The missus Maxima has a bung fuel gauge, reading full 100% of the time. There appears to be no low fuel light either. After nearly running out the other night, I've decided this is a priority repair.
I gather it's a fairly common issue on these cars and thought one of you guys might've run across it before. Is it more likely to be the gauge cluster at fault, or the sending unit?
intrade,
Jul 29, 10:38am
well why dont you unplug the sender unit and see what happens . you would want to know what resistance is empty half and full, you then mimick the sender at the plug ad see if the gauge reacts. you also mesure if you have a short to ground etc testing is how you find faults.
strobo,
Jul 29, 10:51am
Always go to the sender unit first . done one earlier this week with incorrect gauge levels, just pulled the plug at the tank and cleaned it !,The resistance at the tank sender should be proportional to the gauge .Go figure :-) It's not hard to remove a sender unit and test the potentiometer with a multi meter ,The float arm could also be stuck up too.Rarely is it a faulty gauge.If its is a late model fangle it may have to be recalibrated at a dealership.No Low fuel light is indicative of it stucko on full 100% reading
2sheddies,
Jul 29, 10:56am
Cheers, I'll make the sender unit my first port of call then. If I don't have to change the cluster, all the better, as then it won't bugger up the mileage.
kazbanz,
Jul 29, 11:56am
Yep easy way is unplug the sender.
nzmax,
Jul 29, 12:44pm
From maxima.org site, this is for the US Maxima but im sure the diagnosis feature works on ours also using the trip meter button. Page 122 of the manual http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/EL.pdf If the gauges dont sit similarly to the picture, the cluster needs to be replaced someone posted, so guess its the gauge thats faulty.
if you wonder what consult is thats the factory nissan scantool
strobo,
Jul 29, 2:46pm
HOW TO ALTERNATE DIAGNOSIS MODE From Factory Service Manuals (FSM) including a section on how to alternate diagnostic mode I can't C&P that section here as it has schematics to the instructions but it is in the link Ive posted ;-) use this procedure first before seeing about a dealer plugin!
1. Turn ignition switch to ON and change odo/trip meter to “TRIP”. 2. Turn ignition switch to OFF. 3. Turn ignition switch to ON when pushing odo/trip meter switch.
4. Release odo/trip meter switch 1 second after ignition switch is turned ON. 5. Push odo/trip meter switch more than three times within 7 seconds.
6. All odo/trip meter segments should be turned on. Gauges should all go to center position. https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals I now concede with others ,the cluster maybe likely and see Poll booth on google suggests 95% it's in the cluster with dry bad solder joints at the large square resistors ! but leave the smaller components alone they may get damaged. .But all the same do the ground work first starting at the tank,pull the potentiometer out and plug it back in ,moving the float up and down it will work normally at the gauge but the moment it is installed back into the tank the problem will reoccur at the gauge . this is a common find with the nissan according to the stooges. a bit odd and none iv'e come across like that !just food for thought! also check ,fuel pump deliv pressure, filters , if its over 10,000kms id fit new pump,clean the elect plug,and some basic checks fuel sensor /earth/ there is also a unified control module mentioned I see! The will be no MIL in this system!
strobo,
Jul 29, 3:05pm
Best to out work the cluster to the likes of parott in chch if none locally ,they will also reset the cluster correctly. http://www.eparrott.co.nz/
strobo,
Jul 29, 3:11pm
Your'e lagging behind somewhat but not that far tho ;-)
strobo,
Jul 29, 3:18pm
#9 correction , if over 100,000 kms -new fuel pump
2sheddies,
Jul 29, 3:29pm
I'm fiddling with it now. Unplugging the sender brings about no change at the dash. It remains at F. Float seems okay, so it's looking more and more likely F on this gauge means it's f***ed!
2sheddies,
Jul 29, 3:54pm
I know that the tank currently only has roughly 15 to 20 litres in it, and the ohm range for the sending unit at that level, according to the technical guff is 80 to 80.3. I get a reading of 78.0, so now I'm pretty darn confident, coupled with the fact that when I ran the self test at the gauge, and it was reading well below the specified mark, that the cluster is at fault.
utwo,
Jul 29, 4:26pm
You're right that it's a fairly common issue on those cars. Mine failed with two months remaining on the factory warranty. A new instrument cluster was fitted.
2sheddies,
Jul 29, 4:38pm
Nissan have always had trouble making reliable gauges, so I suspected ther gauge in the first place, but you never know. I remember the 80's models like Vanette, Navara and Terrano etc with those shitty plastic needles that would bend in the heat, and then get stuck on the face of the dial.
Then there was the erratic rev counters in A32 Maxima/Cefiro and probably other models also.
franc123,
Jul 30, 3:47am
Lol yeah Nissan tachos were a joke for a long time. You could tell from the behaviour of the needle that things were not right. As far as the fuel gauge is concerned, as a last check I'd make certain there was not a short to ground on the signal wire before condemning the cluster.
intrade,
Dec 15, 10:40am
so at least your now not replacing the sender unit if it is fine i would fill it up and see if the sender reads the full spec, then tick it off as ok since its your car . i would also test the wiring on cluster if you have specs there i doubt there is a computer in the harness to the cluster so be them ohm readings there also i would say.
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