I wanna make a velocity stack for an intake tube, wanna use PVC cos its light, easy to work with and Ive got lots lying around so it means its free. Ive made a cold air intake to replace the headlight and just need to do the fitting in the rear of it to attach the pipe which will go to the stock airbox to, knowing the flow benefits of having a velocity stack I definetely want to have one in there.
So anyway, how hot will the downpipe have to be for me to form it over a shape to get the velocity stack shape?
skin1235,
Apr 14, 4:58pm
no idea, but cut a small piece off and put it in the oven, watch carefully through the glass and note at what temp it begins to droop
suspect about 180 degrees
mechnificent,
Apr 14, 4:59pm
I've poured boiling water over it to put gentle bends in it. I'd imagine if you stuck the end into boiling water it would go really floppy. If water wasn't hot enough, you could use oil, which can get near four hundred degrees. so that should do it Hehe.
NZTools,
Apr 14, 4:59pm
a heat gun gets it soft enough.
morrisman1,
Apr 14, 5:01pm
nice, now to find the shape to mould it on. if only I had a wood lathe it would be piece of cake.
skin1235,
Apr 14, 5:06pm
wet sand in a plastic bag?
aj.2.,
Apr 14, 5:11pm
To flare the end, Use a heat gun, then use a round bar on socket handle and rotate that , it will spread the end, or find a tin that is the right size and work the heated PVC over that,. Re heat as you go, but note, when it is heated the pvc is too easy to bend and can go soft on one side more than other, so may not be straight / in true line .
cabrio1,
Apr 14, 5:32pm
Depending in the diameter of the pipe you could use a towbal to flare the end.
Yep or a wine bottle. Drink the wine first, at least you won't care if it works or not
skin1235,
Apr 14, 5:56pm
thats a lot of stretch, you'll want a thick walled pipe to start with or the final product may have paper thin walls and fail
but again, if you started with say 80mm downpipe, cut a section and split it lengthways, use whatever heat required to get a flat sheet, you may find it easier to shrink to the mold rather than stretch to it
rejoining it is easy, a piece of hot angle iron heated from beneath until the cut surfaces just crumple, remove the iron and push them together, hold for a few seconds one job I did was laying 23km of water line on a dairy conversion, all in 200mt lengths, an old docking iron ( hollow so flame into center ), could get both sides on to surface at the same time and I'm too cheap to pay for a pipe welder at $1200 that flattens your ute battery in about 10 minutes when tested ( yes I did test a few) the pipes pulled apart on anchor points, not the welds
morrisman1,
Apr 14, 6:25pm
I just need to create a bit of a velocity stack shape, it doesn't need to stretch over the whole lot. Nothing lost from trying so will report back in 15 mins with the result
zak410,
Apr 14, 6:40pm
hotter than boiling water, hot oil about 120° I was told, for plastic pipes.
cabrio1,
Apr 14, 6:43pm
How about putting boiling water in the bottle and a heat gun. 15 minutes is up.
morrisman1,
Apr 14, 7:23pm
Had to get the oil up to 180 deg to get it to behave how I wanted, and only dipped the last inch in, otherwise it bend in other places too. Good thing its thermoplastic and you just dip it back in the hot oil to have another go.
Ive seen people use those steel cake tins that make the round donut shaped cakes with the hole in the middle. the middle bit makes a good buck for flaring pvc. just dont let ya missus find out
jason_247,
Apr 15, 12:27pm
if its still removable round off the edges rather than having them sharp, proper places usually either roll the edge back around or just smooth it out.
all for that extra 1%
phalanax,
Mar 13, 9:45pm
Used to make pvc furniture. we used cooking oil and for flaring we used shaped and smoothed solid aluminium and just poured cold water over it when it was the right shape. as long as the shape your pressing it onto is sturdy and smooth it should work
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