I have the opportunity to buy a pair of Stromberg 1/2" carbs, my question is though, do i need a different manifold to suit the strombergs, or do they bolt straight up the the manifoldi currently have on my triumph 2500tc! also is the 1/2" the right size for the 2500tc! as it just stated that its for 2000/2500! and the final question, the strombergs should be cheaper to rebuild int he long run vs the Tamper proof POS Su's i currently have!
EDIT Oh nuts i ment 1-1/2"( one and a half inch )
dave653,
Jun 20, 2:17pm
I would have thought the strombergs were factory! Not sure on bolt pattern but I have 3 - 1 3/4SU's on my red six, never had fuelling issues, and the SU's are easier and cheaper to repair. no rubber diaphragm.
rob_man,
Jun 20, 2:18pm
Half an inch may be a bit small.
ginga4lyfe,
Jun 20, 2:19pm
they came with Su's too, and then the last of them came with Tamper proof Su's, and made it VERY annoying to source parts for, and very expensive too
ginga4lyfe,
Jun 20, 2:20pm
there , i fixed my post up a little haha
dave653,
Jun 20, 2:23pm
Never heard of the tamper proof ones.
ginga4lyfe,
Jun 20, 2:36pm
not many parts people do either, because no one wants them in there cars
pfemstn,
Jun 20, 3:01pm
su,s are twice the carb ,strombergs wear out quickly and have diapragm.s which dont last!plusyou need 1. 75 carbs! for your triumph
ginga4lyfe,
Jun 20, 3:19pm
ok cheers that pretty much sums it up for me quite nicely then, So ill more than likley go for the other SU's that i can possible get hold of, in the mean while, can anyone recommend a decent carb tuner around auckland! and what their general charge rates are!, im ok at tuning and ballencing now, but i want a "better" and more reliable tune when i get the other Su's installed
nzfatie,
Jun 20, 5:09pm
I don't know why everyone hates Strombergs so much, work fine on my Avenger and the spindles don't flog out as quickly as they do on SU's. Having the mixture adjustment down the middle, needing a special tool is a good idea, stops DIY people mucking around with the mixture and often wrecking their motor by setting it too lean! It's interesting that Jag had to take the SU's off the E-type and replace them with Strombergs, so they'd meet US emission standards. You may have too stick with 1 1/2" SU's anyway as their twin carb manifolds are usually a /\style with opposite mount front and rear carbs, while my twin 1 1/2" Stromberg carb Avenger is a // style with both carbs having the same mount.
xacoon,
Jun 20, 5:14pm
can sell you a couple of 40mm dellortos, I would love to set them up on one of my vehicles, if I ever get the time.
supernova2,
Jun 20, 5:19pm
Can u post a pic of those su that u have, just what is tamperproof on them!They only have a idlescrew, fast idel screw, and jet adjustment dont they!or are they the ones with the electrikc fast idle etc!
ginga4lyfe,
Jun 20, 5:21pm
well that depends on the price, and if they will bolt straight on!
djrandomguy,
Jun 20, 6:34pm
having owned many Avengers over the years, I can vouch for the Strombergs. I found them to be simple to service and very reliable.
Get the book to help, SUs work well when they are not worn out. My MG ones were nackered, and I bought 1.5" ones on a manifold for $250, so much better to work with.
ginga4lyfe,
Jun 20, 9:11pm
Mine are well worn out, the spindles and spindle bushes especially, and im not keen to buyspindels and throttle plates at about 150 bucks when i can buy a set of carbs in good condition for less than 100 bucks ( that way i have spares too )
One of the advantages of an SU is that the jet can be adjusted to compensate (within reason) for the spindle air leak.I've owned approx 20 BBMC/Leyland cars with SUs and Ive never had a spindle replaced and I've always managed to get them to run reasonably.Sure they might not have been factory perfect but I've never found one yet that was so bad as to need replacement.We are talking about a 30+ year old car.I doubt that it would run any better if it had factory new carbs on it given the 30 years of assorted wear on everything else.
supernova2,
Jun 20, 11:25pm
Just as an example had an austin A40 Farina with an SU that had a piston stuck in the dashpot.Had to take the d/pot off and drive the piston out with a puch and hammer.Cleaned up the running surfaces with a bit of wet and dry, stuck it back together, didnt adjust anything,and never touched the carb again in all the time I had it.Ran like a swiss watch.
supernova2,
Jun 20, 11:28pm
Back to the OPs question though.Needs 1.75s strombergs and if they are off something other than Trumpy probable will have wrong jets, needles springs etc.Better to stick with devil you know in this case.
snoopy221,
Jun 20, 11:44pm
This could be a LONG post. However we will use the *back to basics*. Basiacly early SU's and strombergs are ONLY able to be set up PROPERLY by people who understand them. I.E. a floating jet sprung loaded inside and adjustment tube coupled with a sprung controled needle requires the CENTRALISATION of BOTH components. Dashpot tops can be rotated for centralisation.again this is experiencedwork. As to the needle graduation/calibration tables-well spend an hour or so with a carb needle and a micrometer and a drill press and some wet and dry. To do this one needs to refer to and understand the tables-and what air hole and spring rate changes one is calibrating with as well. Then we move on to the *infamous* BAS series-or biased needles.notorious for wearing on one side. the end and final and NICE result is the HS series-any man and his dog can tune them As to spindles and butterflies-well again to re centralise an offset throttle butterfly to compensate for spindle wear-even if one is rebushing with teflon bushes one STILL has to recentralise-again-tis the lost arts-nowadays.
smac,
Jun 21, 6:25am
Well the last word is the HIF's really. Way better, and certainly my recommendation.
ginga4lyfe,
Jun 21, 9:25am
Id prefer HIF's myself i would agree that they are MUCh better than the HS6's i have
supernova2,
Jun 24, 7:51pm
Hey just had a thought about your trumpy.Been years since ive worked on one but do remember that the had a nasty habit of very bad wear on the rocker shaft, which can cock up the valve lift and make them run a bit funny.Did you check yours!
ginga4lyfe,
Jun 24, 9:36pm
I didnt pull the shaft out no, as the engine was still in the engine bay, and i didnt wunna disturb the timing, though when i got it running i did check the timing properly and there seamed to be no problems other than the tentioner being a little slack( fixed that though )
Since the public registrations are closed, you must have an invite from a current member to be able to register and post in this thread.
Have an account? Login here.