Td27 coolant system bleeding

b00f01, Oct 21, 11:58pm
Hi there any tips on bleeding the cooling system of a td27 (96 mistral). Being a real pain. No i dont believe the head gasket or anything has failed. Truck was perfect until i decided to put the new radiator in that i had. Thanks

intrade, Oct 22, 12:03am
highest point open and pump all lower coolant hoses with hand . and make sure heater is on hot. once you have heat in internal cabin then your close to have all air out. Do not run for to long if you think you have still air trapped as hotspots can damage . I recall a guy with a diesel terrano head replaced 4 times still lost water. conclusion was hairline crack in block .

b00f01, Oct 22, 12:12am
Have been told that the heater core is a pain for holding air also

andy61, Oct 22, 12:17am
I had a Mistral, took the radiator out to have checked at a Radiator shop, didnt have any issues after refitting the radiator, do they have a nipple bleeder?, I may have opened that when refilling the coolant. Been a few years since I had that Mistral.

b00f01, Oct 22, 12:38am
No bleeder that i know of or can see

andy61, Oct 22, 12:53am
Strange, I had no issues with the Mistral, or the 1996 Terrano that replaced the Mistral, after refilling them. (Mistral was radiator out and the Terrano was a new thermostat).

b00f01, Oct 22, 12:57am
Ive pulled thermos without issue but this keeps preasurising once sealed. Was perfect with old rad

kazbanz, Oct 22, 1:05am
Have a look at the heater hoses under the bonnet. One of them should have a square "box" on it with a posi screw head on the side/top/front of it.

jack up front of car helps to purge air pockets
open the bleeder screw
- fill system until coolant starts coming out the bleeder hole
close bleeder screw fill until coolant is at the bottom of the filler neck do not put cap on the radiator.start motor; as coolant starts to warm up, you may see a few air bubbles squeeze all the rad hoses to free up possible air pockets,put cap on radiator

intrade, Oct 22, 2:01am
its supposed to run a pressure . its not a ford model T once all hose radiator and heater works hot then its done. The pressure should be below the caps rating. You never open a hot radiator cap of a correct working system .
The reason it was not pressurised before was because you obviously did not have a sealed system broken open radiator.
cracked heads blowen gasket can be generated and the problem masked . you also often get leaking waterpumps once the pressure is in a neglected cooling system. I tell people to f. k off when they come with rusty cooling water and want me to fix it. because they want to pay to fit a new radiator and then all other problems are suposed to be since i worked on it. Nope aint going to happen .

b00f01, Oct 22, 2:08am
Hoses were soft to squeeze before radiator swap after a 300km drive when i forst got it. maybe with the new rad and cap its working how its supose to now?

andy61, Oct 22, 4:57am
Is it blowing coolant out after a run ? ie bubbling and gurgling and blowing etc?

b00f01, Oct 22, 8:02am
Nope just going to run it as it is and keep an eye on temps and water level

shakespeare6, Nov 4, 4:10am
After 300 km the hose should be hard - at the cap pressure. You can’t have had a correctly working pressured system before - now you have