Well thats the end of it. Right hand back, top corner just under the inlet manifold, is the oil filter & housing. Remove filter to get corner nut off manifold beside filter housing. Just found a 2nd nut BEHIND the filter housing & can't get access to the filter housing to remove THAT.
%$#$ %#@@ %@ $#@%$#$@ %$$ #%$%$ %$# %$ $ & blood mixed in for good measure. It's a motor out job.
I QUIT Anybody in the Hamilton area want the job!
ginga4lyfe,
Mar 3, 11:57am
Its practicly the same job on a Nissan Prarie or a Nissan GTIR or any other nissan with he sr20DE with AWD, yes its a prick to do, but once you learn how to get to the bolts it becomes alot easyer to do the naxt time!, and its alot easyer to do the starter motor bolts from the top :P
mrfxit,
Mar 3, 12:13pm
Yep realise that, just not sure how much blood I can spare for that or if the panels will survive. how do I get that bugger of a nut between the filter housing & head.
mrfxit,
Mar 3, 12:14pm
Can't do anything from the bottom on this model. You simply CAN'T see any of the motor or even get a hand UP from underneath. Never mind find the starter.
Been there done that had it on ramps & inspected while on the hoist at last wof
elect70,
Mar 3, 12:15pm
I thought the alternator on V300 bad . under rear exaust pipe /manifoldcant see boltsonly go by feelesp the bottom 1 which has to line up with block casting . The neighbours all shut their windows/covered kids ears
ginga4lyfe,
Mar 3, 12:40pm
you might have to take a pcture coz, im havingt a hard time remembering what one, and you actually can get the starter motor out from the bottom, it just requires a bit of wriggeling and being pushed well back of were the starter motor is bolted to, and you kinda have to find the Starter from underneath anyways to disconnect the battery terminal and the starter ign switch line, Oh it helps to have long extensions and a flexible extention thing to get at the 14mm bolts anyways
mrfxit,
Mar 3, 12:43pm
Theres no way to get a hand UP between the gearbox & the firewall on this model. . .unless you have freakishly small but strong hands yea got the tools, not the luck & running out of options
ginga4lyfe,
Mar 3, 12:57pm
Ahh I see the nut you are trying to get its one of many of nissan's "bastard" bolts, I doubt you will get that one out, But im having a hard time believing that you cant get under that car and slide your arm between half shaft and the firewall to grab onto the back of the starter, once the bolts are loose, you should be able to push the starter back with a long screw driver and be able to slide it out,IM soo trying to remember the layout of those gearboxes so i can remember how to remove it, but i can only remember the auto FWD boxes, it shouldnt be too much differant though
mrfxit,
Mar 3, 12:57pm
I suspect most ppl thinking about this are thinking of 2wd models & maybe other of the bigger body models This is a jap import u14 sr20De 2ltr AWD sss attessa Can't even find reference to it via google. All I can find is slightly later Altima's in a different body & the 2.4 motor
mrfxit,
Mar 3, 1:05pm
Who's got access to chassis # info!
mrfxit,
Mar 3, 1:24pm
Or the u13 models = slightly different beast
But heres the kicker for me. it's the wifes ;-(
phillip.weston,
Mar 3, 1:29pm
how about removing the inlet manifold!
mrfxit,
Mar 3, 1:34pm
AAAARRrrrhhhhhhhhh SSHITE Please re- read the thread & look at the photos.
phillip.weston,
Mar 3, 1:39pm
oh right, just another read and look. Can't get a spanner at all to that bolt!
mrfxit,
Mar 3, 2:21pm
Can only barely tough it with the shining light never mind a finger tip or spanner & then theres pulling the manifold along the stud past the filter housing to clear the end . . . me thinks not some how ;-( **** In reallity (just to make it worse) it's a stud (2 in fact)
mrfxit,
Mar 3, 2:22pm
So . which way to remove the motor . & box together I spose Can't see anyway to sepperate them seeing as they pretty much had to shoehorn the chassis out far enough to just fit the buggers in there in the 1st place. Do they come out the top ok or do I have to drop the bugger out the arse!
This is far worse to work on them a 253 v8 in a bambina or a 350 chev in a Hillman Hunter
jasongroves,
Mar 3, 2:23pm
Is it fully insured Mr Fixit!
mrfxit,
Mar 3, 2:28pm
Shut up jason .
wrong2,
Mar 3, 4:13pm
yes
its only just possible to seperate them & get the gearbox out on its own , but you have to loosen all engine mounts & twist th engine around & tilt it down to do it
they have a foot long output shaft . putting the gearbox back on with the engine in the bay is impossible
skin1235,
Mar 3, 4:49pm
aren't you supposed to drop the transfer box out first, think it is 4 bolts and the rear shaft and then there's enough room to climb in beside the engine - with a toolbox on your lap, lol
skin1235,
Mar 3, 4:52pm
pretty sure they are a dry connection between the gearbox and the transfer box, usually plenty of rust in the sleeve coupling which needs a gentle prying to get to slide out ( 9ft rock bar and 16lb hammer should be gentle enough)
robinm1,
Mar 3, 5:25pm
I am sure that the way to do it is to remove the rear bumper first, then work your way forward from there.
skin1235,
Mar 3, 5:33pm
ah but to remove the rear bumper first you have to remove the right rear tail light- and to remove the right rear tail light first you have to remove the bumper
3962,
Mar 3, 6:46pm
Hmmm.report it stolen! Take it to an industrial area & torch it! lol. Missus would love a new car & you could pick one that's easier to work on! Win, win.maybe lol
bigfatmat1,
Mar 3, 6:57pm
Lol I say it again they are not that bad to do first ones a prick Ill admit Ive done probly 20 or 30 of them Here is how i do itI can not do it without hoist though because I cannot get my body int the4 correct position. 1 disconnect batt 2 remove air filter and inlet pipe airbox and baffles 3 car on hoist up high 4 remove exhaust from manifold flange and the two hangers pry across and jam with pry bar. 5 reach up with a 1/4 drive 12mm long extension through the half shaft hole from wheel arch undo the batt supply remove cable reach in between exhaust and transfer disconect start wire 6 lower car undo starter bolts 7 raise hoist 8 twist and turn starter flip it round bring it out noise cone firstfrom underneath it will get tangled in hoses and wires so be carefull not to rip wires off knock sensor (done that) you may need to slide rubber bung up on oil switch and unplug that to removing out the hole is not to bad but remember the way it came out cause sticking it back in can be tricky. takes me between 30-45mins depending on exhaust bolts
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