This study its related to the nightmare case study i will tell you once you did read this my case is similar but with a much different outcome. I did not replace a pump that was not broken for example . read this case study to come to therms what sort of knowhow you require to make the right calls on what now even is old diesel engines yes another failed toyota , its just happened to be a toyota i did not pick it it just relates to my case on the mazda capella diesel http://www.aecs.net/techniek2015/may-dyna.pdf
m16d,
Jul 4, 10:11am
Just as a matter of interest,how many K's to you reckon that Toyota had done.
intrade,
Jul 4, 10:54am
RE# 2 i dont want to guess that part or how well or bad it was maintained till it failed.
chas10,
Jul 4, 10:58am
How come it only misfired when it was hot?
intrade,
Jul 4, 11:06am
Anyhow this mazda capella diesel direct injector RF-2G 2,0 diesel of a client had gone to a fancy whangarei diagnostic place , the problem was lack of power the longer he drives the vehicle . They diagnosed it to be a broken diesel injector pump and claimed it also had a wire on the timing control valve shorting so they put on some diy crimps on to the wiring and charged the guy 560$ it then came to my place for the supposed repair. I said no problem i pull the pump apart and see what is broken suspecting a seezed timing adjuster plunger since this fancy shop with all the wizbang scanners and stuff had diagnosed the pump to be faulty. i done a few quick tests drive and it seemed plausible that it might be the pump so no further testing was done because of the diagnosis these professional looking shop made.
intrade,
Jul 4, 11:13am
when i did rev it it had sputterd and coughed black clouds of smoke and was at times running ok again. Now removing the pump requires the removal of the timing belt. when i was moveing the settings to tdc i noticed the timing belt was loose! there was no real tension on the belt. So i suspected part of the problem was a faulty timing belt tensioner and it was faulty when we had it all removed , i sent the owner to get a new tensioner and belt etc we needed the tensioner for sure and normally you do the belt also even if its not due. The timing belt tensioner was orderd by mazda whangarei and then it was the wrong item they got from japan 14 days wait. But dont worry it gets plenty worse soon.
intrade,
Jul 4, 11:25am
the timing belt tensionar was available in nz for something just over 200$ the timing belt he did not replace as that was 400+$ because it had a few more teeth in lenght then all other mazda diesel belts and was another ex japan item all over. So in the mean time i had the pump stipped and found noting wrong with the pump what so ever mechanic hydraulically. Anyhow We got the tensionar and old not due for replacment belt back on and it made sense to the owner why he paid so much money for the timing belt service and the tensioner was obviously not exchanged the last time.
intrade,
Jul 4, 11:32am
Now it was running no missfire black smoke coughing randomly but it was now fully down on power in the higher rpm. So i said i need a wiring diagramm and do mesurments with my scope as that diagnosis is completly wrong it seems from what we found . So i plug in my diagnostic tool to see if there is any codes on data link obd1 connector - i got no comunication but that car also uses flashcodes right. so i read out the flash codes on dashboard . about 7 codes where in there no way to clear them and they did not make sense but one was egr code . i was still hunting for a wiring diagramm to no avail. So i put the car on hold for the client thinking who knows how long this might take . i have a youtube video showing the egr functions perfectly so why is the code in there and why cant i erase it and why is it a permanent code? hmmmmmmm
intrade,
Jul 4, 11:46am
There is one more symptom a clicking noise when the ignition is on . the clicking is on the timing control valve on the pump and since that part controlls the pump timing i mesured with my pico-automotive scope what it does by backprobing the sensor. the reording shows the computer wants to change the pattern, but there is this spike even when it runs on the pattern the same spike this clicking noise causes on the timing control valve with just ignition on. So because it is controlling the valve and nothing is happening and the pump is fine i make the call the timing control valve must be a dead component. So i go mazda, should have knowen that be a aste of time lol. Anyhow mazda parts guy did his job comes back we cant get you that part only new pump 4000$ upwards. i said ok thank you we only need the faulty part do and left. Went to the local diesel place and said we need that part to speed things up i tell him he wants the car back on the road. the guy tells me it cant be that urgent as that car was in there for diagnosing a problem . looks up and no matching part only similar one ex japan 500$+
So hmmm i just did learn this fancy place got somone else to try and do there work and both did not exactly diagnose the problem right as far as i could tell. So on went the hunt for a simple denso part for a mazda . i did find and order it on ebay with the oem number from denso on the valve from a opel who also uses that same valve as this mazda. 175$ only shipped in germany no problem the guy is german so his mother sent it over .
differentthings,
Jul 4, 11:48am
Sorry I didn't relies you were still typing. bugger for the owner.
differentthings,
Jul 4, 11:51am
You could try swapping out the engine ECU, apart from that good luck
intrade,
Jul 4, 12:01pm
ok so i fit this part and Grrrr that friggen clicking was still there! took it for a test drive drove fine up to 100kph now so it was a fix, but no! it was not fixed the glowplug light was still flashing all its codes it always had from the day it got to me. in the mean time i had a wiring diagramm found on a russian website after using google translate the wiring diagram was for only Diesel injection electronic function. i did not have the pin data on the computer. Because now it was not fixed and i told the client i cant let you have it back because something destroyed the old valve i just replaced and its only a matter of time till this new part is also possibly nuked. So i find the engine computer and try to find pin data for it nothing to be found and i was not going to fork out more money as far as it went for me it was still scrap metal value at this stage with a flashing diagnostic light . So i mesured all the wires from what was on the timing control valve i ohmed em out and once i had the wire on the engine harness conector near the engine i backprobed it and done all the testing for shorts high resistance all was fine wiring wise to there.
