im restoring a MK1 capri and we are now ready to have the colour coats put on , the car has been in primer for the past 3 years , can someone tell me if its ok to just apply the colour or should I rub back the primer with 400 grit wet and put another coat of primer then rub that back with 600 then colour coat?
gunhand,
Jul 5, 10:58pm
Depends on the primer. If you know what it is all good if not worry. Was the car bare metaled first or is it over paint? But in short, the less time the better really. But some primers will be fine.
attitudedesignz,
Jul 5, 11:01pm
90% of primers are porous so if it was me I'd be sanding quite a bit of the primer off and resealing with an epoxy then some two pack primer.
brokebloke1,
Jul 5, 11:02pm
it was baremetaled then epoxy primer, body work done , then primed with a known laquer primer. .
attitudedesignz,
Jul 5, 11:04pm
Sand it down to the epoxy. You don't want any lacquer primer anywhere. It's more porous than a kitchen sponge.
gunhand,
Jul 5, 11:06pm
If thats the case should be ok. I would pick a random area and sand it back to metal and see whats going on under it. Seen many a stipped car with surface rust under the primer. Usually that means a very expensive (or time consuming) re strip if don't want ya paint bubbling in a few years. Lacquer primer? What sort of top coats are you using?
brokebloke1,
Jul 5, 11:09pm
I did use a acid deox to condition the surface, rust off before the expoxy went on im just going to use Lacquer top coats as im doing it at home unless Gunhand you can recommend something other
attitudedesignz,
Jul 5, 11:09pm
And what was the "known" primer? A lot of lacquer primers have been taken off the market in the few years.
brokebloke1,
Jul 5, 11:15pm
it was PPG dulon bought off spraystore here in chch
gunhand,
Jul 5, 11:18pm
Sounds all good to go. As for top coats, skys the limit. Depends what you are comfortable using really. If you have good technique modern paints should be ok. And in my opinion they are actually more forgiving over a correctly primed and prepped surface. But unless you have clean area to paint (or like polishing) in lacquers can be the way to go, dry quick and little shit seems to get in it, and a bit safer to use. But you would be well masked up anyway a?
brokebloke1,
Jul 5, 11:21pm
thanks Gunhand just one more question for final rub back before colour coat with Laquer is 600 too fine or too coarse
gunhand,
Jul 5, 11:22pm
What colour? Solid colour opens up a few good options.
gunhand,
Jul 5, 11:23pm
From memory yes 600 was fine. I use 320 hookits or 500 sheets most of time. 400 for 2k solids.
brokebloke1,
Jul 5, 11:24pm
just going white with blue see profile picture
gunhand,
Jul 5, 11:30pm
Well since I read ya quote i'm not answering lol. This whole painting thing comes down to price and what you want at the end really. 2k solid works well and is cheaper than base coat and clear coat. You can get whats known as CV 2ks (commercial vehicle) and they work just fine but are much cheaper than regular 2k solids. Ive done a few in it and they last just the same. Also with 2k solids it gives a period type finish to the car, don't ask why lol. But if you paint say a 57 chev in it it just looks correct for its time but BC CC looks to new. Whats you ability with a gun like assuming you are doing it?
grangies,
Jul 5, 11:34pm
Brokebloke? Do you have the gear to cut and polish the lacquer? .
There are some excellent 2K products out there these days, that will be touch dry within a few hours at room temperature. If you're confident you can get your garage clean enough, I'd be going 2K.
There's even some great 1K marine enamels out there, that will give you a nicer and tougher finish than acrylic lacquer.
brokebloke1,
Jul 5, 11:35pm
ive painted cars in the past about 15 yrs back with old suction sprayguns this will be first time with a gravity gun ( my go back to suction if it turns to crap LOL )
gunhand,
Jul 5, 11:38pm
Well sounds like you have the skill set, so ya half way there. You won't look back once u use a decent gravity gun, or smack the roof with it lol.
brokebloke1,
Jul 5, 11:39pm
hope so im using a 1.5mm needle with Laquer
gunhand,
Jul 5, 11:44pm
What I would do is go on you tube and look up GUNMAN, auto painter. He has some of the best straight forward vids with sensible and easy to understand instructions. Real world stuff. He works in BC CC though but you still could learn abit as a refresher.
brokebloke1,
Jul 5, 11:46pm
thanks for all your help
lookoutas,
Jul 6, 1:27am
Just a little advise here - and assumption.
If you have bogged anywhere over the 2K there won't be a big problem. But if you have bogged, sanded it down and broken through to the bare metal - then re-bogged onto the bare areas, then assuming your lacquer primer could be porous, will mean moisture can penetrate through the primer, whereupon the bog will soak it up and start rusting where the bare areas are.
If the car has been under cover all the time, then the worry is almost completely negated, other than condensation.
Have just done a car that had that problem. The bog was virtually peeling off with a scraper knife.
mottly,
Mar 9, 4:38am
Be wary about it being damp. I'd be sanding it back and giving it another coat n light sand
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