Your Welcome, gee I spend to much time on these boards.
dent,
Oct 3, 11:42pm
The head has been checked aye !
noddybabe1,
Oct 4, 1:51am
yes, head is getting checked and pressure tested again on wednesday, so ' van wont be up and running till next week'by the sounds of things .
noddybabe1,
Oct 4, 2:00am
thanks. have bought new thermostat. funny thing is, temp guage has never got into the red. just in between half way upand red.
. and this has happened.
. with the thermostat in. and thermostat out :). lol.
. your comments are appreciated, thank you.
noddybabe1,
Oct 11, 1:13am
. head tested again . is cracked.
apparently it might not have been tested whilst warm last time. hence not finding the crack.!
cant see crack with the naked eye. so don't know how long it has been.
found out that ALL the head gaskets we have bought. are the wrong thickness.
should have been 1.35 not1.2(bloody repco!) as marc asked for the thickest one.
no refunds there :(
soooo, have got a new head and a new gasket.
will be put in tomorrow here's hoping.
the best part of all this 'expenditure' is that we could have bought the complete engine waaaaay back when offered one for $500.00
.shit happens.:)
noddybabe1,
Oct 11, 2:11am
here's some random info for you.
marc just got home from picking up head.the guy said that the other head we bought probably cracked inside the thing (hence why cant see it)
. because REMEMBER when we FIRST torqued the head to the specs, the dowl things were too long as the holes hadn't been drilled out when the head got planed and pressure tested the first time.
(but we didn't know this at the time as didn't think to measure the things)
soooo, this is could be why it cracked. .and went through so many gaskets.!
marc be ringing the mechanic tomorrow to see if they will 'come to the party' or not
. hmmmm, interesting.
noddybabe1,
Oct 13, 6:49pm
ok,latest update.
.another completely different qualified diesel mechanic has done the latest put together of new head and thicker gasket.marc just 'observing'
compression tested everything. all good, no leaks.
checked everything everyone else has. all good.
he took for a 1/2 hr drive with marc. not good :(
he having a whiskey now.
. marc not having a whiskey. he's used to this happening. :)
soooo,another overheat, and another week goes by till marc off shift work again.
noddybabe1,
Oct 13, 6:54pm
random info.
repco database gives the gasket for a td27 being BS200.1.2 thickness(of what we have been given 6 of.)
after giving repco the license plate number, they looked it up in a book. it came up BS200U 1.3 thickness for a planned head is what it needs.
noddybabe1,
Oct 13, 7:07pm
. anyone else want to join the
'head banging and banging and banging and banging . against a brick wall'club!
running out of ideas here.:(
intrade,
Oct 13, 9:14pm
its probably got a blocked core of the actual engine block. plus has that mechanic used a hair line engeneer level type thing to see if the block is not worping bent. I know that the nissan z20 bend the block if they overheat. i made 2 engines in to 1 once and wont be doing that again was almost 50h labour that i tradedfor some building material in the end. It all starts with that you dont dick around with old radiators like i told you at the beginning. once you can be sure one thing is rooled out for good step by step.
noddybabe1,
Oct 14, 1:09am
. thanks intrade for your input / help.
the block has been looked at by 4 different mechanics now. and they all say it is fine. within spec. (no more than .03)water galleries all clean/good etc etc
and yes, if we had another 2 1/2 grand to spend on a new engine. we would :)save us all this trouble.
. but have spent so much now that we will be left with a heap of scrap metal. so sort of have to carry on really.
the radiators have been cleaned and checked twice. am not sure if they are going to be done a third time. and no the top radiator is not new. but might as well be. said the radiator man.
latest update is that that the rear heater hoses are going to be blocked off to eliminate that side of things. and maybe buy a genuine thermostat. even though the new one we got is a good brand apparently. blah blah blah blah.
intrade,
Oct 14, 1:15am
you can run it without thermostat if it is the only way to make it not overheat.the thermostat is only real important on a computerised engine. downside would be heater wont get real hot. fuel consumption wont go up and engine wear wont matter on a rooted engine like that if it wears a bit faster running colder then standard. My 88 safari nissan had no thermostat fitted and i never botherd to fit one.
noddybabe1,
Oct 14, 2:08am
yes, the latest mechanic had the thermostat in .
noddybabe1,
Nov 5, 3:38pm
ok, so van will finally be worked on tomorrow.everyone asked has had no idea what else can be 'checked' etc.
