Prick of a job grating it but when ya see the blocks and look at the size of the hole in ya radiator-and well i KNOW that method works well have seen others try the fit and forget and not the same result. Hope This Helps
bluecambridge,
Aug 13, 5:22am
snoopy221 Thanks grating sounds like the go would you recommend using both blocks?
snoopy221,
Aug 13, 5:28am
As per my post Number Five
Best application method is to use the old skool kitchen grater and grate up the blocks warm engine drop some coolant and insert ya 2 grated cubes top up drive for 20 kilomteres or so at highway speed and then leave to cool completely then recheck water
just kitchen grater grate over a sheet of newspaper and slip in to a plastic bag go for a drive warm er up and cap off squeeze ya top rad hose to displace some coolant insert ya bag full.
And after time cutting ya rad cap vacuum valve is your call myself i have never had to And as mojo49 posted advising that THEN posted back FURTHER advising that ONLY after the repair has been effected. As the product NEEDS the pressure to WORK
[the last ya can't grate without losing fingers just use some scissors to cut up]
Further edit repco supercheap and B N T all stock it
bluecambridge,
Aug 13, 5:37am
sweet as! thanks snoopy221 and mojo49 for all your help and advice! . and also for the entertaining discussion
john1623,
Aug 13, 5:37am
Degree in physics or not a 96 model car is not 32 years old.
ml6989,
Aug 13, 5:58am
Even when the car is 32 years old, it will not be good advice!
a.woodrow,
Aug 13, 6:02am
I wouldn't mess with the radiator cap either. I don't have a physics degree (and if I did, I wouldn't swing it around like a limp dick at a swingers party), but I have used sealwell a few times for customers and have always achieved best results with snoopy's instructions.
mojo49,
Aug 13, 6:11am
What would you recommend in this situation then if the head still leaked under pressure after your treatment ?
jmma,
Aug 13, 6:19am
Umm replace head :oP But then again, I only went to the 4th form lol
snoopy221,
Aug 13, 6:20am
Whaddya mean IF?
Or are you referring to the results you have had with chemiweld -and the reason i no longer use it?
And since you have asked a RELEVANT question then i WILL answer
If a year after seal well and towing a heavy trailer considerable distances and after very large hills a temperature gauge increase was seen under hell load then i would quite simply re-apply the product EXACTLY as it was applied firstly-as -the product information when read FULLY does explain that it is not an eternity product and may need to be re used
mojo49,
Aug 13, 6:21am
On a 26 (not 36) year old end of life car with 495K on the clock. Not a very good financial decision? Maybe there is a cheaper solution to keep it running until something else major dies? Let me consult my physics Stage 1 text.
snoopy221,
Aug 13, 6:23am
No need just read the post above [Edit-snoopy221 8:20 pm, Sun 12 Aug]
Let me consult my physics Stage 1 text.
Edited by mojo49 at 8:22 pm, Sun 12 Aug
mojo49,
Aug 13, 6:25am
You presume a 100% success rate. That will not always be the case with this age of vehicle. What do you do IF it fails at the first attempt?
snoopy221,
Aug 13, 6:27am
with this age of vehicle. What do you do IF it fails. As i posted and well that is a 90's vehicle and a large load up the mahoenui hill
Edits to add worst thing about presumptions before and after ya edit them
You presume a 00% success rate
You presume a 100% success rate
mojo49,
Aug 13, 6:35am
You are avoiding answering the corrected questions. What if it fails using your method?
marte,
Aug 13, 6:37am
The last two cars I bought, with a 'blown head gasket'. One had a broken water pump belt. $12. 2nd had a broken oil cooler. Free, already had one. Uses 2nd hand oil & filter after drain & some hot turps. Adding some transmission fluid & 5 mins later draining that oil for some 2nd hand (5000kms oil + filter) soonish. Run it for 500kms after WOF & put in some Chief 5-30 & filter & dH2O & G12++
First, find out if it actually has a blown head gasket'.
msigg,
Aug 13, 6:38am
Both options should work for a while, mojo49 is correct using that product and in that way, snoopy221 is also correct in using the other product, these are temporary solution for and aged car that is worth $500 or so.Mojo I have a willys jeep that runs exactly as you suggest, I have a small tank on the front of the grill(same as the long range desert jeeps had) that is feed from the radiator , this has been like this for 10 years no problems, it runs between 160 to 190 fahrenheight, I don't have a blown head gasket but run zero pressure in radiator, newer jap car will probably run a bit hotter?. Each to their own repairs, Both correct.
gusthe1,
Aug 13, 6:40am
So who can piss highest, Mojo or Snoopy
snoopy221,
Aug 13, 6:41am
Nope ya avoiding the damn answer i gave ya in post #36 And specified the hill i referred to in post#40
Or do ya need to actually READ the ! physics Stage 1 text.! And understand ALL of it
Rather than. Let me consult my physics Stage 1 text.
So therin let me consult my prior posts mmkay
marte,
Aug 13, 6:42am
Oh, & I had a tan gloopy clayish in my radiator fluid, water under the oil & tan too under the oil cap. That was under both of them, it was condensation in the one with the broken belt. PCV & plastic sump housing needs replaced every 70,000kms (lol)
mojo49,
Aug 13, 6:42am
Good summary. Thank you.
mojo49,
Aug 13, 6:48am
I had already noted than I ran an L300 and towed with it no problem. A caravan if fact and up North with lots of hills. If the cooling system is working properly it will not heat up and boil unless the demand for heat loss exceeds the reserve built into the cooling system. Long sustained uphill towing could cause that, but it did not with my L300. In the OPs case he is not suggesting he uses the car for towing, so the heat loss demand is likely to be well inside the system capacity up to 100 Deg C.
mojo49,
Aug 13, 6:51am
Don't be silly. It is about a solution that has worked but is unconventional against an experienced (I assume) mechanic, who has never been asked to think laterally about the problem.
snoopy221,
Aug 13, 7:04am
Ya dinnae need to denote people to prove any point laddie And as to the actual physics involved all you are doing is simply stating that by cutting the relief valve you are allowing an avenue for a failed head gasket/cracked head . repairer with no faith in their repair. [Insert cooling system being OVERLOADED by combustion pressure]. As ya ALREADY said
to take the pressure of the cracked area which minimises the risk of leakage and coolant lose.
Quote mojo49 (563 563 positive feedback) 6:49 pm, Sun 12 Aug #17
Ya still have combustion pressure that far exceeds radiator cap pressure and a few thousand against 13 against the same few thousand against zero
experienced (I assume) mechanic, who has never been asked to think laterally about the problem.
Quote mojo49 (563 563 positive feedback) 8:51 pm, Sun 12 Aug #49
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