the right direction as to the torque specs and tightening sequence for the exhaust manifold? I'm replacing the crusty old thing with a set of headers. 2.6 petrol engine. Also, should I use a gasket goo of some sort or put both manifold and flange gaskets on dry? If so, what do you recommend? Copper sealant I was thinking? Cheers in advance.
2sheddies,
Jul 9, 11:43pm
Anyone know the answer to these questions?
bjmh,
Jul 10, 12:42am
Dry gasket ,clean all surfaces. never seize on all threads. waste of time torqueing those. just work from the centre out. use a 3/8 drive ratchet so you can't wring their necks.
esky-tastic,
Jul 10, 1:38am
If any any imperfections anywhere a smear of CRC Maniseal will fix things, it expands as it hardens and is easy to scrape off if you ever take things apart.
And after installing exhaust a quick wipe with a damp rag wil clean up any excess ( before it hardens) to make for a tidy appearance.
Orange hi-temp RTV is also good but the excess oozing out around the manifold looks amateurish and it’s hard to clean up
No need for a gasket if using either of the above.
2sheddies,
Jul 10, 1:57am
Oh okay, so Maniseal alone is going to stop any leaks? Smear it lightly on the head and the extractors or just on one surface? I'm used to using gaskets so this is new to me. Cheers for the advice so far, I will do as you suggest bjmh and use 3/8 drive to tighten.
Of course, I have to get the old one off yet. It's not looking too bad rust wise and I've been soaking each stud in penetrating fluid for several days while using the ute, so it's been heated and cooled multiple times, I haven't got access to an oxy acetylene set so hoping for no hassles.
bjmh,
Jul 10, 2:55am
Patience is your friend when undoing old ones,i usually use a wire brush then heaps of elbow grease on the gasket surfaces with emery tape. i would still use a gasket and as stated . if its not a good surface ,maniseal it.Some of the new header flanges aren't exactly flat. they warp when welded.Put the face of a hammer against one flat of the nut and gentle tap on the opposite face with a smaller hammer will usually shift the rust.
snoopy221,
Jul 10, 3:25am
Only advice i'll give at this point is simply invest in a good impact 6 point socket-and a bar not a ratchet-as being able to loosey loosey turn and penetrating oil and tighty tighty loosey tighty WILL help in removing.
esky-tastic,
Jul 10, 3:49am
Yep, it will fill a gap of up to 2mm in my experience. ( two warped flanges on the headers)
2sheddies,
Jul 10, 4:12am
Well, getting the old manifold off turned out to be a non event. I use a mixture of ATF and engine oil in my cans and works brilliantly as a penetrant. It looks as though I've got to drop the gearbox crossmember to get the extractors in and lined up. In just cut the pipe on old one as not reusing it. Run out of light now so concentrating on undoing beer bottles instead.
Thank you for all the contributions, fantastic advice. I'm noting it all down.
2sheddies,
Jul 10, 4:18am
Yeah mate, having the right gear certainly helps, and I was all set up but I didn't need it as it turned out. I couldn't believe how easily everything came undone. In fact a couple of the nuts were barely more than finger tight! Getting the bastard of a pipe up and out of the engine bay was the hardest part! I was trying to get out of having to drop the crossmember, but I think I'm going to have to or the headers won't go in.
jrlaw,
Jul 10, 6:54pm
Replace the outer studs with next size larger ones, back one often broke. Long time since I fixed one of those for sure.
elect70,
Jul 11, 12:23am
Funny thing I was watching Gas Monkey guys last nigh t on turbo & they put on intake manifold on SBC with no gaskets just plastered it with goop, not good . .
Used a new gasket together with a liberal amount of Maniseal as I couldn't get the flange on the headers as smooth as I would have liked. No leaks so far, real happy with it. The high temp engine paint didn't last long though hahaha! Cheers to everyone for the advice and tips.
snoopy221,
Jul 11, 4:12am
Saves image-opens and enlarges
NOTES.
No spring washers just standard issue common garden 12 mill headed 8x1.25 threaded metric shouldered nuts. Simply advises for the cost of a couple of bucks of nuts to simply add another 7 nuts as lock nuts (Like the one on ya earth is) Will only take ya a few minutes as even if they are the genuine exhaust nuts with the ridging on the shoulder EXPERIENCE leads one to the FACT that the heating and cooling of extractors is different to a thick cast iron manifold
And ya dinnae want ya nutzzzcumin loose.
2sheddies,
Jul 11, 4:33am
Yeah sorry about that snoops, bigger photo wouldn't bloody upload. I'll definitely do that mate, lose nuts are never good. Nice tip cheers. Reasonable upgrade for the old girl.
toyboy3,
Jul 11, 4:59am
That water hose looks like is going to blow
2sheddies,
Jul 11, 5:05am
Haha, god knows how long that's been there. Starting to tidy up in the engine bay and get rid of all the oily crud and shit, and renew what needs it etc, so I'll get round to it.
I'm sure the water hoses on the carb are all clogged up cos the choke and general carb operation is all to hell, so that's the next job.
supernova2,
Jul 11, 10:37am
How close it that clutch cable? Previous owner of my Navara fitted extractors and promptly cooked the speedo cable as it ended up about 2mm away from the downpipe.
2sheddies,
Jul 12, 12:39am
Plenty of room there but good point to think about when doing this stuff.
esky-tastic,
Nov 29, 2:12am
DOh! I guess they just didn’t notice it?
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