put in new flywheel on the 350 as the ring gear was shagged on the old one,bolted in reduction starter, worked fine, bolted clutch back in, put gearbox back in, driveshaft etc, fire engine.sweet, shut engine down, go to fire engine back up, back to square 1, starter not engaging again, had a guts full, what the hell is going on!
r15,
Mar 27, 10:26am
sell it, buy a corolla / civic / polo / fiat dlesel people mover thingee that looks fucken terrible with the name i cant currently remember
mk3zephyr,
Mar 27, 10:30am
multipla!, nah mate i would still rather have the Corvette that doesnt go sitting in the shed rather than one of those piles of ****
sr2,
Mar 27, 10:41am
You have my sympathies mate, why is it always the simple fixes that go tit??
franc123,
Mar 27, 10:44am
whats going on in the feed circuit to the solenoid, maybe a voltage drop somewhere/crook ign switch!
mrfxit,
Mar 27, 1:11pm
Agreed. Had that very problem 2 weeks ago. It was the starter solenoid cable & had fractured within the terminals.
Looking back on it . That was a fairly easy to locate fault for me seeing as I had recently totally rebuilt ALL my battery cables & fitted a near new battery
(all clips crimped AND soldered)
lookoutas,
Mar 27, 1:16pm
Starter not engaging! Means it's going guys. Have you got the correct starter bolts!
mk3zephyr,
Mar 27, 2:30pm
yes the starter is turning no worries and yes there is a crack in the block where the red outline is actually there is a bit missing, i just wound a longer high tensile machine bolt in it as the thread goes all the way through, whats the fix!, weld a stud in there perhaps!
attitudedesignz,
Mar 27, 2:45pm
The only solutions i found was either find someone who can coldweld cast iron OR throw the block away.
Once those ears on the block start to crack you will NEVER get the starter to work 100% perfect 100% of the time.
soul.fire6,
Mar 27, 4:04pm
.and waving them 'round like you just dont care!
tractor9,
Mar 27, 8:52pm
You could stick a Multipla engine and trans in it,at least it would still look like a Corvette.
ginga4lyfe,
Mar 27, 10:15pm
transplant a Buick V8 into it, more reliable
lookoutas,
Mar 28, 6:53am
There could be part of ya problem. The correct starter bolts have a thicker shank than a standard bolt. So there is slop and the starter can easily tweak off angle. Being broken is the next/worst problem. Don't some starters have a bracket that bolts to the front and then to the sump bolts! Or somewhere there. Fitting or making such a bracket could soften the broken problem.
attitudedesignz,
Mar 28, 7:02am
WTF! You gotta be taking the piss ginga.a- int ya!
lookoutas,
Mar 28, 7:23am
Thank christ no Ford fan has been silly enough to mention fitting a FORD.
Wait for the Holden's!
If you want a bolt with longer reach mk3, you might have to get one made.
whqqsh,
Mar 28, 7:29am
you must have my old T bucket motor (lol), I tried everything, several starter motors (with correct shanked bolts), new ring gear with correct matching pinion gear, feeler gauge check of clearance, rear support bracket, tried reduction starter that was gauranteed to work & then returned AND after all that she'd still fire up sweet as cold or when hot stopped & restarted straight away or left for 1/2 an hour BUT try stopping, running into the shop for 5 min then starting again & 50/50 chance all hell will break loose with graunching sounds or total lockup (or may start up no worries). Never ever worked it out, good luck. great motor apart from that
lookoutas,
Mar 28, 7:43am
Was expecting the read that you'd welded it whggsh!
Must have something to do with heat expansion.
attitudedesignz,
Mar 28, 7:51am
Once that bit of block (red circle in pic') gets a crack anywhere near it it's f**ked.
Problem is the amount of virgin or even good SBC blocks is tiny compared to 20 years ago.
Hell i had 11 of the damn things under the house at one time, used to be common as mud.
bigfatmat1,
Mar 28, 8:15am
Just out of curiosity does the reduction starter have a lead in on the teeth! I have noticed a couple that don't. I take it by not engaging You mean a nasty graunching noise not just a click.
attitudedesignz,
Mar 28, 8:21am
By the sound of what Glenn is saying is, first time the starter worked ok but the next time when the gear throws out it's missing the teeth on ring gear all together.
whqqsh,
Mar 28, 8:24am
Frustrating enough that I was close to gas axing the whole bloody thing in half at times lol
lookoutas,
Mar 28, 3:01pm
That's the problem, it's moving out of line. Get a snug fitting bolt made. Easy az if ya got a mate with a lath. Put 1/2" of thread on the bottom, tighten and weld a nut in place and ya got the right sized/shanked/longer bolt. Don't forget to do both bolts - and make a bracket to hold the front from moving.
mrfxit,
Mar 28, 4:40pm
Personally I would bore the hole out a little bit / tap a heavy tube up it & then weld the tube in place./ Aligning the bore hole would possibly be the hardest part.
mk3zephyr,
Mar 30, 1:38pm
Would brazing up the cast steel be an option!, if so what could i jam in there that the brazing wont stick to. copper /brass!, found a couple of chev starter bolts out in one of my mitsubishi bins, just need to cut the threads a bit longer
lookoutas,
Mar 30, 4:04pm
Aluminium - brazing is brass. And copper is a related alloy, so they will both braze. With that piece broken away, there's nothing to seat the starter properly, so it twists off line. That's why I'd bee making a substantial bracket for the front to stop it from moving. And use those proper bolts, they're not much bigger, but they make a huge difference by eliminating the slop.
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