O/T - rusty nail heads in timber

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unclejake, Jul 3, 5:55pm
Folks, has anyone got a decent method for sorting out rust leeching from galvanised nail heads in my home windows and weatherboards!

We get a lot of salt - and even ten year old nails, punched down 4mm, then covered with Selleys Permafill and acrylic paint are showing visible rust on the surface of cedar, pine and redwood timber.

I suspect the Permafill stays absorbant, but I am at a loss to cure the problem. Any proven ideas!
modie61, Jul 3, 5:58pm
We run a 12v current through them before hammering them home,works up here.
unclejake, Jul 3, 6:00pm
Eh! That was so not what I was expecting!

In the last couple of years I have been only using 316 SS nails, but the previous 50 years worth of nails remain a problem. We are on the Cook Strait.

The new SS window hinges I have been supplied with are total rubbish too. Gutted.
zephyrheaven, Jul 3, 6:14pm
Move to Central Otago unkie, no rust there
grangies, Jul 3, 6:24pm
Slightly irrelevant, but this is an informative and interesting read, about stainless steel.

http://www.estainlesssteel.com/corrosion.shtml
dr.doolittle, Jul 3, 6:33pm
Try a dab of Turgo's Black Guard on the heads before filling them.
net_oz, Jul 3, 6:35pm
Use some builders bog and not that Sellys shit. Then use some real paint.
icemans1, Jul 3, 6:48pm
have you tried using an epoxy glue on as a filler on it! ask for west system and make sure you mix some gap filler with the resin and hardener. they use epoxy glue when fibre glassing
dr.doolittle, Jul 3, 7:09pm
Cedar/redwoods tend to rust anything not stainless, or galvanised at the least, fairly quickly.
intrade, Jul 3, 7:29pm
i would start fitting new dualglazed windows one by one or the lot depending on budget
trogedon, Jul 4, 6:29am
I'd start this on DIY MB.
kazbanz, Jul 4, 6:37am
NOW for the galv nails in the wood you need to either remove them or rust treat them with one of the decent rust converters/sealers.Thats going to mean gaining access to the top of the heads.
With the rusty hinges etc it soundslike you fell into the old trap with stainless. steel. There are two grades of SS. I'm sorry Ive forgotten the actual numbers but one is marine stainless the other is for stuff like bathroom door hinges
I know one number is 316
pauldw, Jul 4, 7:33am
Stainless doesn't mean it won't corrode ever. I don't know if you've noticed that Telecom phone boxes have most of their stainless "low maintenance panels" covered with plastic.

"316 is more corrosion resistant than 304.

304 is generally what the building code requires (except in some Geothermal zones). The general rule-of-thumb is: use 316 if in a corrosive environment (e.g. salt in the air) and the stainless steel product is ???on show??
pauldw, Jul 4, 7:47am
This is Resene's advice, a combination of icemans1 and dr.dolittle's posts
"The most practical treatment is to locate the nail head and punch it further back in the timber.Treat the surface with Resene Rust Arrest if you can get it on the nail itself.Then fill with either putty or an epoxy filler such as Resene Epox-o-Bond, which is more effective at slowing the rust stain, but it is a two pack and much harder to use.The rust stain will reappear unless the source is removed.

In some instances the problem can only be managed by frequent
overpainting as the stain returns, simply because the corroding nail cannot be reached to be treated."
stevo2, Jul 4, 8:50am
Just punch the rusty galv nails well in or right through, fill with putty or similar. Put in a new S/S nail next to it, punch 3mm and fill. Paint over with 3 coats and the job is done.
Never use galv nails in cedar, they react and the nails rust. Use s/s or silicon bronze only.
xpfairmont, Jul 4, 9:17am
Paint the window rustic brown!

or as above.
dr.doolittle, Jul 4, 10:07am
Get them to move the beach.
pauldw, Jul 4, 1:12pm
What brand & size were they! Usually the holes need repair so it's not that big a deal shifting them at the same time.

One of the NZ ss hinge suppliers mentions that some overseas suppliers don't really meet 304 and 316 specs. I have some 304 300m back from Foxton beach and they haven't done more than tea stain. The supplier I used now has 316 so I might try them next.
zak410, Jul 4, 2:53pm
That's the only way, punch them through, as the nails would keep rusting/staining in the cedar.

As for the stainless hinges, (unless if marine grade), I was told that the 'pins' are made of steel anyway as stainless pin would be too sticky.
supernova2, Jul 4, 3:11pm
Our ali door frame appears to have stainless hinges and the pins run in a plastic(nylon!) bush.Sure stainless will gall but not if its properly lubricated.Who supplied those rusty stainless hinges!Another example of "made in china"!They look about as good as most of the galv items sold under the "Zennith" name.
stevo2, Jul 4, 3:25pm
If buying S\S hinges, stay away from the chain stores as they are all cheapies. Go to places like Mico metals, Ullrich, Steel and Tube and you will get better quality loose hinges at a similar price to those fancy blister packed Zeniths etc. Get s/s screws at the same time.
dr.doolittle, Jul 4, 4:11pm
What about alloy hinges! (Just a thought)
ema1, Jul 4, 4:13pm
Too true, but damn cold right now Zeph. If any hint of moisture gets under paint and freezes it lifts the paint clear up and flakes off wood sashes. Another thing is to use Stockholm Tar .if you can still get it, that seals any moisture away from metals in wood fixtures, used to be used in boats years ago in Scandinavian boat yards.
nathanmac, Jul 4, 4:21pm
Hey UJ, just let them go.Then you'll be able to buy a rusty rat rod to match your rusty rat house!I reckon it'll catch on up there - it's already a big look in the trendy coastal towns down here like Bluff and Orepuki.
unclejake, Jul 4, 5:23pm
Ha!

I ended up keeping the 201 SS BBQ as I just couldn't be arsed sending it back to wait for the 316 version to come in from Aussie. Seven months later the 201 unit is it significantly discoloured, but has not scaled nor pitted. it seems to be OK (just)