i am currently trying to replace the timing belt on a 2000 1.3 mazda demio, i have done one on this engine before but the problem is on this car the crank pulley bolt is behind the metal inner wheel guard, have an impact but i dont even think i can get a breaker bar on this one. how can i remove this? cheers
mm12345,
Oct 4, 10:17am
Are you sure there's not a removable panel in the guard? The way you've described it, even if you could get the nut off with a breaker bar and cranking, how would you get the nut torqued back up?
gmphil,
Oct 4, 10:21am
im a bit miffed ! most fwd cars the height of the motor make the crank below this line ! if u jack up take of wheel ul either remove inner guard and it should be all visible in accessible if not there should be a hole with a rubber bung that u remove in stick long extension thru to get to bolt !
zmnewzealand,
Oct 4, 10:52am
its all metal ill try get a pic of it i cant even get the pulley off or a socket on it as its too close, what about maybe taking a engine mount off and trying to lower engine slightly?
intrade,
Oct 4, 10:59am
take a few pictures from different angles so we can figure out and tell you how its done , upload to iforce and give links here http://www.iforce.co.nz/
worse case, some cars i've seen where they drop out the sub frame, motor and driveline, to get access to it. easy enough with a hoist, real pain doing it at home.
a bit smaller. its just out of reach mayby 2-4cm too high i managed to get the little bolts around it off. cheers
intrade,
Oct 4, 11:06am
sometimes you have to lower the engine off its mounts downwards or upwards to remove parts , i think my tipo diesel pulley for waterpump is such a bitch where you only can remove the bolts and pulley if you push the whole engine upwards above the chassy frame and then to remember to do the same on reassembly as you cant get the bolts in or out no room on reassembly its where vw audi are a breeze to work 40 minutes whole front is off and you got unlimmited axesss apart from the dangeling aircon radiator that you cant disconnect
intrade,
Oct 4, 11:12am
put a block of wood under the sump and a jack pump the jack up so its taking the waight then remove engine mount and start to lower the engine . then you can get on with the rattle gun. make sure you have good fitting impact socket
zmnewzealand,
Oct 4, 11:13am
will give it a try. thanks
mm12345,
Oct 4, 11:20am
From those photos, dropping the mount should do it easily I expect. Taking weight of the mount to remove it and lining it up to refit it might be the hassle - if you don't have a trolley jack or engine crane or block and tackle.
zmnewzealand,
Oct 4, 11:38am
i have removed the engine mount by the alternator but still half a bolt to high can i take off another while still supporting engine from below or would that need a crane to support from above? cheers?
zmnewzealand,
Oct 4, 11:39am
or could i get away with cutting a hole and getting a grommet to fit to make it look factory? was hoping to be finished by lunch :(. cheers
zmnewzealand,
Oct 4, 11:46am
i do have a second trolley jack if that helps? cheers
intrade,
Oct 4, 12:12pm
just lower the jack so the engine hangs and check where the stress points are and then bounce the engine to force it lower , i never had any problem to bring engines low enough.
the only thing i wonder can you see on inside of frame is there a hole in the frame? and somone welded a sheet metal in to the wheel arch over a potential hole from outside? because you normally have a factory hole or the engine lowering is enough. these are the 2 options i usually have to take .
elect70,
Oct 4, 12:44pm
That would be my solution cut it big enough to fit socket through it
llortmt,
Mar 29, 1:14pm
Ok I can't be bothered reading all the crap above or looking at photos. Take the engine mount off, drop the engine as far as it goes, the chassis leg is now not in the way but a bit of the steel inner guard/splash guard is right? Carefully bend it out the way, undo the bolt/do the job and bend it back afterwards. Or Undo all the engine mounts and remove the cross-member and drop the engine down low enough. I know which option I choose and if done carefully it leaves no damage on a section of inner guard that is just a splash panel and has not structural function.
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