Well dont bash them with coldchisel,did that on oldlandy & it farked the stud splines in thehub .newstuds & redrill new holes .Tryheat& nut cracker & let it soak for day
thejazzpianoma,
Oct 12, 10:35am
Before you weld etc, mix up a batch of ATF and Brake fluid. Spray that on and leave it overnight. Just remember not to get any on any paint.
That mix is about as good as penetrating oils get and far superior to CRC which does almost nothing by comparison.
Sure you may still need to do something to get a purchase on those now rounded nuts but its going to make them turn a LOT easier.
BTW, if the nuts have an open top you might even be able to get creative. Like getting some hose that is a tight fit over top of the nut, you could tie or tape the hose upwards in a hocky stick shape and fill the hose with your aft/brake fluid mix. That is bound to get some worked into the threads.
gmphil,
Oct 12, 8:09pm
Worth a shot guna be hard to weld to that oil penatration
Butane weldin torch heatnutonly would help also
unbeatabull,
Oct 12, 8:16pm
You guys seem to be going to a lot of effort to remove a nut.
I am yet to come across a Nut I haven't been able to remove by either knocking a slightly smaller socket onto it or welding another nut onto it, then using my nice long 1m Breaker Bar on it. If it doesn't crack it off it'll snap the stud off instead!
mokaubach,
Oct 12, 11:40pm
You can increase socket grip by wiping just a wee bit of grease inside a socket and dipping it into coarse sand, works a treat.
pollymay,
Oct 13, 12:26am
I suggest heating the nut from the outside in, heat is easily obtained by loss of static friction via engagement of heavy drive while the vehicle stays stationary causing momentary loss of localised traction.
splinter67,
Oct 13, 7:35am
Small stick of gelignite that will get it off and if it dosent use more lol
robotix1970,
Oct 13, 1:38pm
nah go mythbusters on it with a concrete truck full of dynamite lmfao or freeze it with liquid nitrogen then smash it with a sledge hammer
splinter67,
Oct 13, 2:14pm
I like the way you think none of this boring weld a nut on it stuff
ola_bitchola1,
Oct 13, 3:33pm
i have a 1/2 inch drive set works wonders on rounded nuts
unbeatabull,
Oct 13, 7:05pm
Most reputable brand sockets & spanners all work on the flats of the nuts these days as well.
taipan4,
Oct 13, 8:00pm
carefully grind two parallel flats on the nut but without touching the threads on the studs then hammer on a piece of partially flattenedwater pipe with a hole drilled in the opposite end for a power bar, or even try a pair of vice grips on the two flats may work as the effective inside surface area of the nut has been reduced
thejazzpianoma,
Oct 13, 8:07pm
Fair point! Hopefully cleaning it up with the angle grinder should make it all good though. That said, I wouldn't actually be surprised if a smack with a cold chisel, smaller socket or some such would actually move it without welding after treatment it really can make a huge difference.
I use a commercial product (Kroil) which is about on a par for effectiveness, you would be amazed at the ease I get rusted exhaust studs and nuts off with that stuff. BTW, I prefer Kroil only because its forgiving on paint and I have it on hand.
philltauranga,
Oct 14, 6:00am
Man you guys are doing it the hard way. A trick I use never faild me so far on rounded nuts. Get a few small wood nails cut to the lenth of the nut then place them upright on the sides of the nut held there with tape if need be, now with the 12 pt socket they slide in the spare slots of the socket, hammer the socket over the nails onto the nut, you will soon work out what diameter nails to use, the socket will now grip the nuts tighter than a schoolboy.
chris_051,
Oct 14, 7:56am
Going to great lengths for a jappa, best bet would be to ring metal man, cma and take the thing away.
As for snap on, my snap on 1/2" socket set retailed for AUD 800 snapped the 14mm single hex clean down the middle with 1m of pipe on the end of it, two months old. I've had my koken sockets for 5 years and never had one break. People are mad on rattle guns, they are handy but will never off the same sort of leverage or turning force a decent bar will give
mrfxit,
Oct 14, 8:29am
Don't hit it harder, get a bigger hammer.
An impactwrench is like a whole lot of little hammers beating the crud out the nut. A log bar can apply a LOT of pressure progressively at once.
Try knocking a 4" nail in to a block of wood with a tack hammer . THENtry using a well aimed club hammer. OR Using a sledge hammer to knock a 6" round fencepost in to the ground . THEN try using a proper fence post rammer
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