Hi everyone three months ago i purchased a 2010 toyota vitz auto from a caryard in hamilton, lovely little car but after a week of driving i noticed that when i was sitting at idle the car would shudder and surge and this became more and more noticable to the point i thought at times the car was going to stall it becomes worse if heater or ac are running. Now ive been back to the caryard a number of times they checked the idle and reakon it was fine then he said it could be something in the transmission and put this blue stuff into the transmission part, kept doing it ( but never does it when we take it in) but passengers in my car have noticed it as well, then it was try 95 petrol in it instead of 91 tried that no differnce, went back again as it was intimittely doing on startup as well, so 6 time back in and he cleaned an air filter told me to give it a couple of days no still playing up, ive had the car not quite three months and ive been back in at least 8 times and getting really frustrated as he says he will trust have to keep trying different things each time, now i suffer from severe anxiety and depression so this isnt helping do i have the right to put my foot down and say get it fixed now or give me a car that dosent have issues (oh and when i go in he askes me what i think the problem is! HELP and took finance out to purchase this vehicle and want a car that works proberly.
bigfatmat1,
Sep 4, 5:27pm
Have they cleaned or inspected the throttle body and done a idle relearn?
bumfacingdown,
Sep 4, 6:07pm
Has it been plugged in for any fault codes or is he guessing?
gph1961,
Sep 4, 6:07pm
#2 not helpful ask for a loner while you leave it there to be fixed take a support person with you they are mucking you about
kazbanz,
Sep 4, 7:18pm
OP-I would be prepared to bet a chunk of cash that the problem is a REALLY easy one to fix. You have a dirty throttle body or Air flow meter. The symptoms you describe are classic for that in smaller Toyotas. The fix is to replace the AFM and usually clean the Throttle body. -Just to be clear -this is a VERY easy job done with the most basic of tools. -a screwdriver . When Im not sure I have swapped an AFM from a good car to see if it fixed the issue. On VERY rare occasions the throttle body needs replacing. bigfatmat also suggested a relearn which is usefull
I guess none of that ^^^^^^ helps you -you just want the car fixed. But at least you have a fair idea. I'd suggest you need to take the car back to the dealer and make it clear you want it fixed or you want your money back. YES you have the right to do that under the CGA after 8 times enough is enough. I know sometimes a fault loves to hide but 8 times is crazy.
tgray,
Sep 4, 7:26pm
I cannot believe they poured an additive in your transmission and sent you on your way! Do as Kaz says and if that doesn't fix it, formally reject the car.
yz490,
Sep 5, 1:00am
Would it pay to take it to the main toyota agent with workshop facilities & all the bells & whistles gear. I'm sure the car dealer is doing his best but tis a real problem if "the Problem" doesn't play up when there at his place. So scan it i dare say [not that i'd know to do it]. How do you clean a throttle body? is it take the complete butterfly unit off to the where it's bolted up & then what? air screw out etc & get in everywhere, will it be sooty looking [is, looking in my car]. Sorry, not asking original poster, just Kaz or someone. plus i should know, but never needed to know. Thanks in advance.
2sheddies,
Sep 5, 1:11am
I think most people just take the intake pipe off and get in there with a rag and a can of throttle body/ carb cleaner. You can also buy cleaner for the air flow meter too if I recall.
kazbanz,
Sep 5, 2:09am
With Toyotas its pretty easy to clean out the throttle body. You remove the intake rubber between the TB and airbox--2x 10mm head bolts. Then spray in throttle body cleaner-Personally I go to town with the stuff then scrub with what looks like a long handled toothbrush. Ive got a soft plastic "wedge" to hold the butterfly open.Scrub top bottom as deep as I can reach. With the AFM its held onto the air intake somewhere with two lil screws-undo em take it out and use afm cleaner. Put it back together and crank the car back into life.--it runs like a bag of poop for awhile with clouds of smoke. but about 2 minutes later it clears completely. Its an INSTANT yes/no situation. if its fixed the idle picks up about 300 rpm and becomes smooth instead of ragged.
kitkattheturtle,
Sep 5, 5:15am
Thank you for all your great advice I'm taking it back in tomorrow and putting my foot down with car dealer.
lythande1,
Sep 5, 5:40am
Punctuation always helps. "Blue stuff", most likely was transmission sealer. A total waste of time, if your transmission is slipping, it needs proper repair.