So was it maybe the relay power and grounds to the ecu? i made a new earth wire from the ecu housing in case that matterd to have accurate readings I used the multimeter and dan sullivans load pro loaded test tool to do a voltage drop test from relay to ecu , there where 2 relays one had a slight voltage drop show, but no where near enough to call it the cause a problem with the engine computer.
intrade,
Jul 4, 12:05pm
so there was only the short bit of wiring from the harness connector thru the firewall to the ecu i could not mesure as i did not know what pin was feeding what in to the ecu. looking at the wiring phisically all looked good undameged and i unpluged the transmission computer and the clicking was still there i ruled with 90% sure but not 100% the engine computer is faulty and the cheapest option is to find a secoundhand computer.
intrade,
Jul 4, 12:08pm
now there is about 5 different computers for the same make model of mazda diesel . i know from mazda they are a nightmare for 100 different parts on the same make and model and year. We never did find a secoundhand ecu for it he had one in holland and i had found one but it was a manual gearbox so there was a plug missing and that would not have worked. So the client finds these other diagnostic place in kamo and tells me they can fix it and it was most probably not the computer!
intrade,
Jul 4, 12:10pm
i went there with him to see what this guy knows and i let him show me his tools , once i seen a scope from aecs under his bench i did know he is most probably not talking crap as he claimed they could repair the ecu.
intrade,
Jul 4, 12:12pm
Anyhow the car was loaded on a transporter to them and then they done there thing and said its probably not the ecu but cant rule it out one more test to be done . i was thinking geez if its not the computer then i missed something but what.
intrade,
Jul 4, 12:15pm
after 2 weeks the client rings me its repaired it was the ecu after all, and they did not put the ecu back because a cover was missing, i assumed they did not figure how to put it back on the plate whom i had left in the boot and said come back here i want to look inside the ecu anyhow to see what they repaired. i had tested the ecu caps and they where fine so it must have been something else they repaired.
intrade,
Jul 4, 12:18pm
i soon found the component they exchanged as you cant solder as good as factory and this is the data sheet of the component http://www.datasheetarchive.com/dlmain/Datasheets-4/DSA-61107.pdf now that stuff is mostly still gibberish but i can see its for diagnostic code responsible item.
budgel,
Jul 4, 12:26pm
Does the place in Kamo do all types of ECU work including remapping? or just the electronics?
intrade,
Jul 4, 12:27pm
i want to one day also be able to repair and programm engine ecu etc , but for now i am just happy my diagnosis was correct. You have to learn how to walk before you can run. Would have been a bummer if i missed something as i am the last guy calling a ecu faulty from what i have learned in all the expensive training classes.
Also i did not charge the client anything this last bill was another 750$ he gave my 2 trailer loads of wood so far and still thinks he owes me something. I said dont buy a fkn mazda again that would help .
Now you cant blame the last guy whom fixed the ecu they done all the tests again to try and proof me wrong as they said its not the ecu most likely. My fix of fitting a secoundhand ecu would have worked it has had no anti theft chip in key so swaping ecu was easy if we could only find a correct one.
intrade,
Jul 4, 12:32pm
they concluded the problem of destroyed electronics did come from a previously failed alternator , as i had no answer to why it was faulty i was just 90% sure it was having something wrong inside it. there is one thing i also did not like . there is a bear wire joint on the alternator and they also did not repair this joint even do you can clearly see the bear wire , i had left it there so to not hide a potential cause of the problem.
intrade,
Jul 4, 12:44pm
no idea they are right next to kamo testing station tech something name
intrade,
Jul 4, 12:52pm
possible because the timing is temperature dependeing. if you read it he writes about the blame the guy would have been getting for messing with the temperature to alter timing, when it then blew up a few months later in the article sometimes a fix is not a fix , just like i could not let my clinet drive the car with a suspected faulty engine ecu. Because the alternator damaged the ecu then the ecu damaged the timing control valve by pulsing it nonstop and the faulty timing belt tensioner was just a extra unrelated problem also messing with it all. this stuff is far worse on commorails where one thing nukes the next and no sysmptoms to driver till its finally all nuked . ignoring a check engine light on modern cars is a bad idea. And codes are not parts to replace as i proofed all over .
ceebee2,
Jul 4, 12:59pm
Wow, that is an interesting and complicated story of your favourite saying "swapatrons" at their worst.
frytime,
Jul 4, 2:15pm
I normally give Intrades posts a miss. But that's pretty good going. Thumbs up
Since the public registrations are closed, you must have an invite from a current member to be able to register and post in this thread.
Have an account? Login here.