Trailer braked coupling

tweake, Sep 11, 12:29am
any know why we don;t have any USA trailer couplings on the market?
NZ ones are from the dark ages and the USA (and UK) have all the good features.
USA ones are in our commonly used size (UK ones tend to be 50mm).

just had to change to a spring type surge brake couping from a hydraulic damper version. the damper version works a lot better but is expensive and unreliable.
the USA ones are a combo unit and have cheap replaceable dampers in them.

m16d, Sep 11, 12:43am
My 40 year old Trojan over ride brake system still works just fine.

franc123, Sep 11, 12:56am
So does mine funnily enough, the Trojan hydro override couplings only give problems if not maintained properly, as does the rest of the brake system. Readily available parts too.

tweake, Sep 11, 1:03am
lucky !
our first one lasted 6 months.
got the new heavy duty version. thats lasted a fair few years but then started blowing the seals. which then cause brakes to come on to much and burns out the pads. new seals last a few weeks to a few months.
just put new one in, master cylinder faulty.
then found coupling was jammed !
kinda getting sick of fixing brand new Trojan gear!

also that everything on the market is so old tech.

tony9, Sep 11, 1:39am
They are on the market. Ebay and many other sites have them and if you buy from UK freight is OK.

tweake, Sep 11, 2:00am
any local sellers?
any legal issues to their use here?

tony9, Sep 11, 2:05am
Should not be any legal issues, imported caravans from UK and US don't seem to have any issues.

This place has AL-CO http://www.trailerpartsnz.com/index.php/couplings-towballs-c-74

brapbrap8, Sep 11, 2:30am
The ultimate solution would be to change to Sensabrakes, they are very good to tow with, particularly for a heavy load.

tweake, Sep 11, 2:41am
like your thinking :)
it would be a very nice system to have.
catch for us is trailer gets used by multiple vehicles which even with electric brakes requires wiring, controllers etc.
plus the cost of the setup. $$$$
for the weights we tow the surge brakes work well enough. the spring only ones are rough and hydraulic only ones are unreliable.
i just would like to see the spring + shock absorber type here. best of both worlds.

martin11, Sep 11, 2:32pm
Have had both types of Trojan couplings on trailers and the one at present is a spring override type and the trailer was made in 1996 and because I grease it regular it has give no problem , normally has 1.2 ton + on it .

There are German couplings available in NZ already . AL-KO but they are similar to Trojans .

captaink, Sep 11, 4:14pm
I tow every day, 90% Trojan couplings and fix maybe one per year and that more to lack of use/ maintenance( I have 60+ units) and replace one every two years or so. Maybe you are working yours a bit hard?
All my electric units under/ around 2500kg I have thrown out the in car controller and fit Trailquip's Brake Controller (BS3579) on the chassis/trailer allowing ANY vehicle to tow the unit. They retail for around $350, simple to fit and haven't failed me yet.
More expensive units for heavier loads but I have found the above unit ok up to 3 tonne. Units is adjustable, just not from in car. I found I never /seldom touched the in car unit anyway just bumped it with my knees all the time.
Also found fitting 'in car' controllers more and more difficult with computers etc, and little room on the dash to mount and also drilling holes where you don't want them.
If you want expensive try replacing the pads in some Euro anti sway couplings.

mm12345, Sep 11, 5:14pm
For a constant weight load, the standard override couplings are fine IMO - so long as they're adjusted properly. Problems come in if you've got a trailer with lightweight springs in the coupling, then load the trailer right up. Less of a problem the other way around, as with heavy-weight coupling setup but an empty trailer, so long as the tow vehicle brakes are okay, having virtually no brakes on the trailer might not be an issue - I doubt I'd be able to notice if the brakes were working or not towing my boat trailer with the boat off it. With the boat on it at >2 tonnes, then it's a different story.

tweake, Sep 12, 3:00am
we do a mix loading.
from quads to livestock, timber, you name it.
during summer its get loaded to its max (2500kg gross) every day.
so it gets well used.

the spring ones are okish, no doubt reliable (after i fixed the manufacturing faults). but they are just rough. not ideal for live stock. you stop then you get the boot up the rear from the trailer (yes its adjusted to spec) and thats only with the side by side on.

the hydraulic one is really nice, a lot of the horse floats have them. go down hills, even do emergency stops, and its like the trailer isn't there. nice progressive and smooth.
until the seals give out.

is it really that hard to mount a damper on like most of the UK/Euro/USA ones ?

xs1100, Sep 12, 4:05am
be careful running it to 3 tonne considering they are only legal to 2.5 and electric brakes far better for horse floats and carting live stock not so harsh on the braking

urbanrefugee54, Jul 1, 9:11pm
I have a UK 2004 Bateson horse float & it's got: 'Auto-reversing over-run brakes are required on all wheels and all equipment must comply with E.U. regulations.'. which is 4 wheel braking & I can reverse. I had to put a 50mm tow ball on, but put a 'change a ball' - which means when I use the ordinary trailer [1" 7/8] I just swap with the push of a central shaft.