Has anyone done the front breaks on these! Do you need a special tool to replace them!
manifestdestiny,
Mar 25, 9:41pm
Nothing has broken I'm asking about the front break pads, all these comedians!
intrade,
Mar 25, 9:45pm
be the same as any car is my guess. (rear disc brakes) only need special tools on all cars i know off not just that one.
manifestdestiny,
Mar 25, 9:45pm
sorry brakes just really tired.
jsbike,
Mar 25, 9:47pm
no special tools needed, not even a socket set if its got twin pot fronts, and the rears need no special tools either, the park brake is a seperate drum brake
manifestdestiny,
Mar 25, 9:52pm
Car failed the warrent cause of brakes being low I have done them before on a ford but not on an import so was just wondering if there was any special socket required before taking the tyres off. Not going to pay a garage 140 dollars to do the breaks when I can get them for under 50 bucks for the pads.
twink19,
Mar 25, 9:59pm
would you do your own surgery, or will that be after your brakes fail
jsbike,
Mar 25, 10:03pm
you sit down to pee!
manifestdestiny,
Mar 25, 10:05pm
Its only brakes not rocket science I have done them before just never on a japanese import. They are not that hard to change!
intrade,
Mar 25, 10:06pm
like i said they are all the sameall you need is tools 2 eyes and a brain. you soon seehow its done if you use the above things
rlnhrd,
Mar 28, 9:08am
cefiro heaps easier then ford, shouldnt have any trouble
sandypheet,
Mar 28, 9:15am
So why are you asking Einstein.
jsbike,
Mar 28, 10:43am
dumb men dont ask questions, smart ones do.
sandypheet,
Mar 28, 5:07pm
And those that dont know what they are doing get someone who does to do the job.They are the smart ones.
jsbike,
Mar 28, 7:15pm
only if after questioning the job they decide its above them.
phillip.weston,
Mar 28, 7:18pm
should just be two 14mm or 17mm bolts holding the caliper onto the hub carrier, once the caliper is free from the rotor (using a pry bar or a large screwdriver to get the caliper over the lip of the edge of the rotor). Once the caliper is free, remove the brake pads - then crack open the bleed nipple (perhaps would pay to free up the nipple while the caliper is still mounted to the hub) and with a one-man brake bleeder tool attached (basically a clear plastic tube with a one-way valve at the end) use a G clamp or a brake caliper spreader to push the piston(s) back into the caliper, so the top of the piston is approx level or 1-2mm above the surface of the caliper. Close off the bleed nipple and remove the bleeder, then fit the new pads and put back together. Personally myself I would then re-attach the bleeder and push through say 100-200ml of brake fluid through each side to ensure the lines are air free but also to flush through the old fluid which no doubt wouldn't have been changed in years. Don't ever push the fluid back up through the system by pushing the pistons back in and not opening the bleed valve - if the fluid is dirty your ABS pump will not like it at all.
thunderbolt,
Sep 6, 7:06am
I am not a fan of those who dont know messing around with a safety item like brakes. Will the untrained eye check minimum rotor thickness, and uneven rotor wear! or that the caliper slide are free! Does the untrained eye know what you can get away with when it comes to rotor damage from worn out pads! I have seen pads fitted with the friction side out, even pads fitted back to front! (Pads sitting with the curve opposite to the rotor curve).
I am not suggesting the OP would make such mistakes, but many people who dont know any better make these errors. The life you save by getting a trained and competent Mechanic to maintain your car might just be someone close to me.
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