well done . its a bit of a mind f. k ,when the so called easy ignition systems don't play the game. especially in this day and age of electronics.
bumfacingdown,
Oct 6, 10:17pm
Great to have a poster giving the follow up, to many just disappear. Well done that man
kazbanz,
Oct 6, 11:21pm
lets see if there's a sequel to this story. As in if the fiddling just disturbed the real culprit so things work for now. I reckon OP has nailed it with oil coated everything but lets see.
gpg58,
Oct 6, 11:30pm
Have to admit to being a pessimist re just flucking it, which is why I tried starting before touching anything this morning, so do think it will have been the issue, as all else has been done before like rotor and dizzy cap off etcetera.
tygertung,
Oct 7, 12:28am
Just remember, 9 out of 10 fuel problems are electrical.
realtrader1,
Oct 7, 12:49am
So it seems nothing has been found it. If the problem returns, I think it will be the base plate wire which has behaved for you but that may have just been the repositioning of a faulty wire. Failing that perhaps it was the multi connector for the distributor.
gpg58,
Oct 7, 2:04am
Fairly sure connectors are all ok, as still would not go with coil hot wired to battery. Could not find a new wire at 3 places I just tried, so have picked up a bit of the right size braid at the local auto electricians, and two small lugs that I will solder on, (at huge cost of fifty cents total :-), and will make up my own new lead, going with the just in case, rule it out theory as well.
realtrader1,
Oct 7, 2:33am
Re the connectors. they are obviously ok now but it may have been removal and refitting of the said connector/s that has improved the electrical connectivity.
framtech,
Oct 7, 10:14am
Could be a perfect storm, those engines at this age - the seals on the front of the motor will be failing, wetting the timing belt and you may find its worn off the belt lobes and its jumped one tooth, the carbs on those starlets are shit and I found fitting a downdraught weber took away all the shit running and gave it a heap more power once jetted with the right chokes fitted, I would also get hold of a timing light and reset the timing, some of the after market points are shit too, try a different brand of points and set the dwell correctly. All depends on the miles its done, they are usually good up to 400,000 k with new alloy rad and replacement of the metal water fittings, fitting a catch can also keeps the top end clean.
framtech,
Oct 7, 10:18am
are you talking about the shut off solenoid that prevents (after running) when key switched off.
gpg58,
Oct 7, 10:43am
Yes, so i learnt earlier today when searching carb info, not an idle up control at all. Seems to be working fine, as stops immediately when unplugged. Will keep that in mind if fault does come back, but car would still not run after cleaning carb and it out, but did not try powering it independently while installed on carb and trying to start car, as i tried earth wire idea which worked, first. So will be first thing i do, if faults appears again, now that cambelt and dizzy drive are likely ruled out, as she's back to running fine.
gpg58,
Oct 7, 11:04am
Info i found says 10 degs for ignition with vac advance off, seems a lot, but will try it. will reset points gap to .8mm spec to, as likely have wider than that at the moment. never done dwell settings, but that would be a factor of points gap wouldn't it? Only 111k on the clock(sold new locally). Points look identical to ones removed, think they are bosch ones.
franc123,
Oct 7, 12:08pm
The points gap directly affects the dwell angle, yes. Setting by dwell is preferable if you've got a meter to connect to the coil. As for timing, if both the mech and vac advance are working good I would set it to the recommended spec and see how it goes, then give it some more advance and see how it behaves on a road test, if it pinks you can always knock it back again.
intrade,
Oct 7, 10:12pm
i recall hiace 86 van with points bucking and shooting the contact braker was having to large a gap. i have a wurth electronic timing light with dwell angle so set it to 100% correct and it drives now 3 years trouble free.
intrade,
Oct 7, 10:18pm
if you cant get a electronic timing light tester to set contacts the best is to scrap points and go electronic ignition . The reason why electronic ignition is better is because at high rpm problems start with contact spark duration decreases due to the mechanicals as where a electronics can act in micro or nano secounds . as where contacts get worse the faster the rotor goes the worse the time to charge the coils winf$ding time gets. similar reason why if you want massive power on diesel you have to have electronics or you get more and more black smoke as the mechanicals cant change to condition fast enough its why old diesel put out a secound or 2 black smoke as normal. thats the mechanical time lag to adjust fueling.
gazzat22,
Oct 7, 10:22pm
Sometimes its the simple basic things like cant see the woods for the trees!
tygertung,
Oct 7, 11:57pm
You can come and use my dwell tacho and timing light if you want, but I'm in Cashmere so bit of a drive from Kaiapoi.
gpg58,
Nov 10, 10:05am
Yes agree it would be easy enough to do.
But would totally defeat the only reason i bought it, which was to have one car that has absolutely no electronics at all(except factory dash clock). Extremely basic, good old hand crank windows, manual g/box etc etc .
I already have enough potential electronic nightmares in years to come, and am rather hoping the starlet will still be going in another 30 years, unlike the likely story with the others.(2020 RSV Astra blackout edition, with every bell and whistle, 2020 Spark Lt, and 2013 navara dc 4wd). I do now also have the super basic 1989 hino rainbow 3.8 turbo bus, to cover the no electronics diesel side of things. ------------- Still starting and running fine this morning, and again just now, yet to do timing, or give her a good run though.
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