I agree with jmma ~ #29. Head gasket went on mine - got surface grind etc. Used the original head bolts only for the gasket to blow 35k later. Fitted new gasket using original head bolts (again). A mechanic recommended to re torque the head after 2 -3 hundred k and back off the bolts then re torque them. I marked the head of each bolt and noticed that i got another 1/3 of a turn out of them. (I always use grease under head bolts) I'm sure it was from the gasket compressing and not the bolts stretching. One of the lifters wore it's butt out ~ $100 for a toyota one. Found out that chev v8 are the same and only cost $10.
2sheddies,
Jan 26, 11:18am
Cheers for that. I hadn't moved anything since taking it apart, so can't imagine it would have gone to buggery much, but good to know it's a non issue regardless.
I'm pondering whether, once everything's fully back together, to turn it over by hand a couple of times to see that everything feels normal before attempting a start. Any merit to that idea, or should I just go straight for the start up, maybe sans coil lead at first, so I can hear anything funny before it fires?
Funny as, I've worked on cars all my life, but this is my first time doing a head gasket, as unbelievable as it seems lol. The actual mechanic of the family used to take care of all this major stuff, but these days it's up to me. I'm finding it very satisfying however. Seeing everything coming back together all clean and shiny new is very rewarding. Hope it's a while before I'll have to do this again.
Once again, greatly appreciate all the reassuring advice.
2sheddies,
Jan 26, 11:20am
I've found that issue to be a bone of contention also. I know they should be retorqued, but some say after 1000km, the Gregory's manual says after one heat cycle, another person says do it after a month, or after 200km.
Then one says don't back off the bolts, another says yes back them off lol. what to do? !
2sheddies,
Jan 26, 11:21am
Sorry all. back posting under my own account, just incase you're thinking it's two different people.
marte,
Jan 26, 12:52pm
From memory, I read a couple of heat cycles & again a month later. Maybe it was from my Cortina manual.
I'd use the head studs again, but take into account new head studs, gasket & reface the head if it goes bad later on.
msigg,
Jan 26, 6:17pm
Well to answer your question. 25 years ago I took the head of my one, had slight pitting on block in one spot, cleaned up with light file, put something in the pitted part, light run over with the file again, put the head back on with all old parts, gasket and bolts,never had a problem.it was only worth 1k , so didn't waste my money. They are very forgiving engine and very simple.Very easy job, couple of hours done. . Note if this is your pride and joy then buy new bolts. Each to their own.
martin11,
Jan 26, 6:43pm
He based the comment on your other posts and it seems a lot of people comment on the rubbish you post . Have to agree with them .
tygertung,
Jan 26, 7:05pm
They should be fine, but if concerned you can polish out the pits with some wet and dry, start with a coarser grade, then move up to a finer grade.
That's what we used to do when working on the Pratt and Whitney JT8D tierod bolts, they hold the compressors together.
It was in the manual. It didn't cause any problems and they may well be more critical than a 3Y head bolt.
Here is a work package from the Christchurch Engine Centre, which I bizarrely found online!
You will see on page 8 and 14 that the tie rods were found to be repairable.
Man, it is amazing to find this posted online on google! A real blast from the past!
I would certainly turn the engine over by hand and ensure that nothing is binding or hitting first. Standard practice I would have thought!
jmma,
Jan 26, 7:14pm
You will need to reset the tappets, no need to retorque as it will be a one time crush head gasket.
intrade,
Jan 26, 10:28pm
This is the exact car ours was a caravan but thats the head bolt i broke off when i did torque it to correct spec only 1 broke off and i could wind it out clean again. i usually dont go and make the same mistake twice. especially if you can buy new head bolts . it be a different story if there was none https://topgear.fandom.com/wiki/Opel_Kadett
cattleshed,
Jan 26, 10:49pm
Fine but one issue is only one issue. And unusual at that. For it to break I would think there was a problem that maybe ought to have been noticed. Perhaps those particular head bolts are weak anyway. Everyone has come across issues because things do happen however that is no reason to go about replacing head bolts every time. To be consistent you would have to say I had better replace every single nut and bolt that I ever take off.
intrade,
Jan 26, 11:42pm
Perhaps those particular head bolts are weak anyway that is what is called material fatigue. We used to check Rollers for chocolate machines for cracks in my apprentice and the rejects was purchased by the poms is why they have terrible chocolate. And the Arabs did dump the rejects in to the see and said they wont pay 1 cent untill we deliver the quality they did order for chocolate roller machines = why i buy chocolate from united Arab emirates because they use the good swiss machnines we had to replace . Also pasta machines if you wonder why united arab emirates have good pasta. Anyhow unless you can check for invisible micro cracks on bolts its a gamble to reuse especially if they are as old as they are of a y engine with hot and cold so many times already.
tygertung,
Jan 27, 1:49am
You don't have to replace bolts every time, they don't even do that on aircraft! There are certain bolts which get replaced, but typically only in the hot section.
