sold the bike and bought a Harley Tractor. Problem solved. LOL

Yep, I have found that with the Harley's, the japs have copied the Harley's with the cruiser styling etc, but don't seem to have got the ergonomics right. Maybe because they are mainly little chaps, who knows.

Brother went from an 04 Bandit to a Suzuki Boulevard, he only kept it for about 4 months. I tried to stop him buying it, but older brothers always know best even when they haven't done 5% of the motorcycling that you have done. After half a hour on that thing he reckoned he felt like a cripple and didn't want to go anywhere near it for a week or three.

My present employer has four motorcycles one of which is a 92 Kawasaki Vulcan . about 15 minutes on that thing is my whack, I simply cannot get comfortable on the thing and it constantly feels like I am using my lower back to support everything above it ! .a friend has an 09 Soft Tail that he lets all and sundry ride, including me lol, and I find it quite comfortable.

Well, got the bars on and just went a blat up the drive (farm) . All working ok, feels like a totally different bike to ride. Will need to take for a decent run when I get the chance to see how I like it. Certainly makes the bike look different. and I think I like it!

sorry to argue guys but the 81 XV can be ok once you roll the upper body forwards a bit.

drag bars have good action and are precise and easy to maintain!
SWEET AS!

why change!

Hey virago is yours the shaft drive or chain drive one!
I had the origonal one with the fully enclosed chaincase and the dinner plate headlight.

Looks good, I will take back what I posted previously. It looks like a set of bars have converted it into an almost sports tourer. The footpeg placement could still turn into a bit of an issue as their position is determined at the factory by the handlebar position. If it is a problem I can't imagine that a relocation of the pegs would be an insurmountable problem.

The other option will be to use the rear pegs for the longer straighter stints and go back to the front pegs when you hit the towns and the odd gear shift is required. These things have enough torque for gear shifts not to be required a lot of the time anyway

Ditch the seat for a solo one or make one yourself & get some fork boots or gattors(sp).
PS. I made gators for my CX500 from a pair of car stearing rack boots. You just cut each end to the dia. you need, slide on & secure with black cable ties. For a fraction of the cost & a good fit, you cant tell the diff & make the bike look 30 yrs older than it is. (it's already almost 30yrs old)

AHHHthat one.
I betcha really notice how the front end feels less vague

Nice, a mobile compressor . and I thought all of them other than the turbo's were now extinct lol

I'm thinking about putting bar end mirrors on her. Any one used these before and how did you find them!

I thought all those CX500c's had died by now.

I think you may notice a very slight performance difference Kaz lol

Love the seat but where is the padding is it on you