The best I have done is 140km in one hour, only in the SI (straight roads) and sitting on 180 when possible. ahhh those were the days.
msigg,
Mar 21, 5:37pm
Morrisman1 our Auto primera p10 does approx 2300rpm at 100km, the manual boxes always rev more, even on the pulsars. But yea thats good.
00quattro00,
Mar 22, 3:42pm
I get 1000km from 50l easily around town, can stretch it out quite far on the open rd
wrong2,
Mar 22, 3:47pm
it should be around 2550 - 2600
at least thats what my DE primera tacho is saying when sitting on 100
family has the DE P11 wagon, i have a P11 sedan - both 125 hp models
im getting mid 14 Km/L - familyis getting high 13 Km/L
91 N14 nissan pulsar GA16 with extractors i had previous was giving me mid 17 km/L (nana driving tho). . . . . . it was Extremely gunged up in the standard exhaust.
wrong2,
Mar 22, 3:49pm
the HF already was a 60 mpg car when it got released
US gallons
a few years earlier, Hondabrought out the City Turbo. that was a genuine 20 km/L car
wrong2,
Mar 22, 3:51pm
im interested in how you got your mileage - this is based on the odo right !
austingtir,
Mar 22, 4:02pm
Talk about nitpicking, the rev counters on all the nissans i have owned are between 100-250rpm inaccurate.I think they get more out the higher rpm you go. The reason i know this is i have set rpm limiters and launch control in chipped factory ecu's with modified firmware.
morrisman1,
Mar 22, 4:21pm
It was based on odometer, which I know is accurate based on the 8km odometer check outside invercargill. 2550-2600rpm would probably be for the 3.8:1 diff models, which are around. this is a 4.1:1 diff. I think all, or most of the 3.8:1 diff came in 1.8L models.
That old sentra of mine over-read the odometer too, by about 0.3km over 8km from memory, so its economy figures would have been optimistic ever so slightly.
wrong2,
Mar 22, 4:54pm
its not at all, the RPM an engine runs at has a lot to do with the economy you can get from it
plus theres a desire to know what box / final drive hes running
wrong2,
Mar 22, 4:58pm
both mine & familys Primeras are the 2.0, & are reading the same 2600 at 100 in both
ive read in the past the weight diff between the P11 sedan & wagon is around 90 kg
this thread really got me interested because just a couple of weeks ago i bought a good compression P11 SR-VE myself, will be going thru the swap soon & have been wondering about the torque curve / consumption differences between them & the DE's
wrong2,
Mar 22, 5:01pm
is what it should have read
austingtir,
Mar 22, 5:45pm
Bin the factory headers and all that junk and invest in a set of the cheap as ssac style headers on ebay.They were even an improvement on my sr16ve n1 which have slightly better headers than the 20ve's.My setup was that then 2.5" thru resonator to the rear and an apexi world sport 2 muffler which are factory quiet until you really put the foot down.
It will be night and day difference to a stock de.I put a 20ve motor in a gtir with the stock gtir turbo.The response with factory compression on the stock gtir turbo is insane they just choke up at about 6000rpm as you really want a much larger turbo than a t28 with a stock compression ve .
I suggest you run it on your de ecu they are much easier to chip than ve ecu's.Im one of very few people that have done the ve ecu's. they are not worth the headache.
wrong2,
Mar 22, 5:48pm
i make my own extractors
you cant buy proper ones "off the shelf" - they have to be hand made
you wouldnt believe what was in the standard GA16 muffler - it was eye popping
im sure the 125 hp DE would be opened up dramatically - but i was worried by how lean they run
a proper extractor makes a large difference to the mixture
wrong2,
Mar 22, 5:50pm
i got a full loom & ECU with the engine - your saying the DE is the better option !
ive read that the VE computer needs a "daughterboard" to be remappable
austingtir,
Mar 22, 6:00pm
They both need a daughter board.Its just the DE ecu is far less of a headache to tune and find the actual daughterboard itself.I got both of mine from japan.
The ve runs bigger injectors and different maf so you have to chip the de ecu.Buy a nismotronic unit they are the best you can buy and well worth it.To switch the cams you buy rpm activated switches or use the nismotronic which has adc outputs.
The DE ecu will not run your ve by just wiring it up because the maf and injectors are different size.You must chip it for it to work.
Im really just trying to sway you to start with the DE ecu and chip it because its more betterer.It will seem like more work but in the end its well worth it.
If you want a cheap daughterboard for a DE ecu i can sell you one BUT its an old school UV erase eprom style thing and its not for somebody that does not have some electronics ability.
I also have binarys and addresses for most sr-16-20-ve-det-whatever engines.
wrong2,
Mar 22, 6:25pm
Nismotronic look like they are based in the states !
they have a rep / dealer here in NZ !
austingtir,
Mar 22, 6:30pm
Dealer i highly doubt it.They have been developing it over the last 4 years or so.
You buy the daughterboard kit off there website.Just take it to and electronics store for the soldering or send it to me.Anybody with a wideband can do the basics.And any dyno tuning outfit should be able to tune with the nismotronic software no problem.
wrong2,
Mar 22, 6:41pm
yeah i know im going to want to get it properly mapped, ill be running the engine stock internally, but with a custom intake & exhaust its going to bebreathing radically different
austingtir,
Mar 22, 6:47pm
On a stock ve ecu the intake and exhaust wont matter.You certainly wont damage anything and it will run better.Maf based cars are generally not as bad as map cars for changes like that.
wrong2,
Mar 22, 6:51pm
well that was the plan, to just get it wired up & running initially, but if my past behavior is anything to go by - i cant help myself
morrisman1,
Mar 22, 7:23pm
The factory VE headers are actually very good, but the secondaries are far too long, they want to be shortened a bit to open up the top end. Ideally some custom ones as nothing off the shelf is really any good, and its all expensive.
The VE has a strange torque curve, its really really flat. They don't feel all that fast but when you look at the needles you are certainly moving. The one in the race car pulls exactly the same at 3500rpm as it does at 8000rpm. Its great as you don't have to worry too much about the powerband as its so wide.
Im running a n14 SSS ecu in my VE wagon, it has a daughterboard and tuned to suit the ve engine. The race car is running a VE ecu daughterboarded and tuned to suit. Can't say which would be better as they are not comparable but the SSS ecu with daugherboard and tune was the same price as doing the VE daugherboard as the boards are far far cheaper. You don't need an SSS ecu to do it but it allows individual cam control as well as air con control. The non-SSS ecu you have to ditch air con and switch both cams at the same time.
I wouldn't bother with intake until you go to something bigger than n1 cams. The standard intake is OK up to about 230hp they say. It gets very expensive very quickly after that.
wrong2,
Mar 23, 7:37am
no wonder you are getting such good mileage, you have a proper fuel map. the DE run super lean, i stuck the colder sparkplugs in because they had next to no colour at all on the standard ones
that ECU in your wagon, N14 as in Pulsar SSS ! which is why ill be happy with the 20VE cams. it will spend the majority of its life under 5000.
goldilocks64,
Mar 23, 8:07am
13 miles to the gallon in my 56 chevy truck. 283 4 speed man 4.1.1 diff never changes open road or round town
thewomble1,
Mar 24, 11:41pm
To average around 100km/h you must have broken the speed limit.
austingtir,
Mar 25, 3:13pm
^^ There is always one clown that has to give his two cents.
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