The bolts holding the fan on a V2500 only get replaced if they are damaged or over the maximum length measurement, and 80% of the thrust comes from the fan, and they can produce 33 000 lbs of thrust.
marte,
Jan 27, 3:16am
Nearly every roundabout I walk around has a broken off bolt or wheel nut with 1/2 stud in it, laying around it somewhere. Along with a few gibboard screws, wheel weights, staples & the odd D shackle.
nice_lady,
Jan 27, 7:42am
Hubby reckons he's done long lasting home rebuilds on several engines over the years including V8's he's thrashed afterwards for many many miles and he's never gone and bought new headbolts, and never had trouble either.
2sheddies,
Jan 27, 9:02am
Hmmmm dunno. Not too happy with the final result and I don't think it's got anything to do with head bolts. Still seems to be overheating. well put it this way, somebody's fitted it with a cheap chinese temp gauge, and I don't know whether it's trustworthy.
Shows up to 100 deg on that gauge and keeps rising. When I put a temp probe directly in the top of the radiator (cap off obviously, so not pressurised) it sits around a constant 85 to 90 deg, while the China gauge still reads 100. Thermostat is brand new and opens around 85 deg on the probe.
Motor sounds lovely, but I don't want to overheat it and bugger up all my hard work! Radiator is relatively new, could the water pump be faulty? Or should I start by installing a decent gauge and getting a new cap?
muppet_slayer,
Jan 27, 9:18am
85 - 90 deg celsius with the cap off is good, that's about 'operating temperature'. That equates to about 80 - 85 deg celsius with the cap on, and from what you say it sounds like the chinese gauge is reading wrong. First thing I would do is sort out the temp gauge by removing and fitting a new reputable brand temp gauge.
2sheddies,
Jan 27, 9:31am
Good plan, pleased to know the temp reading is normal. I thought it seemed about average but wasn't 100% sure. I meant to pick up a new cap today when I got all the other bits and pieces but walked out without it. Thought I'd just renew everything, although I haven't done the water pump. There's no leaks though, but there is a bit of steam coming from the exhaust. However, the whole system was chock full of water from the previous blown gasket, so that's what I'm attributing the steam to. Certainly runs a million percent better than it did before.
2sheddies,
Jan 27, 9:40am
Just looked on here and the gauge fitted to the van can be purchased for $14.95 lol. I'm certain you could trust such quality! And it's electrical to boot. I prefer mechanical gauges, so I'll see if I can find one.
muppet_slayer,
Jan 27, 9:47am
So you've had it running with the cap off so you should have witnessed the thermostat open and shut several times. When it opened did the water rush by the cap opening? If it was rushing past the opening then I would take from that that the water pump is operating ok.
2sheddies,
Jan 27, 9:54am
I wouldn't say it's rushing past, can't really see much movement at all if I'm honest. It swirls around a bit every now and then. This is making me suspect the water pump? Although another possibility is that perhaps I haven't got all the air out of the system yet, which could be affecting things.
But then if the water pump had failed, the temp wouldn't sit at 85 to 90 at the probe all the time would it?
Also there's no coolant in it as yet. The engine reco bloke said to just put plain water in at first, then drain it and fill with coolant when I retorque the head.
marte,
Jan 27, 10:08am
I don't trust dashboard temp gauges anymore. I had problems with my car & couldn't figure it out untill I connected a OBDIi to it & found the gauge read 90°C when it was 80°C, & still read 90°C when it was up to 100°C.
Don't know if it's OBD compatible but a $15 unit is cheap & download a free app & it will tell you.
muppet_slayer,
Jan 27, 10:17am
The old head gasket, was it blown? If it was then that would be the cause of your overheating. I wouldn't worry too much about the water pump at this stage. I would get that temperature gauge replaced. Then fill with water, get it hot with the cap on, let it cool down and check the water level and top up if necessary. Then take it for a roadtest. If the pump is not working properly it'll show on the temp gauge pretty much straight away.
muppet_slayer,
Jan 27, 11:01am
No worries mate. I think I speak for most on here when I say it is a pleasure trying to help others :)
muppet_slayer,
Jan 27, 12:01pm
Sounds like you've done ok. I don't think it would have started and ran for so long, and maintained a good temperature, if something was a miss, and I don't think you would have attempted it if you were not confident. 'So careful and methodical', you've probably done better than some mechanics who rush the job. GL tomorrow (or today should I say lol). Sheesh I better get some sleep.
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