Can anyone reccomend a wheel bearing pressing service in west auckland ? Staring reparing a trailer but old bearing are to far gone so need new one pressed in.
kazbanz,
Oct 24, 12:44pm
ANY decent workshop will be able to do it. Where SPECIFICALLY in west Auckland are you--ie suburb.
wouldes,
Oct 24, 1:01pm
Kumeu or swanson/henderson woud be great
budgel,
Oct 24, 1:51pm
I had trouble getting a workshop that was willing to press some bushes for my Brother's Jaguar and ended going to my local hire centre. They let me press them there, but off site because of health and safety stuff. They were cool with me doing it in the public carpark outside their premises. I just manhandled the press back inside when I had finished. About $15 as I recall.
mrfxit,
Oct 24, 1:53pm
Generally, we always did our own bearings. Hammer & 5mm or 10mm pin punch.
The housings have notches for removing shells
intrade,
Oct 24, 2:13pm
put the bearing race in freezer and warm the hub and you can whack it in with some wood after before it heats up and binds. Then you tighten go for a drive and recheck for play again after.
duncb,
Oct 24, 2:24pm
Almost every mechanic will have a press. I have always manged to get them out (and in ) with a hammer and a block of wood or a metal item
franc123,
Oct 24, 3:00pm
What sort of bearing is it? Conventional taper roller bearings with detachable cones dont normally require press gear, you can carefully punch the cups in and out again. A press makes a nicer job of it but it's not compulsory.
kazbanz,
Oct 24, 3:11pm
Henderson Valley automotive
wouldes,
Oct 24, 4:00pm
Thankyou all for you help. Dremel and a hammer got it done, not pretty but it worked, will freeze the shell and hope it goes in easy.
mrcat1,
Oct 24, 4:08pm
Why would you use a Dremel on removing bearings on a trailer hub and stub? you only need a good hammer and punch, bearing will fall out when hub comes off the stub, just need to drive each cup out with the punch, then carefully start the cups in the hub and slowly tap them back in with hammer and punch, when they seat the noise from the punch changes so you know they are seated properly.
cattleshed,
Oct 24, 4:10pm
This is where you start. What are you dealing with? Tapered rollers are usual but is it two ball races with a preloaded spacer instead. The tightening procedure are as different as chalk and cheese! A mild steel punch. Care. Wood is not a great idea. Grease needs to be loaded into the brgs. Make sure you know what you are doing as lives are at stake!
VVVVVVVVVVVVV
wouldes,
Oct 24, 4:24pm
Just Conventional taper roller bearing, but the cups would not move, i am not a fan of beating things with a hammer so a smal cut with a dremel and a few light taps got it done.
xs1100,
Oct 24, 6:52pm
i always use a socket set extention and a hammer works fine. get a proper brg packer from BNT makes it do much easier. when installing new race get a grinder and just cut a edge out and use to punch new race in
ian1990,
Oct 29, 10:50pm
I had some 30 year old trailer hubs and bought a Bearing Race and Seal Driver Kit to get the races back in. As others have said, just tap them out with a flat end round punch.
did you get it done i hit the shell in with old clean taper bearing and warm the housing with a 2$ shop gas torch. They seem ok gor what they are solong as you know the operational danges of butan gas . one warm one frozen = it will go in easy . you go for a drive and recheck bearings. play with wheel on to feel tilt play or non . you got to pull the splitpin twice like this buy you want it correct just play free.
cattleshed,
Oct 30, 8:02am
It is not about beating anything. Correct tools and process. Gentle, taps and keeping the cup at an even height throughout the manoeuvre both out and in. Brass punch or mild steel NEVER hardened steel such as a socket etc as you can damage surfaces much like you never bang two hammers together. Everything ultra clean prior to reassembly.
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