Do we have a problem still with the seals failing with the new fuel and causing leaks. (in older vehicles) I have a 96 Townace with 2c motor and wondering if I should try an additive to protect the seals.
mrcat1,
Oct 17, 2:06am
Wait for Intrade, he will tell you that you need to add some additive otherwise all diesels will self destruct, i'm pretty sure he holds shares in the additive company though, either that or the last great prophet of doom.
mrfxit,
Oct 17, 2:33am
Mmmmmm interesting point there
The pump started leaking recently, slightly (only just) enough to be noticed on the suspension beam. Since that was noticed a few months ago, I have been adding a little bit of Morays additive to each part fill (correct amount per litre) & the leak HAS stopped
ladatrouble,
Oct 17, 2:43am
x1
If you used rubber seals in a diesel pump they would fail pretty well straight away - that's why they don't use rubber for seals.
mugenb20b,
Oct 17, 3:29am
That's the additive I used to use when I had diesel vehicles. My old Toyota had a small fuel leak at the top of the pump, and with an additive, the leak slowed down. Eventually, I got around to replacing the leaking seal, and continued using the additive (more for its lubricating properties than anything else).
mugenb20b,
Oct 17, 3:30am
Wanna bet!
mm12345,
Oct 17, 4:03am
By the time the seals are going around the pump covers, chances are that other seals are getting past it.There's a seal on the pump drive shaft, which if it leaks will allow sump oil to get in to the pump, or will allow diesel to leak into the sump. The shaft is often scored, and if so, gets replaced as a matter of course (could possibly be fixed with a speedy sleeve, but hardly worth it as new shafts aren't terribly expensive) Pull the pump and get it recond. As far as additives go, I suppose they might be able to offer a temporary fix. There's some evidence that plain cheap 2T two stroke oil may have a benefit in pump lubrication when using low-sulphur diesel.Suggested ratio is about 300:1. If you wonder why it costs quite a lot to recondition a pump, here's picturesin 101 easy steps of how to dis/assemble a VE type pump: http://gnarlodious.com/Vanagon/Bosch_Pump/-Rebuild There's links on that site to "quick fixes" to accessible seals.
mugenb20b,
Oct 17, 5:24am
Leaking.
mm12345,
Oct 17, 5:39am
If you look at the link I posted above, there's more to a recond than just replacing $30 worth of seals. The pump should cost $600 - $800 to recond.Toyota dealer will send the pump to a specialist (the same one you can deal with directly), and add at least 25% to above price - probably more. The labour cost for the dealership workshop is that it's often a b@st@rd to remove and refit pumps - it takes a few hours, you might need to remove and reinstall radiator etc just to get access,but you don't need to be a genius mechanic to do it, just prepared to get dirty, read a manual, and be methodical, clean, and careful.
mm12345,
Oct 17, 5:47am
Partly right.Apart from lowering sulphur, the mix of components in the diesel changed.The low sulphur diesel is less "aggressive" on seals.If the car was run old old fuel for a while, the seals swelled up where they were (no problem), then gradually after running on low sulphur diesel, the seals start shrinking (now this is a problem) - then leaking. But composition of seals will also have changed.The new seals may not be the same compound as the old ones were.Before trying any temporary repair, quick seal replacement etc, talk to a trustworthy specialist.
mugenb20b,
Oct 17, 6:19am
Are you saying that 'one' can rebulid an injector pump at home!
mm12345,
Oct 17, 7:12am
heh heh - why. hell no. With reasonable skills & tools, You can remove a pump, take it to a specialist, pick it up. and refit it.That will probably save you close to $1,000 (labour & the margin that a dealership will add on to the cost for recond - work that they don't do, but send out). When I look at this: http://gnarlodious.com/Vanagon/Bosch_Pump/-Rebuild my eyes glaze over.I would pass on attempting to pull something like that apart and getting it to run again.
mrfxit,
Oct 17, 7:18am
LOL pussy . ;-) Used to rebuild 4cyl car engines & motor mowers on the kitchen table . Rebuilt jag engines in the garage
Tho . >> "Rebuilding" is definitelyvery different to Reconditioning
mm12345,
Oct 17, 7:50am
Same.With years of muckin' 'round, you get to understand stuff, what each part does, how it should look, how to check it.If you pulled diesel injector pumps to pieces routinely (and had the gear needed), then you (or I) would probably eventually "get it".But they are complex - and "learning from your own mistakes" is a bit expensive.The special workshop ventilation system, and about 1/2 million $ worth of bosch test gear that the injection specialist has - and I don't have at home - is added incentive to pay the $ to get someone who's done it before to do the work.
mrfxit,
Oct 17, 7:59am
Mmmm that bit about "how it should look" is very important when combined with "what it looked like before I pulled it apart". Often had to figure out how to put something back together by the "wear marks" & casting marks/ stains etc & then somethings ARE simply meant to "be that way around"
Loved working on the early jags like that, everything had "it's place" & it either fitted correctly or not at all.
aj254,
Oct 17, 8:11am
Sorry but I have to disagree, with toyota (cambelt) diesels at least if the shaft seal goes, diesel will leak down around the cambelt area. The injector pump is mounted on the side of the engine and driven by the cambelt.
mm12345,
Oct 17, 10:43am
Yes, in a 2c toyota, oil contamination is not an issue.I forgot how crazy these motors are.So when you pull the pump, you'll also do the belt, altogether a nice way to spend a day.
Have you considered what might eventually happen with an "interference" diesel engine with a belt driven pump (and camshaft)if a little and unseen bit of diesel leaks continuously in to the timing cover!
A good reason to avoid this engine series completely, but if unfortunate enough to own one, with leaky external pump seals, either get the thing fixed properly, or cut your losses now and drive it to the scrap yard before you need to tow it.
scoobeey,
Oct 17, 12:08pm
No doom theory very true.I use flashlube and didnt for 3 fills and seals went .so swear by it
intrade,
Oct 18, 6:09am
hello you should know by now poster 1 the problem is ulsd- ultra low sulfur diesel and the problem lies in the quality of the raw oil, the poorer the quality of the raw product the more hydrogen is required to bring it down to ultra.lowsulfur levels. plenty info worldwide on the web about this problem, additionally we all know that nz will purchase the worst crude oil at lowest price then sell it at the highest possibile price at pumps. I do not own no shares in nothing . You can use winns-edt that claims to prevent seal shrinkage . Ultra low sulfur diesel also has loads less lubrication then old sulfur diesel so pump wear occures faster then normalwithout any additive . cheapest additive is waste motor-oil cleand with a centrifuge,( do not add untreated waste motor oil to your diesel and only ad wmo to old non electroic diesel (at your own risk).
aj254,
Jan 2, 1:48pm
1988 corolla, 1c engine,290,000kms before we stuffed the injector pump runnig it on old fish'n'chip oil the consistency of peanut butter,'92 caldina, 2c, 220,000 when we sold it, 93 corolla, 2c, 360,000+,'94 caldina, 2c, 220,000 when sold, '98 corolla, 3c-e, 220,000 and then shattered the cam shaft due to being driven with at least one pedal flat to the floor for 50 kms a day, 2004 corolla with a 3c-e, 190,000 and counting, 1992 camry, 2c-t, 300,000+, then sold the motor, 4 different hiluxes with 2L's and 3L's and between 220,000 and 410,000kms. None of these have had any issues with injector pumps or reliability except the 98 corolla. Don't see why you have a problem with them. Also all except the oldest corolla we ran on low sulpher diesel, still noworries.
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