My car is being a jerk

pollax, Dec 20, 9:28am
so here's the deal. i own a car. the car was running mint until about a month ago. now after about 10 mins of driving the revs drop and i can't even let itidle (at lights etc) without it dying on me. i have to restart it each time with my key. drives fine when it's actually in motion but soon as i have to stop it cuts out! when it does this i can't turn the steering wheel either, so yeah, it's kinda dangerous.the weird thing is that it runs fine and idles fine and doesn't die on me for the first ten minutes. on my way to work every day in pretty much the same spot it starts playing up.any one have any ideas!

andrewph, Dec 20, 9:31am
An air leak between the air flow meter and the manifold or dodgy throtle position switch.!

snoopy221, Dec 20, 9:35am
red.white.silver.blue car!
Or a mitsi that has had a flat battery recently!

pollax, Dec 20, 9:37am
ok so the one other person i've asked about this mentioned air flow meter as well. i'm guessing this might be where the prob is. i know nothing about cars at all, but if two random ppl mention the same thing then it sounds like it might be the prob. thanks andrewph, will look into this

pollax, Dec 20, 9:38am
hey.

it's a mazda eunos presso

next-to-normal, Dec 20, 9:39am
could be water in the fuel, if so pour some meths into the tank and see if it gets better

franc123, Dec 20, 9:44am
It may not be the air flow meter itself but the rubber pipework that goes between the meter and the engine on many '90's Mazdas was shocking for going hard and splitting open over time, made worse by it being stretched and bent when checking or changing the air filter.The other possiblility is that the throttle body needs cleaning out and perhaps the base idle speed reset as needed, again this is common on injected Mazda engines of the era when they get up in the kms, they don't pass enough air through the throttle when warmed up and thus you get stalling.

pollax, Dec 20, 9:49am
Appreciate your advice, cheers.

thejazzpianoma, Dec 20, 9:59am
+1 I agree on the rubber pipework.
I have found more problems caused by vacuum leaks like that with perished rubber hoses than ones actually caused by air flow meters. Not saying its not the airflow meter or something else, just check the inexpensive and most likely option first.

morrisman1, Dec 20, 10:06am
My B6 twin cam is doing this too, I havnt sorted it out yet, I have made a temp fix by adjusting the throttle butterfly screw but it makes it rather difficult to start.

My symptoms are exactly the same, once warm it wont idle. I will be checking for vacuum leaks too