Basic Car Mods! VR4

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dyln.sampson, May 31, 4:46am
Weird bcos On the engine badge it says 6a12TT

dyln.sampson, May 31, 4:47am
Ill get it install professionally, doesnt it just measure air flow!

_peas, May 31, 4:50am
And just so you know a boost gauge does nothing at all. besides telling you what pressure is being seen by the intake manifold.No more power. nothing really above what your car is doing normally.Kinda like spray painting your brake calipers. does nothing, looks a little rice. kinda gay.

jasongroves, May 31, 4:57am
So you are saying that they are of no use at all!

phillip.weston, May 31, 4:57am
All 6A12 means is that it's 1998cc and part of the 6A1 family of engines. There is no designation for SOHC, DOHC, EFI, Turbo etc. On the engine block you will only see 6A12 or 6A13 stamped. The 6A13 has a taller engine deck height and displaces 2.5L, regardless if it's SOHC or DOHC. 6A13 can be a SOHC non turbo engine or it could be a DOHC twin turbo engine. Most people commonly add 'TT' to the end to designate that it is a turbo, but again on the actual engine block you will not find TT or any other suffix stamped on the block.

_peas, May 31, 5:00am
Not unless you need to know what pressure you are running.Might be useful if you had modified the wastegate, exhaust, played round with a tap or other boost controller.But on a stock car. no.Pretty much throwing money away.

phillip.weston, May 31, 5:01am
The 6A12 is a much smoother and refined engine than the 4G63 in the earlier VR-4, but the last of the E39A's matched the 6A12's power output of 240hp and 300Nm but the 4G63 has proved to be far more reliable especially when huge power increases are asked from the 4G63. You only have to compare the size of the rods of the 4G63 compared to the 6A12 or 6A13 to see what I mean. I think the 6A series would be well sorted if they had a better rod/piston combo, as everything else about the block is ideal for higher output - ie four bolt mains with reinforced crank girdle, closed off valley for rigidity, crank driven oil pump etc etc.

jasongroves, May 31, 5:03am
.you didnt say that in the original post though! All you basically said was that they are useless gay rice.;)
Even on a stock car, if you wish to have one so that you know instantly if theres a boost pressure loss or leak then why not!

johnf_456, May 31, 5:05am
Correct

_peas, May 31, 5:07am
In this instance I would safely put it in the useless gay rice category yeah.The car is stock, the OP asked in another thread where to find the turbos which indicates very limited mech knowledge (no offence intended).I sincerely think that any information gleaned from a boost gauge by the OP would be as much use as someone giving him a basic lesson in a rebuild of the engine. speaking Japanese.

jasongroves, May 31, 5:08am
Fair enough.everyones allowed their opinion;)

phillip.weston, May 31, 5:09am
I wouldn't go over 300-350hp on a stock 6A12, the rod bearings are just too small due to the compact 6cyl engine design and they tend to degrade heavily when under more stress than factory, resulting in excess clearance and the piston crown hitting the cylinder head, and then rods breaking or bending due to metal fatigue.

Put it this way, the following pictures are from a NON TURBO 6A12

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l230/te71se/93%20Galant%20VX-R/sump1.jpg http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l230/te71se/93%20Galant%20VX-R/pistons.jpg

jasongroves, May 31, 5:10am
Crikey! What a mess.

phillip.weston, May 31, 5:35am
yep, and that only happened because the previous owner had the heads reconditioned (and skimmed) but didn't touch the bottom end. The resulting sudden increase of compression ratio proved to be too much strain on the bottom end which decided to let go just a few weeks later.

moosie_21, May 31, 10:50pm
Then the first thing I suggest you do is get re-registered in your name, that way if she DOES come back and wants it, legally it belongs to you! Use your brain man!

ct9a, May 31, 10:54pm
dont you all know the best and only way is buy .

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putting a rotor in it

flockton55, Jun 1, 2:14am
Aha! Thanks for that info, very interesting, had never heard the real story.
So. as OP says his is a 6A12, does that mean that it's a VR-4 7G with a 2.0 twin turbo V6 engine! Or is this the previous 6G, ie up to 96!

dyln.sampson, Jun 1, 3:56pm
correct its a 6a12TT(twin Turbo) V6 engine 7generation 1996 96 was the last year they made this shape

dyln.sampson, Jun 1, 3:56pm
No need for smart remarks!

phillip.weston, Jun 1, 4:02pm
6th gen (E39A) is 1987-1992 shape with 4G63 2.0L 4cyl
7th gen (E74A/E84A) is 1992-1996 shape with 6A12 2.0L 6A12
8th gen (EC5A/W) is 1996-2002 shape with 6A13 2.5L V6

r15, Jun 1, 4:12pm
best way to get a faster car is to buy a car made as a faster car, if you cant afford to buy a factory faster car, then i guess you cant afford to own a faster car.

most aftermarket performance parts require skill and experience, and usually modification to fit, with out this your car is going to end up being really slow, like fred flintstones car but youll have to run behind it

phillip.weston, Jun 1, 4:31pm
^^ I wouldn't say that's quite true, there's plenty of cars out there which can be made to go much faster with modifications, just the 6A12 (and even 6A13) powered Galant VR-4s aren't one of them. If you do modify them, then you need to be careful with what you are doing as it's an engine which doesn't stand up to an improper tune or modifications carried out poorly.

There's a guy in Chch who has had about half a dozen of these E84A 6A12 Galant VR-4s, and just about each one he has managed to get into the 12 second 1/4 mile bracket with just the basic mods such as high flow air filter, larger free flowing exhaust and more boost. He eventually found the weak point (other than rods through the block) was with the rear diff housing shearing away from the diff mounts.

There's plenty of E39A 4G63 powered Galant VR-4s in the 10 and 11 second bracket, NZ held the title for a while with the fastest at 9.51 seconds and it was street legal and made the pass on street tyres. At the time it was NZ's fastest street legal import. The guys in the US have caught up though and have a few doing the same times, if not faster.

johnf_456, Jun 1, 4:50pm
Yup but just to note r15 does not even work in the automotive industry, just something worth noting with his knowledge.

_peas, Jun 1, 11:24pm
I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss those that don't work "in the trade".I don't and while I'm surely no mechanic, I service my own car (always have), including cambelts.I would hesitate to commit to a rebuild but just because someone doesn't throw spanners round all day doesn't mean they don't know what they are talking about.

Part of what r15 said is pretty bang on.Fitting after market parts can do as much harm as good depending how they are installed.Take the humble pod filter.I know that since we are all "in the trade" I don't need to say how that can hurt the numbers.I'm sure that more than a few young guys have tapped a controller into the wastegate actuator line and given themselves a few jollies without a second thought as to what the ECU is mapped to or what the engine could safely handle. it just goes faster. for a while.These are not exactly huge $$$ parts either, access to them is pretty simple.

paddy1234, Apr 30, 11:42am
vr4s are alot of fun. i have legnum vr4 manual around 200kw atw. heavy but can move when ya want it too. Runs 14.5 psi