A wide variety of issues can cause engine surge. • Transmission slipping • Vacuum leak • EGR valve stuck open • Dirty/sticking IAC (idle air control valve) (P0505) • Engine temperature sensor • Knock sensor • Clogged EGR ports • Variable valve timing solenoid clogged/sticking
• Air in cooling system • MAF connector loose/intermittent connection/faulty MAF • Fuel system pressure issue • Clogged fuel filter • Plugged/restricted exhaust • Crankshaft position sensor (P0336) • Power steering pressure sensor circuit • A/C compressor cycling on/off due to low refrigerant • Faulty TPS • Clogged/restricted catalytic converter • Ignition system • PCV
Take it to another mechanic, and complain about this one when you have it properly diagnosed.
snoopy221,
Sep 5, 5:41am
Onya
And check who the issuer is on the warrant of fitness on the car-either a VTNZ or a garage the car dealer uses. Problem needs a reputable mechanic/auto electrician to
REPAIR
kitkattheturtle,
Sep 7, 4:55am
Ok so the saga continues, went back to the dealer , today he took it back to his mechanic now he told me that they were going to replace the throttle body sensor and change the airflow sensor and change spark plugs as well as check for errors, now when he rang me this afternoon he told me he was going to give me a loan car for a few days as the mechanic had said that the work they had done wasn't going to fix what we had described was happening. So we took bus back in to pick up loan car to be told you can take you car an error came up at the mechanic we have changed the coil . Dealer then proceeded to say he was 95% sure the problem was fixed, so once again off I drove in the car 15 minutes later the car is vibrating, surging, and engine fan going off and on. So over it 9 times in 3 months and I was told it's to late to formally reject it!
kitkattheturtle,
Sep 7, 5:01am
Whoops ment to say shuddering as well
strobo,
Sep 7, 5:49am
Worthy to check too is the air conditioning idle-up valve. It opens when you run the AC to let in extra air into the intake manifold to slightly increase RPM to compensate for the load at idle speeds.
mojo49,
Sep 7, 5:57am
Wait until kaz looks back in to this thread. I am sure he will. He knows the rules to a tee and will give you the best advice you can get. From the dealers mouth so to speak.
kazbanz,
Sep 7, 6:17am
U turn back to the dealer. Grab loan car. Letter rejecting the car by e mail or by snail mail. Find a replacement car. at the very least the car will actually be sorted out. -In the am Ill go through the whole procedure with you
mojo49,
Sep 7, 6:32am
Good on you kaz. i knew you would save the day for the OP.
kitkattheturtle,
Sep 7, 6:36am
Thanks kazband I'm just about at the end of my teather here
bigfatmat1,
Sep 7, 7:15am
Why is this not helpful
friendly_prawn,
Sep 7, 7:34am
If after following Kaz's instructions they wont come to the party, name them in here and show them the thread. The internet makes the world a very small place. After being named and shamed publicly, they are usually pretty quick to come to the party as they know their reputation is on the line.
don_logan,
Sep 7, 8:31am
Sounds like a IAC valve issue.
bigfatmat1,
Sep 7, 8:38am
pretty sure they dont utilize a iac on 2010 vitz because it uses a electronic throttle body.
kazbanz,
Sep 7, 10:13pm
Thinking about this overnight. It seems to me that the dealer is doing his best to sort the car out for you--he hasn't succeeded but he isn't walking away from it. So my recommendation to you is as follows. first of all Document what has happened so far. So what the issue is and when you have taken it back. -Dates and times and result. Don't be wooly--be specific with the issues and what happened when the car was returned.This is important because if the dealer actually only worked on the car twice and it SEEMED to be fixed they are doing it right. Next you need to write down what you want the dealer to do for you. Clearly that's rectify the shudder at idle and the hesitation. I would also make it clear you expect a loan car whilst its being done and that you do not want the car back until the car is fixed. (do be ware that may involve putting a few km on the clock) Then add in that this is their last chance. Make it clear that should you get the car back still with the issue you will make the move to formally rejecting the car. Please be aware that you can't have it both ways. Should you reject the car you cannot continue driving it. also if you have damaged it in any way--ie any accident damage at all then rejection isn't an option. Another option for you is to do what im suggesting up to the point of Rejection. Then as an option you could tell the dealer they have had 3 months to fix the car and haven't been successful. You want the car to go to the local Toyota Franchise repairer to be repaired at the dealers expense. SOMETIMES the software that Toyota have available is what is needed to sort out little Toyotas.--ive had it happen twice. The idea here is to be firm but reasonable in your approach. The "why should you?" is that you get way better help being reasonable at this stage that mss angry.
mrfxit,
Sep 7, 11:29pm
As far as I am aware from other situations, you are fully covered from the 1st reported instance. From that point onwards, it becomes a continuance error & has no limit until either party fully rejects the original deal & everything is returned & refunded etc. Also known as "unwinding the original deal" which includes any tradeins or value of, & finances etc.
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