yeah. pretty obvious. though the few times if used one they scratched the metal quite badly. maybe ill soak some wd40 in the gasket before removing it.
big.b-lil.c,
Mar 30, 12:22pm
i have had good lick with crc gasket stripper. if you give the top of the block a light sand put a bit of grease around the top of each cylinder any small partials stick to the grease then wipe it off with a rag
ginga4lyfe,
Apr 16, 11:47am
ok I put the engine back together, all fresh clean all new gaskets and all, even on the manifold for the carbs, and guess what! ITS STILL BACK FIRING THROUGH THE CARBS! , I even replaced the points while i was at it, and still no luck!, I had another go at tuning the carbs, but as usual, as soon as i have the mixture fiddled withI re balance the carbs and then the mixture is out again! , but right now. iv run outa money and need more fuel and i need a knowledgeable person to tune them properly for me!
skin1235,
Apr 16, 5:08pm
bugga, back to square one again!, would mixture cause the b/f!, can the carbs be tuned while there is b/f-ing anyway! both carbs or just one! ( tube by throat and listen)
by rights no engine can b/f through carbs IF the valves are closed, the timing is right, and the plugs are working as they should, however, to b/f they need a compressed charge ignited or self igniting while the inlet valve is open, this can also mean a left over charge from the previous compression ie exhaust not allowing the hot charge to escape ie blocked or exhaust valve leaking or opening too soon you've done some hard yards on this one ginga, could it be cross firing, leads etc on dizzy, even arcing in the cap - can you isolate which cylinder is causing it - pull the leads one by one, yes the engine will run rough but it may indicate that the issue is only on one cylinder ( no more b/f when a particular plug is pulled)- at least then it give you a focused target area and yes it is safe to pull the lead off while the engine is running, brave souls do it by hand, me I use good insulated pliers ( and try to be NOT touching any part of the car while doing it)
ginga4lyfe,
Apr 16, 5:31pm
Haha I'm a brave sole then, ill be trying the plug isolation technique, when I get my carbs back, I took them to a specialist to have a look at, then ill put them on the car and then take it back to be tuned by him, he reasons that as the choke was stuck open that it masked its problems
pdc1,
Apr 16, 7:19pm
I admire your preservation! good on you. One way to learn I suppose. p.s. this problem was highlighted in post 2 and many times after.
clark20,
Apr 16, 8:04pm
Hi Ginga, I had a problem on my MG and I played with the carbs, and valve springs etc etc, and found the engine builder had put the cam chain one notch out. Has the chain been played with!
ginga4lyfe,
Apr 16, 8:13pm
yeah. I do kinda repeat myself. though its probably therapeutic or something , I kinda feel better after my little complain b!tch and Moan haha
ginga4lyfe,
Apr 16, 8:16pm
, IM a little hesitent to check the timing, and it has come across my mind, but to answer you, I dont know that anyone has played with it, but i guess i can rip off the cover tomorrow - as the carbs are away, and double check the timing cant harm me too much, just that the damn haynes manual is useless and doesnt give any good detail on setting this sorta thing ( like the complete lack of valve clearance being mentioned int he manual )
jmma,
Apr 16, 8:31pm
You replaced the points, but did you do the condensor!
ginga4lyfe,
Apr 16, 8:33pm
yup, replaced everything except the rotor and the cap, I cleaned them up to remove any posible tracing, but I might just go and buy a electronic ign pack to replace the points and replace the cap and rotor altogether
jmma,
Apr 16, 8:59pm
This one may sound dumb, but are you check the firing order in the right direction, Lift off dist cap, turn engine to see which way rotor is turning and make sure you are checking the order in that direction, btw what firing order are you doing!
ginga4lyfe,
Apr 16, 9:28pm
My firing order is 153624 , or so i believe ( this is off the top of my head, its written on the shock tower ), and yeah, the rotor is spinning anti clockwise
clark20,
Apr 16, 9:34pm
The lead actually stays on the seats and valve for quite some time, so if you get a valve grind you removed it, and recession would be fast after a rebuild.(if you did not use leaded gas)
ginga4lyfe,
Apr 16, 9:43pm
and on that note, Were do i get a Fuel Star thingy! and what are they like price wise!
pdc1,
Apr 16, 9:49pm
Most engines you will find that you can check the valve timing by watching top dead centre TDC and the rockers. If you get it on TDC Number one and watch number 6 rockers and rotate the engine forwards and backwards, you should find that one should open one way and going back the opposite way it should change to open the other after TDC. i.e. The rockers will rock at the TDC point. While you are at it check TDC is marked correctly. Lots of different ways of doing this. Simple way is to put something down the spark plug hole and feel what is happening. I've heard of many Hi-tech ways too as well as using soapie water around the spark plug hole and watching whether the bubble goes in or out. I'd get your carbs back on and get the carb guy to check them. If he knows what he is doing, it won't take long, and hopefully he can give you a wealth of knowledge at the same time. With the loose plunger and the choke not returning jet properly fixed, I'm sure it is going to go a long way to fixing your problems, and fingers crossed for you - everything.
pdc1,
Apr 16, 9:53pm
Probably from the same place that sells Snake Oil. Please do your home work. I struggle to believe in that product.
