If I can just butt in for a minute to ask the brake experts a question. about how much fluid will I need to buy to do a flush on a Falcon E series? Reading this thread got me thinking, that's a job I've been meaning to do for a long while.
franc123,
Dec 29, 10:58pm
Buy two 500ml bottles, you will need both if its got ABS and the fluid is real old. If you aren't 100% on how to do it best you get someone involved who does, it can be frustrating if you get air trapped. Be careful with the front bleed nipples on those not to snap them off, if nobody has touched them for years they could be blocked up or siezed in there, they should be removed and a small drill bit run though them BY HAND to get the hard dirt out of them then blow them out with air and refit. They're shockers for it due to the dead vertical mount of the nipple in the caliper.
gazzat22,
Dec 30, 1:27pm
BUT it did fix the problem didnt it ? and no i didnt suggest the old fluid be reused.If and when the calipers need stripping etc just clamp the hoses!
2sheddies,
Dec 30, 3:38pm
Brilliant advice and knowledge as always franc. much appreciated. Have someone I can call on if need be. Cheers!
marte,
Dec 31, 5:46am
That's not 'dirt'. Its rust. Caused by water in the brake fluid. Bleeding the brakes by pushing the pedal down all the way will make the master cylinder piston go past this rust, dislodging it and ruining the rubber seals. Also, the rust will keep coming down the brake lines with the new fluid. If you vacuum pump the fluid out of the bleed nipple, there's no tighten/loosen/tighten/loosen of the nipple. So therefore no air bubbles. Also you will get away with a rusted master cylinder bore as the piston seals will not go past the rust. And the fluid will come out clean suddenly, and the seals will remain intact. New incoming brake fluid will slide past the seals in the master cylinder, under suction. Change the color of the brake fluid so you know exactly when it starts coming thru.
marte,
Dec 31, 5:57am
The extra braking activity downhill has overheated the front brake pads. This heat has got to the fluid in the brake hose and boiled it. The steam pressure has increased until its pushed the front brake pads onto the front discs. At the same time its pushing back on the master cylinder pushing the pedal back up and locking it there. The drivers stopped, the fluids cooled down, steams turned back into water, letting pressure off the front brake pads and pedal and everything's came right again. After a scary experience. And a good reminder to change brake fluid every 2 years, by the 'vacuum method' only.
Or get a proper brake shop to do it for you. it takes only a few minutes as they have a special brake fluid master cylinder topping up device that keeps the resiviour topped up all the time, meaning that there's no chance of air bubbles and its a 'one man' job.
Having bought a new(ish) car a few months ago. I am going to change my fluid now too, using a vacuum pump. Thankyou
marte,
Dec 31, 6:05am
If there's 'dirt' on the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir, its probably easier to suck out the fluid and clean the dirt out first. Then top it up with the new brake fluid.
I guess that the cleaning can only be done with actual new brake fluid/paper towels?, putting a solvent in there's a bad idea. Depends on the shape of the reservoir I suppose.
mrfxit,
Dec 31, 7:02am
99% of the time, that "Dirt" is rubber residue from the master cylinder brake seals. If it's only a light film in the bottom, then the cylinder is probably ok. If theres a thick layer of black residue, then the seals are very close to giving up & even closer to failing (or fail now) once you disturb it by bleeding the system. Rust from internal steel parts won't normally appear inside the master cylinder tank but will settle somewhere down the line.
The fluid goes dark for several reasons. .
#1: Seal wear #2: sever overheating #3: internal rust. #4: cap left off tank for several months in dusty conditions #5: rubber brake hose perishing
#1 cause is seal wear (rubber dust in fluid) Along with sever seal wear, is cylinder wall wear adding dust to the fluid.
mrfxit,
Apr 12, 7:33pm
Most common problems with sticking cylinders is >>>>>
#1: rusty caliper pistons #2: build up of damp/caked on dust around the caliper piston & seal #3: loose caliper causing unevenly worn pads (or badly assembled caliper from last pad change) #4: warped rotor causing unevenly worn pads
Each of the above can slightly twist the caliper piston in it's cavity or outright stick
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