On a serious note 69 steel what are the km's and price!
thejazzpianoma,
Mar 4, 6:20pm
It seems a good price. Philip Weston could tell you more in detail what to look for. If he dosn't come along soon you could start a thread with his name in the title. I havn't had that model but the previous generation one in automatic we had was fairly thirsty so do be aware of that.
69steel,
Mar 4, 6:22pm
Not sure about the scratches on the side. What would I look for if it has been in a prang! They obviously not worried about covering it up. The guy said it has been serviced every 10-15ks but has no papers for that
jasongroves,
Mar 4, 6:26pm
Maybe he serviced him himself! Everyones definition of a service is different. Most people see a regular oil and filter change as a 'service'. When in reality, there is more too it than that. Really needs to be up on a hoist to see if its been in a serious prang.
thejazzpianoma,
Mar 4, 6:27pm
While I think of it, its probably due for a cambelt. Be aware of that, check on it and factor it in to your budget. Remember too, that cambelts need changing at a certain number of years (usually 5) OR a set number of km's whichever comes first.
With regard to a crash, look for slight variances in the colour of panels (but ignore plastic panels like bumpers as they never match the rest of the car.
Look for evidence under the bonnet etc for screws holding the mudguards etc having been removed.
Look for fine scratches left from sanding under the paint, this is a sign of having a respray.
Look carefully at the backs of the headlights for evidence of them being broken and glued back in place.
Remember its really only evidence of a major prang you should worry about. If you see signs of the above then getting the opinion of a panel beater etc might be wise.
jasongroves,
Mar 4, 6:29pm
A proper independent inspection is your safest bet. You can specify anything extra you would like checked, along with normal stuff like a compression test, fluids and other serviceable items checked, underbody damage or rust, previous repairs etc etc.
69steel,
Mar 4, 6:29pm
Thank you so much tjp. I had thought about the cambelt too as it hasn't been done so will factor that in. I will also take it to a mechanic and get them to look at it. Cheers
69steel,
Mar 4, 6:30pm
Ok thanks jason.
jasongroves,
Mar 4, 6:33pm
You will also want the transmission checked as this is something serviceable that is too often forgotten and can lead to expensive repairs down the track if not maintained. In essence, its a decent looking, basic and easily looked after car. Parts are easily available and not too expensive either.
thejazzpianoma,
Mar 4, 6:33pm
Just remember with a Cambelt that it makes the most economic sense to do the job properly, that means tensioners, waterpump and often oil seals should be changed at the same time.
Doing the basic checks yourself can mean you can rule out any obvious "lemons" without paying for the mehcanic. If it passes your test taking it to a mechanic like you intend is well worth while.
Also, when test driving make sure the Auto feels smooth and changes as expected. Listen for clicking sounds when turning tight corners slowly at full lock (signs of CV joints worn) CV's are not end of the world but are a common problem and do cost to replace.
thejazzpianoma,
Mar 4, 6:35pm
Remember too. its not the only car in the world. If you are not happy with it walk away. There are plenty of great cars around for that sort of money.
You are doing the right thing not paying absurd money for a high km example of the more overpriced and popular models in that segment.
69steel,
Mar 4, 6:35pm
Ok thanks guys!
thejazzpianoma,
Mar 4, 6:37pm
Your welcome! Good luck and don't feel rushed doing your checks. Its a lot of money and a tricky purchase. A bit of time, careful looking and common sense will often find potential issues even if you don't have a lot of mechanical knowledge.
It would be great to hear how you get on!
desertcolt07,
Mar 4, 6:37pm
ask your self "will this get me layed!" lol
foxdonut,
Mar 4, 7:13pm
Alarm bells:
Single owner lady driven.
Translation: #Passenger side front wheel curbed. Alignment out, tyre rubbing on inner guard, steering wheel not aligned. #Clutch worn #Car makes all sorts of knocking, grinding and beeping sounds - not a problem, just "part of the cars personality".
Car has been driven locally only to work and back
Translation: #Never taken over 3000 rpm. Valves gunked up, exhaust full of soot, cat converter on last legs, engine efficiency down 20% #Clutch (again)
No accidents, no dings or dents.
Translation: #except for scratches mentioned through out the car
69steel,
Mar 4, 7:18pm
yeah I get what you mean. I rang the guy and asked about accidents and he firstly said no accidents. I said what about the scratches on the side and he basically said it's because of the cars age and may be from supermarket trollies which I think is bs. Looks like an accident to me and I know nothing about cars. What you reckon!
69steel,
Mar 4, 7:20pm
Oh and I should also add that he is a real estate agent pmsl. Now what do you reckon!
bigracket,
Mar 4, 7:28pm
Personally I think its a bit of a heap and you should look for aomething else that dont begin with the letter M
69steel,
Mar 4, 7:31pm
Like what do you suggest!
foxdonut,
Mar 4, 8:46pm
Depends what you want and how you define it. Some would say their Rover 220 Tomcat was reliable, same a Toyota Cavalier, but the general consensus (general as in 99% of people) would disagree.
Some want a fast car. If you've driven one of the 13 Dauer 962LM-R's in the world you probably have a different definition of fast to most people.
Define what you want and the board will narrow it down. Personally I'd scratch anything from the following manufacturers if I wanted a soulless but reliable and cheap to run to work car:
Rover, Mitsubishi, BMW, Mercedes, Volvo, Holden, Ford, Saab, Alfa Romeo, Audi. Actually, thats going to take to long.
Just go buy a Honda Accord or a Toyota Camry.
69steel,
Mar 4, 11:18pm
thanks bigracket. Would a 1.3have a bit more guts than older models being a 2003!
bigracket,
Mar 4, 11:30pm
Well it would not be a racing car, but you will have no problems sittin at 110 all day long. The big advantage is these have a cam chain not a belt so no problems there. I just think you can tell alot about the history of a car by the way its presented. Others may disagree but thats my argument. Good luck with the new car.
bigracket,
Mar 4, 11:33pm
The dangler in hanging from the rear vision mirror would have to go though LOL
foxdonut,
Mar 5, 3:21am
I drove a Sunny with 1.1 million on the dial from Auckland to Wellington once.
I'm not going to say "it was amazing, like it was a new car!" because that would be bullshit - it wallowed, creaked, stank, crawled and the windsheild wipers didn't work properly. BUT, in its defense, it did get there in the end under its own steam.
69steel,
Mar 5, 5:24pm
yeah I was thinking that would be the case. If there is 4 people in the car it might not go too well lol
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