pdc1,
Apr 16, 10:04pm
I wouldn't worry about your valves and seats unless you are continuously doing high revs, or are running a engine with really hard valve springs. I have a number of old vehicles (that I've owned for more than 20 years) that don't have hard valves or seats and have never had any problems. Also I wonder what hardening effect a valve has in an old motor. It has been hammering up down millions of times. I would be more inclinded to make sure that you have your ignition timing correctly set at all times and not retarded and that you use the lowest octane petrol possible i.e. not using 98 when your engine will run fine on 91. (I'll get out the popcorn and go and set on my chair and watch the entertaining replies to this) Save your money on buying additives and put it towards collecting good second hand heads, or fitting inserts and valves one if every needed
ginga4lyfe,
Apr 16, 10:14pm
hmm IM still skeptical on it myself, though i have heard of a few old austins running better on the snake oil called fuelstar ( all it is is tin pellits! ) otherwise, the triumph i think has done little over 200000kmsand when i had the head off I almost gave up with blistered hands trying to lap out most of the pitting in the seats, the valves were next to perfect otherwise, so im feeling a little inclined to run a bit of leaded fuel or additive with my normal fuel, and why run 91! is it because the cars were designed to run on 87 in england! I gotta make it known that the car is NZ new though , just dont know were it was built
pdc1,
Apr 16, 10:36pm
Probably in Nelson I guess. I just threw the comment in about 91 for humour! I don't know enough facts about it, but an old guy told me once that using too high of octane will burn exhaust valves eventually. I don't know the truth. I know a retarded ignition certainly will, as well as costing you performance. I also think that if your engine is designed to run on 87, you won't see any financial benefit to using 95 or 98 over 91. Also if you find your engine runs better on the higher octane, I think you will find it is because something is wrong that needs fixing. I feel a lot of people bag 91 as a bad fuel is because they don't know how to fix their car. A car with ignition problems maybe masked with the higher octane, but it doesn't fix the problem.
I wouldn't worry about the additives either. Maybe Morleys! but if your car will run on 87 and you use 91, you could add a little kerosine, maybe a couple of cups to the tank. Some additives will foul plugs and creat carbon etc.
ema1,
Apr 16, 10:50pm
Does this car have a crankcase ventilation valve unit plumbed into the inlet manifold, it looks like a round item about 2.5" diameter and has a spring wire holding a lid down on top of the diaphragm/PCV needle valve assemblyinside the unit under the "lid" I reckon the PCV diaphragm (if it has the unit fitted) will be split allowing excess air to enter the inlet manifold causing rough/rich running. It's a common item to be overlooked.
skin1235,
Apr 17, 5:09am
fuelstar!, why not just build a pile of $10 notes and set fire to them, if you must use an additive then use valvoline or similar at the pump ( small syringe you squirt into tank as filling - who remembers redex but any such additive will alter octane rating - fine if everything is okay and you wish to use it but it is not a mechanic in a can, and all it would do is mask a problem, possibly introduce another problem ( incomplete combustion will foul plugs, and a high carbon additive will be especially difficult to remove from a fouled plug - its designed to cling, and at combustion temps too, and designed to survive fuel wash, so what do you use to get it out of there!
air leaks are my nemesis, if I am having a problem that seems unfixable, you can bet it will be an air leak, I can search for ever, squirt oil etc still the neighbourhood is in whiteout mode, use tubes to listen to even the headlights, and still not find it - ask a mate to have a look and the first thing he'll find is a cracked hose ( usually in full viewand an utterly dependant one on the components thats the obvious cause of the problem ) air leaks and I don't mix, we are oblivious to each other that said I still say ignition somewhere, tracking, crossfiring, condencor, ( new points fitted - did you clean the new points before fitting - they have a film on them to protect against rust in shipping which can effect them after they actually have a current flowing through them, did you also replace the base plate earth wire in the dizzy, did you lift the base plate completely and check the springs below, and the counterweights, and their pivots etc, light grease or good oil can make a huge difference under there
skin1235,
Apr 17, 5:18am
I see in the photo's it does not have a pvc, not uncommon on most of the older engines ( unless it is in the line coming from the tappet cover), suggest you remove those two lines and block them fully for now, they could be a lot of the issue, they certainly allow unfueled air to the inlet manifold after the carbs, and you don't want that even as a potential - block them off securely ( leave the tappet cover ends open to let the engine breathe - they can be run without safely and at least till you get the issues sorted
ginga4lyfe,
Apr 17, 5:41am
I did find one air leak between the carb and vacuum advance in the hose, all other hoses have been checked over or replaced, and yup no PVC valve , not a bad idea to remove the breathers from the equasion, Ill do that, not sure how ill do so just yet though, and no, i havnt checked below the baseplate i dont think, and i havnt replaced the baceplace ground wire, probably is a good idea though, and since its raining today, I think ill pull the unit out the car and give it a good thouragh check/service and yup I cleaned out the points
skin1235,
Apr 17, 6:23am
split those hoses at the tee, and jam an old spark plug into them, top first, should seal them suffice for a temporary measure as said air leaks and me don't mix, I can triple check all hoses and joints and still not find a crack big enough to drive a match through, anyone else can see a gaping great hole and claim they can hear it from the front gate - me I cant even see where it's leaking, lol I see in the photos you are using the blue plug leads, not suggesting you go buy a new set but in your kit do you have a set of the old wire leads, those blues were carbon leads and they do break down after a time, wire either works or doesn't work, the carbons are not so decisive, while they assist with less interference etc than the wire ones they can also give more troubles and harder to diagnose troubles - not sure if you can even still get the old wire jobbies anymore under the base plate you should find a clean oil moist environment, if it is dry and rust coloured ( a common occurrence) it will not harm your attempts to resolve the issues if you give it a good dismantle and clean, even drive out the roll pin in the bottom gear and remove the shaft completely ( note which way the gear is facing although I think they were offset pinned so could not be put back on a half a turn out - slotted drive - the worm gear drives were immaterial about which tooth was were, it's up to you to retime it correctly when refitting it recheck the cap for carbon brush center, and did it have any tracking between poles - prick to repair if it did, they may look clean now but they will continue to track regardless, best method is clean with hammer on vice, new cap fixes the issue
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