Has anyone got any idea what could be causing my Temp gauge to rise in my Honda accord, I have done Oil change, Water change with antifreeze/antiboil, new thermostate, new temp gauge sensor, new radiator top hose as was split and new radiator cap, tested on diagnostics scan tool and says all clear bill of health, everything working, I use a IR thermometer shoots at head where temp sensor is and when needle in car says red hot, IR themometer say 95degrees and both fans trying to cool system down, I also notice that gauge only rises above 100kph or on an incline, the car never smells hot but it puts hairs up on ya neck seeing this needle shooting to the red zone constantly, have seen no eveidence of oil in water nor do i need to top up radiator, this has all arrised since fixing an hunting/ surging idle issue due to fast idle valve being gunked up and playing with the cooling system, any help would be great if someone has anything to add that I haven't tried, cheers.
rob_man,
Jan 2, 8:53am
Water pump might have worn out impeller vanes.
pickles26,
Jan 2, 8:56am
Airlock bleed the system
thejazzpianoma,
Jan 2, 9:04am
What temperature range is the rise/fall happening within! i.e Does it go above 90! Does it float around fairly low, say 60/70 and then rise closer to but not exceeding 90 on the inclines!
skyhigh1,
Jan 2, 9:19am
I have concidered the Waterpump, What are the tell tale signs the pump isn't working other than temp issues, can you see it with radiator cap off, I thought with it off when you rev engine and the water rises to near spilling out the top of radiator then the pump was working!, I have bled the system about 4 or 5 times when hot, switch off engine wait a moment then release valve till air stops popping out and only pure water/antifreeze coming out, needle during normal 50kph and 80kph holds just under half way mark, get to 100-110kph or start to incline and gauge will slowly rise to 3/4mark if not climbed to the red zone, If i have heater on full above 100k it will suck temp gauge back to under half way and ya think sweet, then 5mins later in the same state @110kph or if I climb a hill ie Kaimais, It still goes to the red zone with full on heater, I thought it was telling lies but I put new sensor in and same result, so old sensor was fine it suggests.
daryl14,
Jan 2, 9:27am
Bleed with engine running instead of stopped. Have you overheated it! If so, think about testing for head gasket issue.
franc123,
Jan 2, 9:36am
Your radiator is mostly blocked, the fact you had a gunged idle valve should have been a giveaway as to what the rest of the system might have been like.Pull it out and get it properly cleaned/rodded out by a specialist, and hope the head gasket hasn't suffered from overheating.
skyhigh1,
Jan 2, 9:52am
Ok thanks people, I will have to go as far as checking out radiator, altho it had a replacement at some stage prior to us owning car, Ive also had no idling issues since so thought the gunk had cleared out but guess it could get stuck in the core, if none of this works it maybe a engine repower, seeing i only got the little puppy f18b non vtec, might source out an f20b and costs of swap out and rewiring if it's need for cpu, but for the expense and value of car would rather fix what i have.
thejazzpianoma,
Jan 2, 10:00am
I agree with fran123 but also think you should consider changing the waterpump anyway. If nothing else, running in sludgy stuff can't be good for its seals and may be a liability down the track. They don't cost much so if its easy to get to I would do it if it were me.
sharon.nz,
Jan 3, 7:58pm
My FTO was doing that when I bought it so I replaced the sensors $100 and it sort of helped but not properly so I bought a new Radiator, problem solved.
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