It looks like that, the pin layout and stuff. Just imagine a hole like that on the back of the amp.
jasongroves,
Aug 21, 6:03am
Amp is 2 channel.and not very powerful at all, not really suitable for a sub IMO. Looks like it was an amp used in a factory installation. So.I'm gonna guess that all the correct wiring is still in the car it came out of. Don't know if its bridgeable or not, some photos of both ends would help a lot. Even bridged, the actual amount of power you will get will be about 60w into one channel.
jasongroves,
Aug 21, 6:14am
I would be wanting some actual specs for the sub too. There's no indication at all as to wattage or Ohms in the ad. I cant imagine that it will be able to handle a hell of a lot of power, but Im pretty sure that wee amp wont cut it. Looks more inclined to be used to run speakers. There's a wealth of knowledge here: http://www.the12volt.com/
drew2009,
Aug 21, 6:16am
Yeah that amp doesnt sound like much of a sub amp at all, more like two component speakers. You can get yourself a bridgeable amp for your sub cheap enough just keep looking, allow about $100 on trademe. if you have enough outputs you could even run your current amp two more component speakers and another amp with sub.
jasongroves,
Aug 21, 6:20am
You can have as many outputs as you wish;) More component speakers! He doesn't have any to start with.;).lol
andrea_w,
Aug 21, 6:29am
+1 to everything Jason has said.
jasongroves,
Aug 21, 6:33am
Normally just a small sliding switch fixed to either side of the amp.I doubt that amp has one. A low pass filter allows low frequencies (bass) to pass through, while blocking higher frequencies (treble etc).
jasongroves,
Aug 21, 6:34am
Drunken golf clap for me;)
jasongroves,
Aug 21, 6:37am
Onsell the amp or use it to learn from. There is most likely a way to get it to run some speakers without the correct cables.make your own:)
OP : Be aware though, you're sound system is going to sound like utter crap with a sub (I mean no offence here :) ). Currently, your speaker set up is nothing to rave about, you would want a GOOD pair of 6" components up front to run with a sub. All you're going to hear with the current set up is bass and treble with REALLY crappy quality and trust me. it's unpleasant to listen to. I've done installs where all I can do is cringe at the final result, but the customer wants what the customer wants. The stereo isn't going to help the issue either with its low power internal amp and poor sound control. What type of car are we talking about! I'd like to know if it's possible to get speakers in the doors (it's worth it, if you can) as I'd hazard a guess the 4" are in the dash. If I were you, I'd at least be getting a 4 channel amp to power the front speakers (assuming you can get some components to fit) AND a sub. OR use that Carrozzeria amp to power fronts and get another 2 channel amp for the sub (make sure its a decent brand/amp and it MUST be bridgeable). That way you get much more sound control where you need it too - the front speakers.
Again, I mean no offence. but I've done many installs with a similar set up (cheap everything) and the result is a looong way from impressive, let alone nice to listen to.
michael.benn,
Aug 21, 8:38pm
I listen to lossless in my car at the moment and it sounds phenomenal andrea, so don't get my intentions wrong ; I just want more bass than my current speakers can provide.
My current speakers themselves have very decent sound quality, trust me, I'm a clear crisp audio junkie :P
At the back it has a rectangle shaped female port SIMILAR to that pink one in the picture - does that help ! It's got 8 holes in it.
michael.benn,
Aug 21, 8:39pm
Oh and andrea, I have a 1996 Honda Accord VTi ; the 4 inch JVC's are in my front doors.
jasongroves,
Aug 21, 8:43pm
Pictures please:)
steph1211,
Aug 21, 9:17pm
waste of time need atleast 250w to run a 1000w sub
jasongroves,
Aug 21, 9:47pm
Which 1000w sub are we talking about here! Peak power or continuous/root mean square!
michael.benn,
Aug 21, 10:09pm
I don't think the sub I got is 1000w. Probably more likely 600-800w or maybe less. Who knows. It should arrive tomorrow.
What did you want pics of!
jasongroves,
Aug 21, 10:40pm
Each end of the amp showing connections.
michael.benn,
Aug 22, 12:44am
I'll do it a bit later on :)
Cheers for your help so far jason btw
richard198,
Sep 15, 10:42pm
I agree with the amp not being powerful enough. I'm not fussy about car sound (used to install stereos & alarms) so all I use is Pioneer head, old Pioneer GM 1000 amp & All Stars (500W) sub. Works fine. I suspect your sub to be similar (400-500W) but 50W won't even wake it up. It's not essential to have an lpf (mine doesn't) but it helps .
the_don_61,
Sep 16, 12:55am
I've got a as new car sound system I dont need anymore
Alpine CDR head unit plays MP3's and has read out on face for song tags. top alpine head unit plus 1600watt amp and sub, plus a pair of 350 watt 6x9's. . and all wires , plus head unit is fitted into a underdash box.
but your plastic bumpers would fall off if you cranked it up.
sw20,
Sep 16, 1:39am
You know you are dealing with amateurs in car audio when they quote max power watts.
marte,
Sep 16, 2:35am
Op, I think thats a RCA plug. Thats what connects the sound to each amp.
You need to look at the switches on the amp you want to use for the sub, you need to connect that up to the headunit & then to the sub (match the amps, RMS only) then switch the amps low pass filters 'on' for the sub speaker.
You may be able to switch the low pass filters 'off' for the surround speakers, gives them a little more power & helps them to not phase each other out (not really a problem but.)
Its not much help without pics here, I guess, though.
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