Timing issue?

franc123, Mar 2, 6:25pm
Set the base timing to what it should be and leave it there, the sticker on the underside of the bonnet will be the most accurate source of what it should be. As for what the problem is, coil be a dirty air flow meter, a split duct between the airbox and throttle body or maybe an ignition problem such as leaking spark plug lead tubes. Intake manifold gaskets are also known to fail too. All common issues on those.
gmphil, Mar 2, 6:25pm
back to basic,s pull plugs in check condition of them the leads in the coils
strobo, Mar 3, 4:41am
Check and set the basics first ,idle screw in the throttle body 1 to 1/12 turns out, check for slack in the cam belt , whip the cover off looksie, those engines are known to wear in the crank key too worth checking.and and air induction side hoses all good and secure no splits etc, fit new leads regardless.being an auto the timing is critical to be spot on . At idle only( white mark the timing marks) static no advance to disconnect just simply chuck on a timing light and at - below 1000 rpm -10 deg btdc seems to be it iv'e found on the green fuel.
martin11, Mar 3, 1:17pm
We had one of these cars and the coil is in the distributor and it failed 2x on us within 12 months , suspected a power surge but could never find where from . Got rid of the car .
tamarillo, Mar 3, 2:45pm
OP hasn't got your old car?
bigfatmat1, Mar 3, 4:07pm
Check intake pipe for splits. Needs or be removed to inspect properly #9 the coil will fail due to a high resistance on the secondary side. you were looking for a cause that was not the cause any power surges which are unlikely would damage other electronic components before a coil
intrade, Mar 3, 5:13pm
re #12

i have this problem i dont remember engine codes and stuff i work with what is in front of me.
bigfatmat1 wrote good information
i would like to know is this a carburettor or injected engine?
that already will rule the dice 80% to one side
snoopy221, Mar 3, 5:28pm
Methink it is about time the original poster READ the first TWO replies re spark plug leads and advised condition of same and checking method of same.
snoopy221, Mar 3, 5:34pm
back to basic,s pull plugs in check condition of them the leads in the coils

Quote

gmphil (761 761 positive feedback) 8:25 pm, Sun 1 Mar #2

maybe an ignition problem such as leaking spark plug lead tubes. . All TOO common issues on those.

Edited by franc123 at 8:28 pm, Sun 1 Mar

Quote

franc123 (311 311 positive feedback) 8:25 pm, Sun 1 Mar #3
snoopy221, Mar 3, 5:39pm
Coil over plug if i recall and the poor old aged bakelite insulating material cracks and dies.
Without major test gear a simple basic is remove coils and plugs rewire as operational tie an earth wire on the plugs and earth them and have an assistant crank engine over-any leakage that was not visible as a crack on visual inspection will show as a spark tracking.
Simple wetting of them and repeat test procedure will further eliminate or FULLY identify a VERY COMMON issue

Kapeesh?
franc123, Mar 3, 5:40pm
So you put a new intake tube on? How does it run now?
intrade, Mar 3, 5:55pm
probably a map sensore engine then.
you want it fixed ring aecs.net and let the office women give you a adress of a professional trained workshop in wellington.
snoopy221, Mar 3, 5:58pm
flick an ohm meter over them should be no more than say 11000 ohms
Some lead sets are not crimped that well and can have high resistance.
snoopy221, Mar 3, 6:13pm
Q? are we talking more roughness at idle-or a roughness (like a misfire) on load-or a surge-lack of power when driving
franc123, Mar 3, 6:54pm
No, remember you are also reading the resistance through the leads too, touch the probes together and take that reading off the reading you got when measuring the coil. The big fault with that test on that type of lead is that it doesn't tell you if the spark has been shorting to the head or down the plug, there were definitely no grey or black lines down the plug insulators or grey spots on the outside of the lead tubes?
strobo, Mar 3, 7:04pm
Just saying ive seen leads pulled and the broken end left and the new lead fitted squashed to fit inside the broken piece , after time an insulated barrier ( green stuff) forms between the boken pieces and contact is lost thus causing a miss under load or on a wet day.Which was the case with a mazda familia auto last friday. (took me 1/2 an hour to dig it out) and also he had duct tape around a split in the intake pipe , which was leaking on the underside, the owner swore black and blue till I took it off and showed him . and went on from there till all was fixed.Once you get past fixing everyone elses handy work then you find the job getting a little bit easier .
strobo, Mar 3, 7:25pm
Then there is always the fuel pump to consider.
snoopy221, Mar 3, 7:29pm
yip and compressionals and again ignitionary-being worse when cold.
But yeah i would be heading to a comp and fuel pump pressure and flow test.
Thing being EFI pumps don't like low fuel tanks as they rely on fuel to cool them and . mmmmm
strobo, Mar 3, 7:51pm
tThat's just a continuity check ! Nothing to gauge from that .
Coil or coils are best checked under running conditions.
skin1235, Mar 4, 5:02pm
and the compression figures are?
ceebee2, Mar 22, 11:53am
Spray CRC around area with engine running. will speed up when you find the leak.
mechnificent, Apr 20, 12:19am
If a car won't run evenly when in the diagnostic or timing modes then I'd be checking the compressions and valve clearances, vacuum leaks etc. Mechanical faults. They should idle smoothly and steady when in timing mode, it's much the same as start mode and they lock most of the variables that were running and doing constant adjustments to keep the idle ok when normal run mode. Now they have been disabled the inherent mechanical fault is showing up. one weak compression or an air leak or faulty injector possibly on one cylinder.