Only one person seems to have mentioned the fuel pump.We had a number of Morris 1000's from that era and on at least two of them we carried a hammer so that when the engine seized we would give the floor at the front on the passengers side a whack and away she'd go.The electric fuel pump was on the other side of that bit of floor and would regularly stop working.We knew it would start again after a whack and our method was better than getting out of the car, opening the bonnet and whacking the pump!That was a well known "flaw" (sorry!) back then and was cheaper than buying a new pump etc.The other "cure" when it happened was to wait for a while and then start up again and carry on until it stopped again - repeating the wait and go.
gedo1,
Feb 27, 7:01am
.not saying that is your problem.but if you do try it don't hit it too hard!
saki,
Feb 27, 7:57am
your best bet would be swift automotive, unfortnatly they are in chch. look for an old school rover or datsun service person there must be someone in your area.
budgel,
Feb 27, 8:01am
An old Brit car enthusiast once said to me: "90 percent of fuel problems are electrical!"Meaning coil, points, condenser etc.
socram,
Feb 27, 9:32am
#45The BGT is indeed better for tall people.I think it may have something to do with screen height.
We all await with baited breath the result of this one.My money is still on condensor if it hasn't yet been replaced.
My real money is on changing the mechanic ASAP!
rodg.sue,
Feb 27, 9:46am
MMM off to see the mechanic in the morning trust me it wont be pleasant as have spoken to someonebody else on friday night and they said that garage is renowned for doing this and then handing out a humungous account! not happy but really want to get my car going, the points have been replaced, the fuel pump and filter have been replaced.Condensor might have to be next, but will be getting in touch with mg club here before I get anybody else under her bonnet.My hubby is 6 foot+ as well which is hilarious watching him try to fold himself into her especially when the roofs on lmao! but me im 5 foot nothing so shes a pearler lol!
ema1,
Feb 27, 11:37am
Addition check the fuel pump if it's indeed the original SU type which I'll wager it won't be most have gone the way of the "Ark" by now to be replaced by aftermarket electronic versions as that's pretty much all that is available now. Years ago they were an ongoing source of faults ( the original points breaker type I'm talking about here!) The hammer as an extra part of the tool kit was always carried by me the tap errant fuel pumps if I got caught out, luckily I never did. I carried a spare serviced pump with me though when I had various BMC cars over the years. Wolseley 16/60 I had back 36years ago was the only one requiring a fuel pump swap .in the middle of the night in the freezing cold of the McKenzie Country in Canterbury.Always carried a spare after that episode!
ema1,
Feb 27, 11:39am
It was pretty much common place on those older Lucas distributors to replace the condenser as a matter of course as they at the time were a relatively cheap item back in my day in the trade.also the "pig tail" wire from the contact points needed to be correctly fitted as well, surprising just how often I've not done so .indeed lots of point sets are NOT correctly fitted by those in the know besides the DIY folks!
ema1,
Feb 27, 11:57am
Hammer to tap the errant fuel pumps ( to.not the .wrong word choice there, brain fade maybe!)
clark20,
Feb 27, 12:02pm
Find out if it is indeed a SU pump, not one of the nasty ones, as they do not need much pressure. I used a Honda one which they used for their carburettor cars in the late 80s/90s, and it never stops.
Edit: Is it a Facet one that just keeps ticking!
ema1,
Feb 27, 1:16pm
I think earlier like 1980's or so Subaru's may have had a similar style of fuel pump on their carby engines, I know the Honda ones you are talking about I had one in the last BMC car thatowned, a Riley 4/72 that had a MGB 1800 5 bearing 18GB. transplant along with a MGB 3.9 : 1 ratio diff head fitted working on the original Riley 4/72 rear axles. It had the original 1622cc g/box fitted as well as the 1622cc rear engine plate to allow direct bolt up (apart from shortening the g/box input shaft by 74mm and revising the spigot bearing) to fit onto the 1800 engine after the 1622cc rear plate had the 1800 type rear crank seal aperture machined into it to suit as well, as the 1622 used a scroll type oil seal originally. It was an MGB effectively with a sedan body and it went extremely good too, quite nicely powered, had it for 12 years that car and often think I shouldn't have sold it. Hind sight is an amazing thing but often that's where it stays I'm afraid Ummm! I'm tossing up whether to get another Riley 4/72 as a project on similar lines! I see one on here actually.mighty tempted.
clark20,
Feb 27, 1:41pm
Do a Sunbeam like this, go to earlier pages to see the front
At one stage we carried a 1 gallon tin, with a bit of copper pipe soldered in the bottom, and a length of pipe, so if the jolly (insert expletive there) fuel pump played up at night we could just hook up the pipe and drive along holding the tin full of petrol up to get to somewhere.Oh Happy days
rodg.sue,
Feb 28, 7:45am
Todays update! Just spoke to mechanic and he has said that its the Rotar that is faulty and not arcing properly goes out the bottom not the top! (I may have that wrong) he sad thats why it cuts out please does this make sense to you! He said will be bout $12.00 for part so have said to go ahead and pop it in and to do no more incase this is actually it, Help mechanics and tinkerers please!
jrlaw,
Feb 28, 7:54am
Could be true, rotor should have a burn hole through the middle of it. Seems a bit odd though that it stops only after a number of mileage.Hope they get to the bottom of your problem for sure.
socram,
Feb 28, 8:14am
Fingers crossed for you.Jeez, what a saga.
smac,
Feb 28, 9:16am
Seems unlikely, but is possible. If it works, then get him to remove his carb, and coil and fuel pump or whatever else he sold you and refund them.
ema1,
Feb 28, 9:36am
My thoughts too, hope it gets sorted, between all of us I reckon we've covered all the bases.
jrlaw,
Feb 28, 10:31am
If you were in P.N. I would have had a look at for you.
1fordluva,
Feb 28, 10:56am
If its the rotor burnt,condensor or coil. Sounds like this garage is playing you for money.
rovercitroen,
Feb 28, 11:10am
Could it be that the valve (tappet) clearances are closing up as the engine gets fully warmed up! This could cause rough running. Just a thought as I've seen that happen before.
saki,
Feb 28, 2:44pm
Would the ignition system make enough current to do that.
rodg.sue,
Feb 28, 5:13pm
OMG You wont believe what it! Called into the garage on the way home to sort out the latest and the mechanic had yet again gone home, have ajob description and an account, wasnt till i got to the bottom line of the job sheet that i now want to really loose the plot, will type full job description: checked leads cleaned plugs checked power to coil removed float from carby found needle vavle to be worn put new kit into carburator adjusted idle and mixture test drove vehicle and died found no spark tested rotar and found it to be faulty fitted new rotortest drove SEEMS TO HAVE N ELECTRICAL FAULT! I feel like its a bad dream, help and input please! should i pay this account! car still dosent go and whose to say it needed theses parts!
kenw1,
Feb 28, 5:27pm
I reckon the mechanic is reading this thread for ideas on what to charge for.Any Comments!
HTF do you test a rotor arm, you look at it and that is it.
If it has taken someone this long and that many $$$ to find a screwed up rotor arm, god help us all.
1fordluva,
Feb 28, 6:22pm
I would think if the rotor was burnt it would be the centre of the dizzy cap is is cracked and playing up as that sprays sparks around in side the cap,insted of it conducting straight into the rotor. Go to a mechanic that knows what he is doing,
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