I went around the local autoshops and could only find 3 prong units so I'm assuming I'd have to wire 2 of these up to make all the lights work! None of packs had even a simple diagram or hint of the prong function, just the type and prong numbers which knowing zilch about flashers helped me none at all.
If I use 2 then the hazard would just be a common line for both right!, would they get out of sync after a while being seperate!
Also since ripco and the local supersheep were useless would I be better off at BNT getting a 4 prong unit, if so what kinda unit would I be looking at for doing 3 lights a side with one light being LED! (I measured and I'm drawing 3.5amps with lights on)
I've done some complex electrics but the simplicity of a flasher escapes me lol. It's a 2005 maxima, my body control module took a dump for the left hand side indicators, zip, zero, nada, all wiring is fine but the left just won't light even with hazards and I've tracked it to the BCM. Rather than pay $500+ for replacing, recoding to my ecu and fluffing about I'll just revert the wiring to standard flasher layout but I've honestly never had to bother since building racecars I normally remove this stuff, not install it.
It's possibly the stupidest system I've ever seen and so expensive to fix, I've opened it up and couldn't repair the BCM so going to revert to a reliable system. Start from scratch from the column back, thank god that's at least standard click on, click off signal and not some figgin steering angle magic box. The wiring for each side I've sorted so I know where to splice, I just dunno anything about flashers. Google has been mediocre at best, mostly people just plugging in a new flasher and going "there that's it!"
I'm confused, will tell you what I know in words I understand, maybe it will help somewhere
flashers use battery (B) in switch (L) out, switch then dictates left or right,some have a pilot (P) post which feeds a single warning lamp on dash ( older style - most now simply splice into each side to feed the relevant dash warning
they are amp sensitive, will only work at correct flash rate if both bulbs are working ( require approx 30w to work correctly hazards are usually powered by their own flasher unit - built to handle up to 80w and the internal wiring of that feeds direct to all lights, bypasses the switch altogether - so you need to slice in feeds for that if you'r running hazards
I'd be stripping out that left side yet again, bet ya knobs theres a short in it - wrong bulb or wrong connection at bulb holder ( split the left side from the bcm and hot wire a live feed into the left side (( with fuse)), must have lights or all your efforts are for nought
skin1235,
Dec 4, 5:14pm
I'm confused, will tell you what I know in words I understand, maybe it will help somewhere
flashers use battery (B) in,switch (L) out, switch then dictates left or right,some have a pilot (P) post which feeds a single warning lamp on dash ( older style - most now simply splice into each side to feed the relevant dash warning
they are amp sensitive, will only work at correct flash rate if both bulbs are working ( require approx 30w to work correctly hazards are usually powered by their own flasher unit - built to handle up to 80w and the internal wiring of that feeds direct to all lights, bypasses the switch altogether - so you need to splice in feeds for that if you're running hazards
I'd be stripping out that left side yet again, bet ya knobs theres a short in it - wrong bulb or wrong connection at bulb holder ( split the left side from the bcm and hot wire a live feed into the left side (( with fuse)), must have lights or all your efforts are for nought
Trust me, it's not a short, the BCM is fried. I've tested all the circuits and they're fine. The BCM recieves power, then won't output to the left side, I tested the resistance and then draw of the lights applying power directly and it's pulling the correct number of amps and has the right resistance, no shorts, lights work fine. My problem stems from this expensive little monster and it's taken a few days to dig it out of the depths of the car without breaking every plastic clip holding my interior and engine covers together; just whenever I had the patience to work on the thing. Even checking the bulbs on the left side is a royal pain because you have to disassemble the intake tract to get to the light housing. I'd get a used BCM but it has security codes for the ecu as well apparently. It's an impossible thing, hate it, rather use flasher units on a separate system.
aredwood,
Dec 4, 8:38pm
Use the circuit that budgel gave you to get the indicators working without the hazard switch. To use the hazard switch as well install http://www.hella.co.nz/3-261-458/product/ or see if your existing one has the same wiring. To wire this switch connect terminal 15 to switched power via a fuse. Connect 30 to always on power via another fuse. Connect 49 to the power input of the 3 terminal flasher, The lamp output of the flasher goes to both terminal 49a and the common terminal of the indicator switch. The Left and Right out terminals of the indicator switch go to your indicator lamps and to the L and R terminals of the hazard switch. 31 goes to earth.
The factory hazard switches in both my subaru and my toyota are the same as the hella one except the bulb inside the switch is completely separate from the other connections and is wired so it lights up when the instrument paned lights are on.
budgel,
Dec 5, 6:02pm
aredwood, are you any relation to Redwood auto electrical from Papatoetoe many years ago!
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