Reviving the van!It is alive!the block is not cracked!
happy happy joy joy!
intrade,
Jan 26, 8:03pm
ummmmmmm your still messing with that heap. i was gone for over 2 month now did think you finally crushed the junk I told you the blocks is likely bent near the oil gallery inserts. I spent once 46h to fix a bimming Z20 nissan engine
intrade,
Jan 26, 8:07pm
so what did you do to fix it put a other engine in as i said to do months ago.
mechnificent,
Jan 26, 9:19pm
So nobody has suggested pulling the frost plugs out and cleaning the water galleries!
noddybabe1,
Jan 31, 9:00am
sorry guys, haven't been back in here to reply.
not really sure still re engine as was just wishful thinking by writing something positive for a change. and whala!have just bought a new engine that will be put in this week all going well :)
no, no one has mentioned the frost plugs, so no the boys had not checked them.have bought this engine so will have to go in, and marc said they will have a look at the frost plugs. in saying that it has another blown head gasket (gotta laugh here) so he is not wanting to buy yet another one :)
(the van has been just sitting all this time)
thanks for your tips.will have a brand new head for sale soon on trademe. only done 10 km's !xoxohonest!
incar.,
Jan 31, 9:31am
crack in the block! or as intrade stated
mechnificent,
Jan 31, 11:05am
As I understand it, it could sit and idle and it didn't get hot. right!
But as soon as you drove it, and especially if you put your foot down, it got hot. right!
Ok, well at idle the fuel only gets injected for a fraction of a second, and it's near top dead. As you start to push the vehicle the fuel gets injected for longer, and burns as the piston is going down. the cylinders get a lot hotter, and the exhaust temerature goes up as you push them. If it idles for a good long time and doesn't get hot, then gets hot quite suddenly when you start to push the vehicle. it's the cylinders not being cooled.Clogged/dirty water jackets!
budgel,
Jan 31, 8:32pm
Hey Noddybabe1, Many thanks for your continued posting on this, it has been very entertaining.(unfortunately for you).
I have little experience with diesels so have not offered any advice, but agree with mechnificient, blocked cores frequently happen after, or cause continued overheating issues.
Tell Marc he gets an A for perseverance!
Good luck!
noddybabe1,
Feb 1, 8:30am
thanks, you might just be a legend!no, water jackets not checked either, so will check them when engine out.might just have an engine for sale too!
noddybabe1,
Feb 1, 8:31am
thanks! things are looking up :)
noddybabe1,
Feb 2, 10:56pm
You have been amazing the whole way through intrade, so thank you again!
your help and others in this thread and all the ones in motoring have helped a lot of people, and that is pretty cool :)
marc said thank you to re the winns-edt, and asked if he gets that through super cheap auto!and is this the deisel conditioner / lubrication that you mentioned when you where talking with him!
xox
intrade,
Feb 2, 11:09pm
you need winns-edt because the new diesel damages rubber seals and winns claim to prevent this by adding the additive counteracting this shrinking - also the new fuel does not lubricate correctly. I use chemtech additive on my diesel where i run norrmal diesel. I also only own european diesel who are slightly less prone to this seal problems and chemtech dont claim to prevent seal shrinkage only winns-edt do- You can buy winns everywhere and it myght be wise to try and buy it bulk to get it cheaper as they are 12$+ a bottle chemtech is much cheaper but if it dont stop seal shrinkage then you will still have to replace the seals one day costing from 700$ to 1600$ . I just got a corolla diesel here with diesel pump pissing out was marked as wof issue.
awesome intrade thanks, marc needs a hand obviously getting the engine in, so the boys will do it next week now, so great timing with your info :)
mrfxit,
Feb 2, 11:57pm
Couldn't be bothereed reading all this crud above . SO .
Spot on. Cracks or warpage or blockage SOMEWHERE in the engine or cooling system. Maybe even in several places. FIRE your past mechanics & either GIVE UP to sell the heap (can't be called anything else by the sound of it) OR fit a complete replacement engine OR take it to a FULL FRANCHISE company dealer to fix (not a garage with a franchise or naming rights etc). Sorry but diagnosing the heap from reading your 1st msg said it all for me.
noddybabe1,
Sep 12, 4:39am
5 head gaskets later. now onto the 6th. told to keep thermostat in on the 5th (by a deseil mech) -have been told to keep it out (by another deisel mech)
now.this thermostat has a 'foot' on it. sooooo do we put it IN our keep it OUT!
radiators all cleaned etc etc etc.so this is the last fix. or will be a bullet in the thing. anyone with definate answer please!
franc123,
Sep 12, 4:45am
5 headgaskets!There has been some serious and repeated misdiagnosis go on here.Has it been found out why it keeps blowing them!You've either got a bent or cracked head or the cooling system isn't keeping up due to a crook radiator, water pump not working correctly etc.And no you shouldn't run it without a thermostat.
NZTools,
Sep 12, 4:45am
Always run a thermostat. Without it, the coolant circulates too fast, and doesnt spend enough time in the radiator to be cooled properly before re-emtering the engine.
Also, if you've done five headgaskets, how many times has the head been planed and crack tested!
ss2fly,
Sep 12, 4:52am
As the others have said. It is more than likely an issue with the head not being true or the block. Either way, not really a cheap fix. The gasket should not keep blowing. I had a mates Honda CRV that kept overheating so I pulled the head, replaced the head gasket after checking the head was true (there is a special way to check) replaced the water pump, flushed the cooling system and pressure tested the radiator. All fixed now. As you can see there is a lot to it to do it right.
noddybabe1,
Sep 12, 5:33am
i suppose i should have included the story behind it. bought a van off trade me with blown head. but still drove.anyway, cami weld didn;t work (could've though). and was told that they had 'done' the radiators. did the waterpump, kept blowing hoses off etc etc. finally after 5th gasket. checked radiators.blocked completely.sooo, where we are at now. ison or off thermostat. kept blowing by the way after only 10 minutes. or 1/2 hour.never got really hot.and had no coolant in it at first. just water.re head. it got checked twice.planned etc. and holes not drilled out the first time by the people. (properly done). reading above, i dont know if the radiators where pressure tested.
intrade,
Sep 12, 5:35am
chemi weld welds the thermostat shut also packet clearly would sayremove and run clean water What diesel is it!
noddybabe1,
Sep 12, 5:36am
bummer. hubby just come back from 10 minute drive in van with thermostat out. told him you guys said keep it in. he shitty anyways with the thing. :)sooo, he said it is not bubbling. water level gone down for a change (used to it coming up and bubbling over. then spraying) soooo, he is now putting thermostat back in.
noddybabe1,
Sep 12, 5:37am
no, no cami weld in it now. has been flushed about 6 times. and is only plain water in it at the moment. no anti freeze either
noddybabe1,
Sep 12, 5:38am
and have checked that the thermostat opens in a cup of boiling water
intrade,
Sep 12, 5:38am
dont put it back in if the radiator is blocked l to 80% Lol.
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