it should not happen again but check it again after a further 80km if they are loose again then you got a problem.
tootsie9,
Feb 9, 2:43pm
My bloody ears might have been ripped off if me wheel fell off. LOL
tootsie9,
Feb 9, 2:48pm
Yep will do this. I will go out and do the dreaded of taking the big blimin wheels off. LOL
tootsie9,
Feb 9, 2:51pm
Thanks everyone for your input and I will post back my findings.
ginga4lyfe,
Feb 9, 2:51pm
whats a normal fella then! lol im only slightly bigger than a "wee fella" by that concept!
skin1235,
Feb 9, 2:53pm
did you note this above. re before removing
richardmayes,
Feb 9, 3:08pm
What wheel nuts are you using with your new wheels!
On some cars the OEM wheels and wheel nuts have a spherical bearing surface, different than the majority (!) of wheels and nuts that have a standard (!) 60 degree taper. Torque up a conical shaped tapered nut against a spherical shaped socket in the wheel, and sure it may torque up alright but the contact faces that are tightened up against each other are not what they would normally be. It's not exactly a square peg in a round hole, but it's not very good either and they have been known to work loose.
I haven't experienced this myself, but apparently it is a problem when Honda lads buy tricky aftermarket alloy wheel nuts (with a conical taper) and use them with their stock Honda mag wheels, which often have a spherical taper.
johnf_456,
Feb 9, 3:20pm
What branch, so I can advise everyone I know not to go there.
tootsie9,
Feb 9, 4:13pm
Standard nuts which are tappered and the holes in wheels are tappered too
tootsie9,
Feb 9, 4:15pm
I used the standard which are tappered at one end and are blind nuts. Wheels were tappered too.
johnf_456,
Feb 9, 4:16pm
Will be doing my part, this is not acceptable.
tootsie9,
Feb 9, 4:17pm
Ok everyone so I have taken all 4 wheels of and have found no damage at all. All wheelnuts threaded right to the hub. Also no damage to rear of wheels. Wheel nuts are tappered and so are the wheel holes. I have put them all back on and tightened up so will see how i get on. Will re-tighten then after 60 odd k.
tootsie9,
Feb 9, 4:18pm
Yeah I rekon. Time will tell if they loosen again but my fingers are crossed they don't
tootsie9,
Feb 9, 6:06pm
Now could the center bore play a factor in this. My terrano is 100mm and the wheels I put on are 108mm
tootsie9,
Feb 9, 6:11pm
I purchased the wheels and got them to put them on for me.
pdc1,
Feb 9, 7:19pm
there is something wrong. You need to find out why before driving it anymore. You need to check - 1 -nuts (or bolts!)type and how they are meant to seat, and that they are seated. 2 -the centres of wheels. Many wheels it is important that they fit correctly into the spigot of the hub. 3 - whether the wheel is mounting firmly with flange. Also consider things like what the hub caps are going to do. Some tin hub caps are able to sit between the wheel and the flange meaning the wheel isn't up solid to the flange, and then a few miles down the track, the cap edges squash, meaning wheel comes loose. You probably will need to seek independant advice. Wheel shop should have been onto it, however it sounds like they are incompetent.
tootsie9,
Feb 9, 7:34pm
Thanks for that. The wheelnuts seem to be seating ok. You mentioned the center hub cap and I did notice rub marks on the actual axle hub so I have taken them off. Wheel shop should have said something I say.
pdc1,
Feb 9, 7:48pm
It's unbelieveable that the wheel shop doesn't realise the problem and let you take the car away, expecially when they knew that they had torqued them up and then they had come loose. Even if they didn't know what was causing it, they should have kept the car until they sought extra advice. This could have caused a nasty accident. Hope you have found the problem. The edges of the caps can be ground/filed shorter to fix the problem. Even though you have checked the wheel nuts, it wouldn't hurt to check with another expert that they are indeed the right type for the wheel. I guess you could try it with the hub caps off and drive it. Check nuts after 10 km - 50 km - 100 km - 250 km - 1000 km. Any looseness of nuts noted means that your problem isn't sorted. I'm not entirely happy about the different centre sizes. This probably needs more investigation. It is really important on some wheel types
tootsie9,
Feb 9, 7:59pm
There is no shimmy or wobbling now after doing what I have done and I do tighten in that manner (opposites)
peril787b1,
Feb 9, 8:02pm
The wheels should be using concentric spacer rings to take up the difference in measurements, HOWEVER all tyre shops should advise customers to return to the shop after a reasonable drive (15-20kms) to have the nuts retorqued (or do this themselves, alhough how many people would scream "the tyre shop used my car"). It is common knowledge the wheels will settle and may result in loose nuts. I'm surprised that so many of the "experts" are saying "this isn't normal", it most certainly is.
tootsie9,
Feb 9, 8:03pm
Thanks for that. Yeah I intend on keeping a close eye on that too. I still think that the tyre shop should have told me if the wheels were the wrong type. And yes I agree they shouldn't have let me drive off again but they probably thinking they got their money who cares.
tootsie9,
Feb 9, 8:05pm
Who sells these spacer things and any idea of price!
pdc1,
Feb 9, 8:14pm
Yes definitely it is best practice to check them after a short drive. I'm not a expert, and don't what to be arguing about what is normal settling. I'm just saying that something needs sorting, more than just re tighten and hope that it will be right. For all 4 wheels to come loose to the point of falling off within 100 km is not normal settling.
tootsie9,
Feb 9, 8:18pm
I agree and this is why I am thinking they were not tight in the 1st place. I have taken the hubcaps off because as stated earlier this could be preventing wheel from being hard to the flange and I could see where they were rubbing (shiny marks)
twink19,
Feb 10, 6:55am
is there enough thread through the nut, should have 6 and half turns minimum
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