BUT, the guy/shop where we bought the brand new head from, said that the only other thing he could possibly think of is that the dowels have been bent from the first head that did not have the holes drilled out when it was planed, so the head has not been torqued down flat, even though the torque settings say it is etc.
(curved the head etc, so that would explain why the crack was not visible and why the second head checker man said that the crack was inside the head, not on the plate bit.)
so, the guys are going to either take one, or both of the dowels out and sit the head on with yet ANOTHER gasket and see what happens.
thermostat will be left out.
will update tomorrow if this works.
edit:and might explain why way back the 2nd and 3rd bolts needed retorquing twice. !
skin1235,
Nov 5, 4:03pm
in this whole continuing saga, has anyone looked at the fan, you say it is a viscous hub
I've recently had an issue with a ford tractor, all sorts of problems similar to yours without the head cracking or warping, constant water needed, no leaks, radiator has been in and out a few times, the water pump was replaced and the fan was bolted back to the new pump etc,, several thousands of dollars later and it was still playing up
finally noticed that regardless of hill up or down etc and seemingly regardless of load, trailer or plough etc, when the cold southerly is blowing and I'm facing into it the temp immediately goes down, and stays down until I turn away from the wind
a loop of haystring around the spokes of the hub flage and around a blade on the fan, and it will now work all day with no issues
they want over $800 for a new viscous fan, meanwhile I've replaced the haystring with a couple of heavy cable ties
just finished 3 weeks of solid ploughing and working up of paddocks, power harrowing after ripping etc, the old tractor has never worked so hard in such a short time in all her life, temps have not been an issue at all, I replaced the cable ties after they wore out and temps went up one morning ( 2 a.m.) seriously considering pulling the rad to get the water pump out and drilling a bolt through the viscous fan
next time it is going, lock the fan by some means, (string, wire, cable tie etc) and see if the problem is solved, if you can just bolt a ridgid hub fan on there
kngfhrt,
Nov 5, 11:45pm
is tha timeing out of wack! had heating problems in tha past and that was tha answr after doing everything esle!
richardmayes,
Nov 6, 4:11pm
Multiple radiators and thermostats later, she still overheats every time.
(1) Is the water pump good!
(2) Water galleries in the engine blocked up with crud and/or chemi weld!
ozz1,
Nov 6, 6:42pm
after 5 or 6head jobs. ! why is marc upset!. check the viscous fan
noddybabe1,
Nov 6, 11:32pm
thanks,it runs and sounds 'beautiful' on 4 cylynders, so the guys say the timing is fine.
noddybabe1,
Nov 6, 11:33pm
lets not go there :) ha ha.fan all good
(marc is sitting here going"write fanny, write fanny! "
ha ha
noddybabe1,
Nov 6, 11:35pm
skin1235 wrote: in this whole continuing saga, has anyone looked at the fan, you say it is a viscous hub
thanks. yes fan checked
noddybabe1,
Nov 6, 11:35pm
ok, so todays update.
blown again.
noddybabe1,
Nov 6, 11:43pm
compression test was fine when not running.
was not fine when running obviously.gauge looked like rev counter.
when turned off, it holds pressure when not running.
blew compression rings on all four cylinders on gasket,
no surprises that this is definitelya compression issue.
the gaskets are all blown in the same place give or take, down the middle, in between each cylinder, so not clamping down properly
obviously taking both the dowels out did not work.
thermostat was out.
soooooo,we now are going to check out the price of getting the block checked at a reconditionors with a dti gauge.
and maybe get planed.!
or wait for one of you guys to feel real sorry for us (hee hee hee) and offer to give us a
bloody new engine!
xoxo
p.s is not a cooling issue as is blowing gasket before getting hot.
noddybabe1,
Nov 6, 11:47pm
thanks, appreciate all the suggestions.
found out is not a cooling issue.the above has been checked and are all good.
the_chooky,
Nov 7, 2:28am
So how much has it cost so far.!
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